holmesnmanny

Ok so I'm still working on this swap. I just don't understand what the problem is.

I have literally replaced almost everything in this engine. The problem is that is bogs when accelerating. It started to do it real bad and I had the jdm lower half IM so i bought an h22a4 bottom half which is identical to h22a1 and pulled the plugs and completely cleaned it out. This cleared massive hesitation it had developed. I have not taken it for smog tho I might just to confirm it's the clutch.

What basically happens now and this has gotten progressively worse over time is that when I accelerate it will take off but the rpm's will ever so slightly jump. It's weird because I know my clutch is going out as it slips a lil when going into gear, but I can't imagine the clutch going out so small that it barely jumps the rpms like this. However, it really does it when I go WOT at low rpms. The speedometer works fine and doesn't show any sign of jumpage at all, tho. However when I put my f22a4 tranny on I did spill oil into the bell housing when I turned it over and I'm just wondering if somehow this stuff made its way into the clutch housing and maybe this is my problem.

List of things checked/tested/replaced.
cap and rotor new
plugs new
egr solenoid tested good
egr vacuum control device tested good but still replaced with new
egr valve new
distributor new
ignition switch replaced
TPS replaced and calibrated
map sensor replaced and tested for proper voltage
fuel injectors tested all the same i think 2.3
resistor box tested and tests fine all the same
cam timing is spot on, haven't checked crank timing but can't imagine its off

for some reason it's hard to check ignition timing(yes connector is jumped to check timing)since it seems to want to move a bit AND my flywheel is rusted at the marks, i've researched this and have found someone that said that dizzy rotor shaft having a lil play could be a problem but i just find it hard to believe that my new dizzy is bad tho the shaft does have a lil play in it

iat new
ect new
fuel pressure tested with OEM honda fuel pressure gauge and perfect with no drop
power steering switch new
iacv cleaned out and idle seems fairly fine
vacuum tested everything and tests fine throughout no blockages and no leaks...just perfect vacuum while idling and revving
exhaust system completely brand new including catalytic converter
tested with old ecu, L11 ecu and another L11 ecu. Does it with all of them.

tested egr while driving with it T'ed and ran through the firewall to a vacuum gauge on seat and egr seems to work fine when accelerating at steady 3 or 4 in vacuum.

alternator tested and confirmed perfect.
knock sensor is new from Kragen(this actually cleared up vibration on startup)
fuel filter new

anything else I will update as I remember

Any comments on this especially if anyone can confirm could be clutch problem would be greatly appreciated.

jdm_rb20

Tell me more about this. A faulty clutch will let the rpm's rise while the car is not picking up speed. Is this what you are trying to explain.

Forgive me if you already know this, but to explain: A clutch directly connects the power of the engine to the transmission.

When the shifter is IN GEAR, and your foot is OFF the clutch:

-A good clutch will have a direct linear relationship: as rpm's rise, speed will rise.
-A bad clutch (will not be linear: rpm's will rise, but acceleration will be almost flat/non-existant. It's like spinning bicycly pedals while the chain is off the back wheel...that back wheel just is not gonna spin.

-A half-bad clutch will show itself more at WOT because there is more HP and TQ applied to the drivetrain. At the half-bad clutch's "grip-limit", clutch is gonna slip and the flywheel is gonna spin freely without getting the transmission to accelerate.

(btw, a half-bad clutch can quickly turn into a bad clutch and leave you stranded....all rev but no-gogo)..

--TJ

holmesnmanny

What basically happens is when I got WOT at low rpm's, the car will start to take off but as it passes every 800 rpms or so the rpms will jump just slightly as the car kinda jerks, it's relational. The speedometer doesn't do anything wrong, it's steady. I am certain my clutch is going out as when I changed gears it does slip. BUT, the clutch isn't really bad. The rpm's don't go insanely bad as far as for slippage. That's why I think that the clutch could be bad combined with possible oil residue inside. Like I said, tho, the slippage is minimal but it drives me nuts cause it seems like it's an ignition issue or a misfire of some sort, but I'm fairly confident my ignition is fine.

I have a new clutch kit that I was planning on installing along with buying a lsd jdm from hmotors, but I wanted to get it bar'ed before I did that. I'm gonna go for a test smog tomorrow and see if it passes.

jdm_rb20

Well now I understand what you were describing. I suspect something in the timing...does it miss even slightly when you are idling?

