5speeder

so my buddy's usd h22 motor did 163whp and 154ftq, set is a stock h22 motor with dc headers, 2.25 piping exhaust and ebay intake. Does that seem low for a h22? compression test did 200+ in all cylinders, no leaks or anything. I'm wondering what can be done to make a bit more power? whats more worth it, doing a skunk2 intake manifold with 3 angle valve job and match port for smoother air flow, or a set of stage 2 cams? He can only do one or the other due to not having enough money. but we are thinking about upgrading to a 2.5 or 2.75 exhaust pipings and getting rid of the cat. he doesnt want to do any block work because he doesnt have time to take apart the money. what would you guys do with about a 900 dollar budget to get more power but staying NA, no boost or nitrious.

AznBlueBoy

That's about right for his mods.
With $900, I wold get a hytech replica header, a 3" cold air intake and 3" exhaust.
The mods you have listed there have very minimal gains. Next to nothing.

5speeder

i thought most of the hytec headers are for civic swaps? lol i dont look up h series alot, my buddy just wanted me to post this, can you guys send links for where i can get those kind of items, i see a bunch of the hytec headers on ebay but do they all fit h22 in prelude shells? i thought maybe they would fit different in civic and prelude shells.

bdmlilburn

chipped ecu+tune after a cam and valve job should increase your numbers

zuptidi

with 900 bucks i would definetly get the Vibrant header ROSKORACING sells, 550$ shipped and it made about 6more whp then the replica. and a 3" exhaust

Here's the header test
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ogQWF...ature=youtu.be

Before: 184.1hp 132.1tq
After: 190.3hp 135.5tq

You can get it from
rosko racing . com

5speeder

okay, if you guys give me info, consider it ina 95 prelude body with a full size radiator. so hopefully most of these headers have clearance for them, do you guys think the powersteering belt makes a difference on the dyno? my buddy has the power steering belt to the a/c and then to the pulley, so its a long belt, a/c dont work so i think he should use a smaller belt just from powersteering to pulley, will that help out? lol also, what do you guys think about tire size, hes got on his stock rim, 205-60-15, its originally suppose to be 205-55-15, would that make a difference on how much faster it can pull on the streets with smaller tires? i think that's kinda low on the dyno numbers for an h22, good torque though. one more question, do you guys know why it maybe grinding 2nd gear? alot of times it feels like it goes into gear but sometimes grinds a bit or just rev when we gas it on 2nd, and we would have to pop it back out and put it back in, it only does this once in a while when we shift to 2nd gear while slowly driving it or trying to beat on it, any ideas? and sorry for the newbie questions.

Rad Racing

The dyno numbers are fine. What makes you think the numbers are low?

5speeder

well most of the h22 i've seen dyno do at least 170, i suppose thats not bad, i would assume that h22 preludes run pretty decent by my buddy got smoked at least 2-3 car lenths by a gsr integra with only IHE, doest that seem right for a 95 prelude with usd h22 with IHE?

q16racer

i made 173whp with a h22a and ran 97mph in the 1/4. dyno numbers arent the end all be all of how fast a car is.

5speeder

opinions on skunk2 intake manifold? it'll prob go with the hi end tri y header with 2.5 inch pipings with no cat. I've read good reviews on the hi end tri y headers, and skunk2 on h22 makes good power with good bolt ons, bettter than the stock butterfly valve manifolds. I hope that set up can at least make him break into the 170's.

zuptidi

dude get the vibrant header, for 100$ more you get 6whp more. That's a deal for $/hp ratio. Go 3" exhaust also

540dude

iTrader: (1)

don't go 3" unless you want to be a ricer... not even making 200hp he doesn't need more than 2.25" maybe 2.5" if you plan on adding more power

typemismatch

I used to think that too, someone here corrected me with a link to an FAQ article. The stock H22 apparently responds well to 3" exhausts.

Edit:
3" exhaust dyno results
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/3%22-catback-exhaust-stock-jdm-h22a-dyno-2197695/

q16racer

good luck making power with your car!

540dude

iTrader: (1)

5speeder

thanks guys for the inputs, and i think 3 inch is perfect for a 2.2 liter motor, well, a more beefy 2.2 would be perfect, i think 2.5 inch with IHE should be good, hopefully my buddy will break 170whp and lets hope he can beat that gsr next time lol. I think my buddy is going with the vibrant headers, they had pretty good reviews. set up now, dcsport header, 2.25 inch pipings, ebay intake, did 164whp, new set up my bud is looking at, aem v2, vibrant header, 2.5 inch pipings with no cat, skunk2 intake manifold, i say that new setup can do about 15whp gain right? so hoping for 180whp?

egjdmh22a

Your buddy nneds more time to learn how to drive if he can not beat a gs-r integra. Do not cheap out on parts. Buy a real race header, no cat and 3 inch exhaust and some tuning on a chipped ecu.

5speeder

i dont think learning how to drive it is a big deal, considering that they both went off of a 2nd gear roll and the gsr pulled him right off the line. there feel like theres a lag before he hits vtec, both cars were rolling 20mph and after 3 honks the gsr took off, it was 3rd gear vtec when my buddy's car started to catch up, but not enough, they did a total of 3 runs, 2 on rolling 2nd gear and 1 on rolling first gear. No double clutch or powershift, just honk and floor they did. And i dont think an h22 is suppose to lose 2-3 cars to a gsr integra.

typemismatch

$900 ... hmmm

Chipped P28 $150
Hondata Heatsheild IM gasket - $40
Re-route FITV coolant lines - free
Gut IAB butterflies - free [don't drop the screws down the IM] - do this while you change the IM gasket
EGR block off plate $10 on eGay - or free if you can make one.
Fresh plugs - $20-30
KTeller crush bent 3" SS exhaust [more like a 2.75"] $240
True cold air intake - $150-250
Test pipe - $75?

Dyno tune $300?

Tuners can work with a chipped OBD1 Honda ECU. Hondata and Neptune are nice if you want to make adjustments on your own. You don't need this with a basic NA setup.

Good for ~190whp

BergRacing21

not trying to knock anyone, or say I'm a GREAT driver...but i've beat 5th gen ludes and GS-R Integras and a EK Hatch with a LS with my Prelude S (F22A1) with only I/H/E. So it does take some driving. (again the people i raced may of been idiots...) Not hating just saying driving is a mod people often overlook when beefing up their cars.

BergRacing21

this setup would definitely put him in his goal ranges, and it's definitely not a bad way to spend $900 dollars.

typemismatch

If you had a bit more $$$ ... closer to $2K ... I'd go a different route

Pull the H22

H23/F22 crank $50-200 for crank used
H23/F22 rods $100-200 for used
ARP main studs $200?
ARP rod bolts $200?
Fresh rings $200
Fresh bearings $200
Timing belt $100
H23 tensioner conversion $125
Chipped P28 $150
Machine shop short block assembly $500?
Head studs $200
Head gasket $100

Dyno tune $300

With USDM pistons, should be good for ~225whp

typemismatch

Also:
Cut the balance shaft belt off - free
Drop the A/C belt - free
Manual steering conversion - free-ish [a couple dollar in clamps and hose]
Drop the P/S belt - free
Delete cruise control - free
Delete A/C - A/C pump, piping, condenser - free

BergRacing21

haha you should be this guys mechanic you'd make some money!

typemismatch

Bit bored today, and tired of people asking the same question

I know we have a NEWB/nOOb thread that's something like "Hi, I'm 15 and my parents bought me a 'lude, cause I got my permit. So I'm cool, what can I do to make my car faster?"

Ummm ... how about a tune-up?