While I was waiting for replies to this post, I decided to piddle around with it a little more. I realized when looking at the
that the panel holding it could be removed with a
. After taking it apart I checked for power at the connector to the outlet. I was surprised to see that there was power to the connector. That told me it was something in the socket itself. At first it didn't make sense that the socket could fail, but I dug into it and finally figured out how to take it apart. That's when I found the problem.
Inside the socket there is a ring that separates the dime-sized socket bottom from the terminal that hooks to the connector. That ring has a smaller circular center section that is offset so that it acts as a spring. (The spring action
is required so that the bottom of the socket isn't continuously "hot".) This small center section has a plastic insert that acts as an insulator separating the spring from the dime-sized socket bottom. When you press a plug into the socket, the nipple pushes on the dime sized bottom, which in turn presses on the springy ring and makes contact with the 12 V terminal
. That plastic insert appeared to have gotten hot enough that it deformed. It deformed enough that it didn't allow the metal pieces
to all come together to complete the circuit. After fiddling with it for a while, I was able to find a way to reinsert the piece so that it operated properly again.
Seems to me that Honda selected the wrong plastic for this part or the have too large of a fuse selected (20A). The plastic should have had enough temperature range to handle the temperature rise caused by a high current device. Anyway, problem solved.