My Nissan also has a little "burp" when accelerating but I also notice it while idling...

holmesnmanny

Yes, it actually does have a miss, bit it's off and on. It's really weird. There isn't anything that I haven't tested 'though. I just don't know what to make of this issue.

jdm_rb20

Double-check your TPS calibration to make sure it is spot on...that sounds similar to other things I have read. I wish I knew a way to tell you how to check your ignitor and plug wires without buying a new one, but the plug wires would be my second guess and, in theory, I might even assume that a weak ignitor might be related......but I would be more likely to believe that one of your plug wires is causing the miss/burp.

I have had MAJOR driveability issues in my wifes neon because of one bad plug wire, and strangely it was intermittent....just come and go. Luckily, it caused a big enough miss to cause a specific cylinder misfire troublecode, and I was able to swap that plug wire with another and .....drumroll.....the troublecode would then show up on the other cylinder..confirming the plug wire was the problem.

holmesnmanny

TPS is perfect. I've rechecked it so many times it aint funny. It's also new dorman from rockauto. .5 exactly closed and 4.5 or so open.

The plug wires are NGK brand new from rockauto. I have also tested them and haven't found any issues.

holmesnmanny

Hey dude, one thing I forgot to mention, and I think it's fairly substantial, was that this issue does not appear to occur when I rev or floor the car in neutral.

It only does it when the car is in gear. That's the main reason I believe it to be clutch related.

Let me know what you think.

jdm_rb20

Now would be a great time to have a chipped ecu. you could datalog a drive and look for the "blip" on the sensors.

holmesnmanny

I think ima do just that. I'm pick up a p72 or p28 and take it down to a motorsports and have them figure out wuts up. I just wish I could know for sure it's the clutch so I can just do that sht without having to pay someone to troubleshoot something that I should have figured out by now.

jdm_rb20

The only flaw to that plan is that most "basemaps" are not copies of a factory ecu map. If you caught a good deal on a chipped ecu, you still have to shell out $hundreds for a dyno-tune by a shop.

Just loading up a basemap you found on the net will probably run worse than a little blip you are having


just thinking out loud....check your timing a third time...If you are running too advanced, then your knock sensor would make the ECU retard your timing for a split second, and that might cause a sudden splitsecond surge in power....longshot at best...but that is the kind of theory that I am following....."something is spontaneously INCREASING your power"..(right?)

--TJ

--TJ

jdm_rb20

I just re-read your first post (about your timing and your dizzy having a little play)...perhaps there is a connection to your timing after all...That was just a random shot-in-the-dark on my last post...lol

I only said "triplecheck timing" bc I remembered you said you had already checked everything..lol

holmesnmanny

Yeah, well what I can do is have them turn off the egr system and/or other stuff like knock sensor to see wut the problem is.

holmesnmanny

hey dude, i just realized that I forgot to mention that my crank pulley got busted up pretty bad during my installation process( i only thought about this cause of that thread u just posted lol). Any chance this is causing my problems due to either unbalance or knock sensor malfuntion due to sound waves or something ?

jdm_rb20

Nooowwww you are thinking creatively and that is good . However, I don't have enough personal experience to give you any input. . In theory, that series of events sound like they make sense. In my limited experience, I alway seem to chip up my crank pulleys during installs but I never notice a regular pattern of idle jump "about every 800 rpms." So that makes me think that the unbalanced crank pulley won't cause your issue.

My best shot-n-tha-dark guess would be check/fix that timing until you get it right. Part of my motivation on that theory is based on the fact that you stated it isn't set perfectly. I have been using hondata for a couple months now and I have learned, simply put: "a certain amount of throttle x a certain rpm level = a specific timing adjustment."

Try driving your car with a STEADY amount of throttle (20%, then 30%, then 40, etc) in 2nd gear. Then tell me if it "blips" routinely through the rpm range at 20% throttle? at 30% throttle? etc? Try to be STEADY throughout as much of the rpm range as possible. Take pen/paper to take notes and post your results pls? I want to see if there is a pattern.

in the pic below, the numbers 1-10 represent throttle in tenths....1=10%, 2=20%, etc. Match your throttle level with the current rpms (at that moment), and you get the ECU's programmed timing adjustment for that specific combination....if your base timing is off, then all of these numbers are gonna be off by that same difference.

holmesnmanny

First thing I'm gonna do is pull the timing belt and do the tensioner conversion with the kit I already have but have not installed and swap out the pulley with the one I already bought that is not messed up but haven't installed. All this obviously won't cost a dime. Then I will see if that helps and will look at the timing again and see if it's easier to set. Perhaps the timing on the crank is off somehow or something. I will report back after this. Then I can proceed to the shop and pony up money to have to have someone look at it and will look at what you have suggested in the last post.

thanks again.

jdm_rb20

What pulley? I am looking for a nice looking OEM size crank pulley.

holmesnmanny

JDM oem P13 i bought from someone on here.