Advice for torque increase on 2000 crv
08-04-2015, 05:12 PM
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Advice for torque increase on 2000 crv
So heres the deal.. My girlfriend has a 2000 crv really nice that she stole cuz it had high milage... 274 when she got it 278 now... Awd.. Ive replaced a arms. Drive shaft.. Cv's all the way around exc.. So we are planning on getting the old man emu lift for is and some taller tires..the trans is auto and im going to get it sent off and freshened up and maybe a shift kit..
The problem im running into is i dont know much about the engines in these cars cuz im an American muscle guy.. I need to know what i can do to get at least a little more torque out of this guy to move those taller tires..its going to mostly be on the street but it might hit little trails every now and then nothing huge.. Im pulling the engine out and going to be rebuilding it.. So while i have it out id like to know what i can do.. I heard you cant stroke these motors cuz the cylinder walls aretoo thin.. Let me know what u guys think.. Thanks
The problem im running into is i dont know much about the engines in these cars cuz im an American muscle guy.. I need to know what i can do to get at least a little more torque out of this guy to move those taller tires..its going to mostly be on the street but it might hit little trails every now and then nothing huge.. Im pulling the engine out and going to be rebuilding it.. So while i have it out id like to know what i can do.. I heard you cant stroke these motors cuz the cylinder walls aretoo thin.. Let me know what u guys think.. Thanks
08-05-2015, 10:23 PM
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Re: Advice for torque increase on 2000 crv
Torque is limited due to the block design. Add some compression, Supercharger, or add a turbo for top end. Those are your choices.
08-06-2015, 04:53 AM
#4
DO IT ON ALL FOURS
Re: Advice for torque increase on 2000 crv
Of course you can stroke them, but it isn't going to be free. The B20 / LS crankshafts are the largest stroked crankshaft from the factory already at 89mm. The GSR / ITR is 87.2mm, B17 is 81.4mm, and the B16 is 77mm. Up to a 98mm stroke is available for a cost of over $3,000 for the rotating assembly. You will then have MASSIVE problems trying to extract the power with a NON-VTEC head.
The cylinder walls are not "thin", they are just as thick if not thicker (in most cases they are) than your standard B-series block design. With the B20 they just decided to go with the horrible monocast sleeves. This lead to inconsistencies and they are very crack prone to detonation. I am not sure what cylinder wall thickness has to do with stroking an engine anyways LOL!
So with all that out of the way, stroking is probably the worst option you could choose. This isn't a domestic and that ideology does not apply in the Honda realm. There is a replacement for displacement and it's called forced induction. Your problem will be that most of your options are going to cost some coin and you have an automatic transmission. Not saying you are broke, but let's face it, it's a freaking Honda. How much do you really want to put into it?
All of your available options are going to require premium fuel at minimum or water & meth injection / E85 at most. Personally, I would bump the compression, hog port the head or upgrade to a P8R head (and port it) if you don't have one and IF you can even find one (best NON-VTEC option), and get some camshafts. To what extent you rasie the compression is debatable but your camshaft will dictate that. You will be able to AFC hack the engine somewhat to make the AFR's safer. Your tuning options are limited.
The other route is a VTEC head conversion, but honestly it's probably not the best route for you. Without going overboard and as mentioned before, your best bet would be to find a supercharger with a supplied piggyback box and FMU. It is the least BS to deal with overall.
No matter what route you choose, it is never a bad move to upgrade the factory rod bolts to some ARPs while you have it apart. Those are the weak links inside the engines aside from the rocker design. Constant valve lash adjustments are required. It isn't as bad as solid lifters in terms of frequency, but it is much more frequent than any other Honda engine.
A good read (albeit somewhat outdated) on building a B20 is below:
The Old One - Energy Dynamics
PS - There are a LOT of us on here that do domestic and import just FYI. Oh, and of course, this is all just my opinion...
The cylinder walls are not "thin", they are just as thick if not thicker (in most cases they are) than your standard B-series block design. With the B20 they just decided to go with the horrible monocast sleeves. This lead to inconsistencies and they are very crack prone to detonation. I am not sure what cylinder wall thickness has to do with stroking an engine anyways LOL!
So with all that out of the way, stroking is probably the worst option you could choose. This isn't a domestic and that ideology does not apply in the Honda realm. There is a replacement for displacement and it's called forced induction. Your problem will be that most of your options are going to cost some coin and you have an automatic transmission. Not saying you are broke, but let's face it, it's a freaking Honda. How much do you really want to put into it?
All of your available options are going to require premium fuel at minimum or water & meth injection / E85 at most. Personally, I would bump the compression, hog port the head or upgrade to a P8R head (and port it) if you don't have one and IF you can even find one (best NON-VTEC option), and get some camshafts. To what extent you rasie the compression is debatable but your camshaft will dictate that. You will be able to AFC hack the engine somewhat to make the AFR's safer. Your tuning options are limited.
