immadathonda

how can i check to see if the rectifier/regulater is bad on my cbr 600 f3? Is there anyway i can do it with a multimeter?

ASteele2

You basically check for continuity in one direction through the input leads and not through the other (or vice versa).

I'm sure somebody can explain it better than I can, though.

You can also check voltage oacross the battery when you rev the engine... it should stick around 13 or 14, if it dips or spikes you're looking at a problem.

EngineNoO9

I have directions saved on my desktop back at school. I had to check and replace mine... basically the easiest way is to check battery voltage at idle. it should be about 14.5V. If the charging system is bad it'll be the battery voltage of around 12.5V. More often then not charging issues go back to the rr. The coils rarely burn out unless the bike is real old

snowman95

here is a good pdf for checking your charging system

http://www.electrexusa.com/Ima...g.pdf

The following was to check the rectifier on a cbr250rr, but the general gist of it still applies

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nero Diablo,Jan 5 2006, 03:54 PM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Ok one more test to try two actually one you can do. Prefably give it a good overnight charge before this and cheak the fluild levels (top up with distilled water). Turn the ignition on headlights high beam and maybe your compressor running. If the battery has dropped a cell it may have a surface charge to hold the voltage but as soon as you put it under serious load it simply doesn't have the current to do whatever you wish, anything much over 0.7 of a volt drop its probally the battery, have you looked at the fluid in the battery recently If you are still unsure remove the battery and take it down to your local auto electrian/ battery supplier and ask them to do a load test. This will tell you conclusivly if its the battery.

I would expect your bike to be pretty hard on batteries as you are shunting a lot of current through the battery which doesn't help thier life, might be worth forking out for a Yuasa or Odessy gel cell. The 10.8 volts is a concern however and its likely you have a charging problem, most bikes don't actully start charging till couple hunderd rpm above idle on something like a 250 fourcylinder it might be up to 500 rpm above idle. Athought he charging system will only lift the across the battery reading by around 1.5 volts so if its no good to begin with you won't get much out of it.

However the fact you contiuned to ride it without it completly stopping suggest to me the charging system is doing its job. If you were simply running on battery power the bike would come to a halt with no spark once the battery was unable to supply enough to run the ignition system. Wouldn't take long if your headlights are hard wired on and the other modifcations you have.

Check the dumb stuff too battery leads tight, clean, there is a good metal to metal contact on the earth lead where it bolts to the frame etc etc.

Let us know how you get on.
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firefighter81

Pretty much, if you have an F2/F3 and are having charging problems, it's the R/R, they go bad very commonly. Back when I had my F2 in 1997, it had a problem, and I didn't even bother testing it, because I knew that's what it was, changed it out, and no more problems.

EngineNoO9

most honda r/r's are absolute ****. my superhawk did too. replaced with a gixxer one that has gigantor cooling fins and haven't had an issue since. the vfr has issues with them too

AIminiS10

Check this link out: http://forums.cbrworld.net/for....aspx That is a good way to test all the possible things that could be wrong. Good luck!!