EGR Valve Replacement Tech Guide
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EGR Valve Replacement Tech Guide
Anyone happen to have a write-up on this or know where I can find one? I need to replace the EGR valve on my '98 Prelude. Thanks.
-Paula
-Paula
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Re: EGR Valve Replacement Tech Guide (paulab)
Well Honda would always have them, but would be expensive. I would check ebay and see if theres any. And maybe post in the wanted section, maybe somebody has one.
And to change it its simple, just dont strip the screws taking it off. Take the two nuts off. Disconnect the sensor. Disconnect the hose coming off it. And thats it. To swap the new one in just do reverse. Maybe clean up some of the stuff in there while you have it off also.
And to change it its simple, just dont strip the screws taking it off. Take the two nuts off. Disconnect the sensor. Disconnect the hose coming off it. And thats it. To swap the new one in just do reverse. Maybe clean up some of the stuff in there while you have it off also.
#3
FYI its the part right by the throttle body and ignition coil, it has a black round top with a wire harness on the top and a vacuum line on the side heading towards the other side of the engine bay aling the feul rail. use carb cleaner and spray a little inside the 2 ports hidden under the EGR valve. by the way, why are you replacing the valve? make sure that is your problem before you replace it because they're pricey. you can test the valve and vacuum lines with a vacuum gauge/gun tool.
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Re: (BB6racer)
thanks for the tips. i was hoping to find a step by step install guide as i have little idea what i'm doing. luckily it will be on a lift and i will have folks i can ask for help, but i don't want to rely on anyone else completely. i am replacing because that's what the obd tool said the problem was.
#6
Re: (kulrevon)
Yeah, it's really one of the easier things to get at on the car. Definitely don't need a lift - or even a jack.
I'd recommend using a 1/4" drive socket and 6" extension to get the 2 nuts off. It's either a 10 or 12mm socket, I forget which. Some people like to use a swivel socket to get at them, but with the 1/4" drive I've never needed one.
I'd recommend using a 1/4" drive socket and 6" extension to get the 2 nuts off. It's either a 10 or 12mm socket, I forget which. Some people like to use a swivel socket to get at them, but with the 1/4" drive I've never needed one.
#7
Re: (Daemione)
You probably don't even need to replace it - just because the ECU reports code 12 doesn't mean the valve is faulty. Most likely it's just gunked up with carbon (just clean it out with carb cleaner), or there's a dodgy connection to the lift sensor, or a tiny hole in the diaphragm (can be fixed with silicone), or a vacuum leak from the solenoid which opens it, or the solenoid, or...
Just because OBD reports a code doesn't mean you should just replace the part - could be any number of (simpler, cheaper) things!
I cleaned mine out and it's been fine ever since
To get it off you will need a socket with a thin extension, or a very odd shaped spanner!
Just because OBD reports a code doesn't mean you should just replace the part - could be any number of (simpler, cheaper) things!
I cleaned mine out and it's been fine ever since
To get it off you will need a socket with a thin extension, or a very odd shaped spanner!
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Re: (fzr)
The car has almost 150k miles so it's bound to go at some point, right? I figure I may as well replace it now (part is on it's way and I have the install scheduled for Sat morning) especially since I am hoping to take the car to VIR in April. I want it running very well then.
#11
just so you know, i had the EGR problem a while ago and i almost bought a new valve. but i went ahead and did the tests and found out that the EGR ports were just really clogged. i'm not saying you shouldn't replace tha valve, it sounds like you have a lot of miles on it anyways, but you should keep this in mind if your check engine light does not go away after you replace the valve.
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Re: (BB6racer)
Thanks all.
Maybe you folks can help me diagnose another issue (I'm hoping it's all related).
When I bought the car I know it had a failing O2 sensor (primary) so I replaced it. Prior to replacing it I noticed that the car sputtered a little at the low ends of the gears. Just after replacement this went away. However, it came back a short time later and has been getting a little worse. I am hoping that it's related to the failing EGR valve but from my understanding, it's a misguided hope.
Any suggestions on quick things to try while working on it this weekend?
Maybe you folks can help me diagnose another issue (I'm hoping it's all related).
When I bought the car I know it had a failing O2 sensor (primary) so I replaced it. Prior to replacing it I noticed that the car sputtered a little at the low ends of the gears. Just after replacement this went away. However, it came back a short time later and has been getting a little worse. I am hoping that it's related to the failing EGR valve but from my understanding, it's a misguided hope.
Any suggestions on quick things to try while working on it this weekend?
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Re: (paulab)
All you need to do is hook up a vacuum pump up to it and whaen the motor is running and you pump it up the motor should stall that how you check if the valve works it take about 10 seconds to do.
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