petrv

My brembo blanks have only about 1500miles on it and they warped. All the time it looked ok, but one day I had to stop from 140kmh (95mph). I had to stop hard with ABS working to complete stop. From that day the rotors are warped. But it's warped only when the rotors are hot. When they are cold, no warp is there. I have Textar pads. Any advice? I heard thet Brembo blanks are the best...

petrv

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If they're warped, they're not just warped when they're hot. LOL...

I think it's possible you have some excess friction material on the rotors from your panic stop. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That's why I don't know what to do. I cannot return the rotors to the shop, because when cold, the rotors are ok. I can't even resurface them. So what should I do? Try to change the pads for the old stock ones that I still have?

Elkins911

3 questions for you....

#1: how are your rotors warped when hot, but not when cold.

#2: why cont you resurface them?

#3: how do you know that they are warped? are you sure your reading all the right symptoms.... because, when rotors are warped they are warped all the time.

Cottonwoodz

Sounds like a cooling problem with the rotors. Check and see if your calipers are sticking when they get hot.

rjr162

all it takes is one hard stop. and they don't *all* have to warp. I've had only 1 warp before

kotetu

rjr the problem is he is saying they are warped only when hot, when the rotors cool down they no longer appear warped.

Sooooo..... it's likely some other problem, as previously stated, something like pad material on the rotor during breaking.

rjr162

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kotetu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">rjr the problem is he is saying they are warped only when hot, when the rotors cool down they no longer appear warped.

Sooooo..... it's likely some other problem, as previously stated, something like pad material on the rotor during breaking.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, I understand that, but I was just stating to his post. Also, was any symptoms really posted? That would help. It's possible it could be something like a ball joint going out, and during stopping your suspension is moving just ever so slightly giving you that feel.

Mover

Change your brake fluid (if you haven't already). I've never used the
brake pads you mentioned so I don't know how good they are.

When you say they are warped only when 'hot', do you mean after
a few minutes of normal driving or after braking from more than 100+ km/hr ?



Modified by Mover at 12:20 AM 7/27/2003

twisted_240

take the brakes off. feel for any inconsistences. clean the brakes, change the fluid, and check your pads. You could have them turned (take off a thousandth of an inch or something to that effect to take off some "bad rotor". and then clean them with brake cleaner to take off exess brake shavings, while your at it you can wipe it clean with some oil to help prevent rust. also look at this before you use "warped" so freely. http://www.stoptech.com/whitep...h.htm Just some friendly advice, and is worth a look to help diagnose your particular "warping" issue. Have fun, and I hope you get that fixed, brakes are not fun when they have issues.

Honda318dx

Just make your brakes smoke a lot, then the shacking will go away.. Or just sand your rotors w/ some sand paper..

del_parker

yeah, just do several 100-0 stops and you'll be set.

laughinxxx

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda318dx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just make your brakes smoke a lot, then the shacking will go away.. Or just sand your rotors w/ some sand paper..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Surprisingly this works. Just fly through second gear and nail the brakes. This gets kind of addictive though, so don't say I didn 't warn you.

petrv

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Elkins911 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">3 questions for you....

#1: how are your rotors warped when hot, but not when cold.

#2: why cont you resurface them?

#3: how do you know that they are warped? are you sure your reading all the right symptoms.... because, when rotors are warped they are warped all the time.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I am from Europe, so that's why my answer comes so late...anyway, when I go with cold brakes, it decelerates smoothly, my stering wheel doesn't move any way. When I brake more, so the brakes get hot, my steering wheel starts to vibrate during braking. That's why I assume they "warp" only when hot. When I just cruise and dont brake a lot, the brakes cool down and there is no vibrations to my steering wheel. So I assumed that when the rotor is hot, its material expands and thus the rotor warps and my steering wheel vibrates. When it cools down, the material goes back gto it's "original size". It is really nothing with my steering/ball joints etc. Just a day ago, my rotors were even hotter that in this panic stop and didn't vibrate.

The brakes perform well even if they are hot and the steering wheel vibrates.