The other route is a VTEC head conversion, but honestly it's probably not the best route for you. Without going overboard and as mentioned before, your best bet would be to find a supercharger with a supplied piggyback box and FMU. It is the least BS to deal with overall.
No matter what route you choose, it is never a bad move to upgrade the factory rod bolts to some ARPs while you have it apart. Those are the weak links inside the engines aside from the rocker design. Constant valve lash adjustments are required. It isn't as bad as solid lifters in terms of frequency, but it is much more frequent than any other Honda engine.
A good read (albeit somewhat outdated) on building a B20 is below:
The Old One - Energy Dynamics
PS - There are a LOT of us on here that do domestic and import just FYI. Oh, and of course, this is all just my opinion...
08-07-2015, 11:52 AM
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Re: Advice for torque increase on 2000 crv
Of course you can stroke them, but it isn't going to be free. The B20 / LS crankshafts are the largest stroked crankshaft from the factory already at 89mm. The GSR / ITR is 87.2mm, B17 is 81.4mm, and the B16 is 77mm. Up to a 98mm stroke is available for a cost of over $3,000 for the rotating assembly. You will then have MASSIVE problems trying to extract the power with a NON-VTEC head.
The cylinder walls are not "thin", they are just as thick if not thicker (in most cases they are) than your standard B-series block design. With the B20 they just decided to go with the horrible monocast sleeves. This lead to inconsistencies and they are very crack prone to detonation. I am not sure what cylinder wall thickness has to do with stroking an engine anyways LOL!
So with all that out of the way, stroking is probably the worst option you could choose. This isn't a domestic and that ideology does not apply in the Honda realm. There is a replacement for displacement and it's called forced induction. Your problem will be that most of your options are going to cost some coin and you have an automatic transmission. Not saying you are broke, but let's face it, it's a freaking Honda. How much do you really want to put into it?
All of your available options are going to require premium fuel at minimum or water & meth injection / E85 at most. Personally, I would bump the compression, hog port the head or upgrade to a P8R head (and port it) if you don't have one and IF you can even find one (best NON-VTEC option), and get some camshafts. To what extent you rasie the compression is debatable but your camshaft will dictate that. You will be able to AFC hack the engine somewhat to make the AFR's safer. Your tuning options are limited.
The other route is a VTEC head conversion, but honestly it's probably not the best route for you. Without going overboard and as mentioned before, your best bet would be to find a supercharger with a supplied piggyback box and FMU. It is the least BS to deal with overall.
No matter what route you choose, it is never a bad move to upgrade the factory rod bolts to some ARPs while you have it apart. Those are the weak links inside the engines aside from the rocker design. Constant valve lash adjustments are required. It isn't as bad as solid lifters in terms of frequency, but it is much more frequent than any other Honda engine.
A good read (albeit somewhat outdated) on building a B20 is below:
The Old One - Energy Dynamics
PS - There are a LOT of us on here that do domestic and import just FYI. Oh, and of course, this is all just my opinion...
The cylinder walls are not "thin", they are just as thick if not thicker (in most cases they are) than your standard B-series block design. With the B20 they just decided to go with the horrible monocast sleeves. This lead to inconsistencies and they are very crack prone to detonation. I am not sure what cylinder wall thickness has to do with stroking an engine anyways LOL!
So with all that out of the way, stroking is probably the worst option you could choose. This isn't a domestic and that ideology does not apply in the Honda realm. There is a replacement for displacement and it's called forced induction. Your problem will be that most of your options are going to cost some coin and you have an automatic transmission. Not saying you are broke, but let's face it, it's a freaking Honda. How much do you really want to put into it?
All of your available options are going to require premium fuel at minimum or water & meth injection / E85 at most. Personally, I would bump the compression, hog port the head or upgrade to a P8R head (and port it) if you don't have one and IF you can even find one (best NON-VTEC option), and get some camshafts. To what extent you rasie the compression is debatable but your camshaft will dictate that. You will be able to AFC hack the engine somewhat to make the AFR's safer. Your tuning options are limited.
The other route is a VTEC head conversion, but honestly it's probably not the best route for you. Without going overboard and as mentioned before, your best bet would be to find a supercharger with a supplied piggyback box and FMU. It is the least BS to deal with overall.
No matter what route you choose, it is never a bad move to upgrade the factory rod bolts to some ARPs while you have it apart. Those are the weak links inside the engines aside from the rocker design. Constant valve lash adjustments are required. It isn't as bad as solid lifters in terms of frequency, but it is much more frequent than any other Honda engine.
A good read (albeit somewhat outdated) on building a B20 is below:
The Old One - Energy Dynamics
PS - There are a LOT of us on here that do domestic and import just FYI. Oh, and of course, this is all just my opinion...
08-07-2015, 12:37 PM
#6
DO IT ON ALL FOURS
Re: Advice for torque increase on 2000 crv
Upgrade your rod bolts (mainly for RPM) and you will be fine up to 300whp or so with stock rotating assembly. People push them higher but that's my self imposed reliability limit. May as well gap the rings for boost while you are in there then. You are making a good choice with the supercharger. 
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