bdavis

I put the wideband on it!!
Let me say this is the first time I have ever touched a carb before in my life.
Here is the quick run down.
Bought a 93 600 kat last year, good starter bike, fun times will one carb got all fucked. Thought it was an ignition related miss, ended up being the carb. expletive that thing. I bought a 750 kat motor. Put my full yoshi pipe on it and stuck it in the frame. the 750 carbs were trashed. Finally tracked down some 91 gsxr carbs. they fit kinda, had to use gsxr boots, throttle cable, etc. they are taller and hit the petcock on the tank, so i used some honda axle nuts to space the tank up a bit
got it running, ran all fucked up (127.5 jest), put smaller jets (112.5) in thinking it was running pig rich and it got worse. put some 137.5 jets in, woohoo it runs. still a little messed up so i put the wideband on it. lean at idle, lean at wot. put some 145's in. better, but still lean. a/f's shoot to like 17 afr under wot above 5k. damn. i'm gonna pick up some 155's and maybe 165's tomorrow. ill probably go with the 165's first. i'd like to see the thing go rich. im gonna shoot for 12.5-13.5.
also adjusted the idle screws. purrs like a kitten with a 14.4 afr at about 3 1/2 screws out.
tried all day to find filter pods for it, but no such luck. so i ripped the little boots out of the air box, stuck them on the carbs and then made a little block off plate to keep the carbs separated from tire and stuff.
im thinking of making some lil' velocity stacks for it. i still have the 2.25 in press tool for flaring out the ends from an intake mani i designed for my thesis. just gonna run some numbers and see what i want
any ideas on what jets to use??

god.loves.ugly

COOL!

bdavis

165's woohoo! mid 13's above 7-8k. spikes to about 15 afr around 5-6k.
feels much better, gonna try some 175's later. i think that will drop my spike to high 13's and make my top end about mid 12's.

i think these bike motors can handle leaner conditions than car motors, but i'd rather sacrifice that 1-2hp with the richer conditiona for the safety

MSchu

sounds like your moving in the right direction, just keep an eye on the plugs... don't run a motor on the street with out filters,your risking permanent damage otherwise... and resink carbs after a indi filter install. You know how to do a plug check right?

MSchu

Another thing, carbs are great... keep an eye open for high performance after market carbs on the bay, there are some GREAT DEALS on high end race carbs. I have seen $1500-$2000 set ups going for $300-$500. Makes me want to get a carb bike just to take advantage of these deals

ragnaroek

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MSchu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Another thing, carbs are great... </TD></TR></TABLE>

i HATE dealing with carbs. if i ever start tweaking the motor on my bike, ill be converting it to efi...

falcongsr

i've always wanted to tune my bike with my wideband off my turbo teg. very cool stuff.

my big bike has a severe heat problem, that is made worse by the catalytic convertors down by your feet. if i remove them when I add an aftermarket exhaust, i should be able to screw in the wideband o2 in the port that the factory o2 sensor is plugged into and dial things in with a power commander hopefully.

whats a good target A/F for cruising? probably stoich 14.7? I'd heard bikes can run leaner without pinging due to less mass = less load, but the higher compression ratios and stricter emissions laws (running lean makes NOx emissions spike doesnt it?) nowadays may negate that.

bdavis

yes i know how to check plugs. i read them in my turbo civic all the time
the way i have the carbs separated, there is no way for **** to get to them. im gonna try it for now. besides i NEED new tires
just picked up some 172.5's , maybe throw them on later today.

MSchu

cool, but I'm not talking about reading them, I am talking about doing a plug check.

TXcivic96

did you try adjusting the pilot adjustment screws on the bottem of the carbs?

MSchu

there are generally pilot jets, main jets, needles, and an air fuel screw... YOu should do your plug checks at WOT under load... kill the engine at WOT, coast home, and read as normal.

bdavis

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MSchu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">YOu should do your plug checks at WOT under load... kill the engine at WOT, coast home, and read as normal.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yep me too

i adjusted the pilot screws to get a nice a/f at idle. i went the wrong way at first 18-19 afr

im getting some new tires today.

The_Head

Where did you stick the probe? I tryed this last year with my YZF, I just stuck the probe up the exhaust as far as I could and rode around to see what happened. It was 13-14.5 on partial and 12.5 at WOT, so I figured it was good to go.

bdavis

it stuck it about 8-10 inches after the collector. basically the easiest place for me to weld it

i think ill throw the bigger jets in tomorrow

The_Head

I modified my airbox (punched holes in strategic locations to flow more air) which would require a rejet if I weren't at this altitude. I think the bike still runs rich... alot of carbon in the exhaust.