I looked on my pads....nothing strange on them. Then I looked on my rotors and there are some dark places, looks like from my pads when the ABS was working. Or it could be some blue color because of some local overheat during ABS.

I will try to make some pics of the pads and rotors.


Modified by petrv at 12:46 PM 7/27/2003

petrv

So here I come with the pics:

The ventilation of the brakes seems to be ok:


I don't know how, but the dark shapes, that I've been talking about are gone. There are only some circles:







On the inner pad, there is some "valey", I dont know how to say it exactly. The darker shape is a place with no material touching the rotor. Like it is ripped out the pad. The outer one has also some small ripped area, but not so large as the inner one.

petrv

So, here I am again, now I have some new expiriences from the test drive. As someone here said, I went to do some 100kmh-0 hard stops. I made about 15 of the stops and the steering wheel didn't vibrate! So any hard braking from 100kmh (60mph) doesn't make the steering wheel vibrate. I made really hard stops, the rotors were all blue ;-), smoke from pads with braking fade...still no vibrations, even if I tried few 120kmh-0 (80mph-0) stops. I said WOW! I went home and let the brakes cool down to the ambient temp. Then I started again to make some 150kmh-0 (100mph) stop. Firtst I braked just a little, the brakes were very smooth. But when I started to brake from the 150kmh speed, at the end of braking the steering wheel started to vibrate, but not as much as before this set of 100-0 stops. When I went about 500m without braking, the vibrations were gone again (the brakes cooled). So what to do now?

Honda318dx

Do it again, its just film transfer, and you are breaking the pads in now, excellent Job!! Rotors don't warp, they just feel it, and its film transfer..

petrv

Thanks for all info guys, I didn't know that pads bedding is made that "hard" way. I made it really not so hard I assumed they are bedded ok. I am gonna make some other 100-0 hard stops and see what happens. This all is new stuff for me so I really appreciate your help. Hope this helps also others...

What do you think about look of my pads (that dark areas)?

rjr162

rotors are made of a softer material now... as brake pads use semi-metalic since they can't use aspestous, and the harder pad on a harder rotor makes squeeking... which the manufacturers figured customers wouldn't like. Anymore, rotors will pretty much wear out as fast a the pads depending on the type of pad used. Really sucks

petrv

Can someone please explain me, how can the steering wheel vibrate just because of the pads? If the rotor would stay flat at high temperatures and only the pads would make "something wrong", I thing that I could feel only periodical more and less braking, not any vibrations on my steering wheel. But in my case the braking power is constant and good, only my steering wheel vibrates left and right. That makes sense to me that the rotor must be warped at this high temps.

RacingLude

Remove the dust shield and make sure the lugs nuts all have the same torque.

The dust shield traps heat on the back side of the rotor and makes it hotter than the front side. And different torque amounts on your lugs nuts will allow the rotor to expand unevenly.

petrv

Today I made a new testing.....a few 100-0 stops and then some higher speeds. It is interesting that if I brake hard from very high speeds (180kmh = 120mph), the steering wheel vibrates just a little. On the other hand when I brake soft from lower speed (140kmh = 90mph), the steering wheel vibrates more. From 100kmh (60mph) again no vibrations no matter how hard I brake. Interesting.

petrv

Today I gave the rotors tobe resurfaced....I will keep you updated. I put the old rotors on and it's really a pain - it vibrates like hell.

Mover

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by petrv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Today I gave the rotors tobe resurfaced....I will keep you updated. I put the old rotors on and it's really a pain - it vibrates like hell.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Did you ever manage to remove high speed vibrations ?

CHK4TIX

when my car gets back on the road i think im going to try this, i have had a wobble for ever

petrv

Since this thread has been picked up again......I have resurfaced my rotors, but no help, still the same situation. Vibrations get worse with speed and temperature. Anyway, today wrote some guy from the shop I bought the rotors from and he told me that THEY WILL REPLACE IT WITH NEW ONES - NO CHARGE!!!!! I am soooo happy, I will take it there tomorrow. But there is another problem....what to do to NOT WARP them again???? This is my big deal, I really dont know.