explictness

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Back to the original post, I wouldn't use 18 gauge. Use 16 for some overkill especially if you're going to extend it a great deal to a hidden switch. Extending the wire a great deal increases the resistance so your fuel pump gets less power, leading to it producing less fuel pressure. Ideally you'd put a Bosch relay right at the cut point, and then you can run 18 or 22 gauge wire to your switch, but then it gets more complicated for first timers. See note at bottom.

Solder is not god's gift to electronics. It has it's flaws. I use it on every installation I do, but I also use non insulated butt connectors for more than half of the connections. It depends on what the connection calls for. The main reason why I advocate against soldering in this situation is because we are advocating this for all DIYers to do. Any DIYer can work out crimp connections in a short period of time. But those same people trying to solder are guaranteed to expletive up. If youre comfortable soldering, do it. I generally don't solder in this particular situation.


Back to the relay. Its quite simple. Use spade connectors just like on your switch. Run the fuel pump end of the wire to 30. Crimp the dash side of the fuel pump wire into the same spade connector as a short piece of 18 gauge wire and slip the spae connector on 87. Crimp another spade connector onto the end of that 18 gauge branch and slip that onto 85. Then run another piece of 18 gauge wire from 86 to one of the pins on the switch. Run the other pin on the switch to a ring terminal grounded on a factory bolt or self tapping screw into the bare metal of the chassis.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What? Im confused now? So you need to install a relay also instead of just connecting both wires to the switch?

HondaJack

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LoveOfMoney &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i got a switch i had laying around and it has 3 plugs commin out, it has POWER,ACC,GROUND do i just plug it into power and ground only?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ground to Ground somewhere on car
Power to wire coming to pump
ACC to wire going to pump

explictness

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaJack &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Ground to Ground somewhere on car
Power to wire coming to pump
ACC to wire going to pump</TD></TR></TABLE> that just helped me alot i was like, WTF? 3 plug thingies are out and in the post i saw only 2.

Stunna MIKE

2 quick questions.. first is the wire that you cut ( I HAVE AN EF CIVIC ) yellow with black stripe ? becuz i read on another DIY it said yellow with a green stripe.. thats under this site http://www.courtlukens.com/ its under tech.. then fuel cut-off switch.. i just wasnt too sure..

and also.. would you have to use a 2 prong switch or 3 for this ?

woops.. another question.. how do you wire up a relay ? is it just like a fuse that goes on one wire ? but like you cut it in half and stick the relay there ?
like if your installing a power cable with a fuse from your battery for an amp ?

crap I think I just confused my self

thank you


Modified by Aaron EF9 at 9:47 PM 2/11/2006


Modified by Aaron EF9 at 9:48 PM 2/11/2006

Stunna MIKE

also is 16awg wire over kill ?

Jerms

Your kidding me you used butt connectors

SECURITY

Ahh this project... I did fireant's killswitch as soon as I first read about it. Ghetto style w/butt connectors (not that there's anything wrong w/booty connectors). Worked like a charm until about a month ago the Radio Shack switch went BOOM!!!!!!! cutting the fuel supply as I was driving along. As soon as I get another switch I'm good to go.

Stunna MIKE

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Aaron EF9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2 quick questions.. first is the wire that you cut ( I HAVE AN EF CIVIC ) yellow with black stripe ? becuz i read on another DIY it said yellow with a green stripe.. thats under this site http://www.courtlukens.com/ its under tech.. then fuel cut-off switch.. i just wasnt too sure..

and also.. would you have to use a 2 prong switch or 3 for this ?

woops.. another question.. how do you wire up a relay ? is it just like a fuse that goes on one wire ? but like you cut it in half and stick the relay there ?
like if your installing a power cable with a fuse from your battery for an amp ?

crap I think I just confused my self

thank you</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Aaron EF9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also is 16awg wire over kill ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Anyone ?

Jonknee

I did this,and hid two switches connected to a small siren

acuradude2006

thanks

Super79Dave

Neat but why run all that wire why not do it at the main relay!

mahatma

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Back to the relay. Its quite simple. Use spade connectors just like on your switch. Run the fuel pump end of the wire to 30. Crimp the dash side of the fuel pump wire into the same spade connector as a short piece of 18 gauge wire and slip the spae connector on 87. Crimp another spade connector onto the end of that 18 gauge branch and slip that onto 85. Then run another piece of 18 gauge wire from 86 to one of the pins on the switch. Run the other pin on the switch to a ring terminal grounded on a factory bolt or self tapping screw into the bare metal of the chassis.</TD></TR></TABLE>
THANK YOU! This little tutorial is money for wiring idiots like me. I lack most of the fundamental electrical knowledge - as you will see - but I will go through the necessary motions to make sure things are safe. Now my question:

Earlier in this thread WesV stated that wiring in a relay would allow you to use a smaller switch that was easier to hide. Does this mean that the AMP rating of the switch can be lower....like you could use a 6amp switch instead of 20?? What kind of protection does the relay offer? I ask because when I was switch-shopping, the size of the switches are directly proportional to the amperage rating. Radio Shack dude said you can always go over on the rating and be safe, but never get a switch rated lower. So thanks for any help with this.....

fireant

mahatma, you are correct, the point of the relay is to allow any amperage of swicth, no matter how small, to be your switch.

The relay acts as the switch for the fuel pump, and the low-amp switch acts as the on-off switch for the relay.

mahatma

Cool. So I still use the same 16 gauge wire to run to the dinky-*** switch? The terminals on those things are like the size of a grain of rice. Should probably solder those.....?

.Thomas

good stuff

fireant

solder all of it if you can. No, 16 gauge is not neccessary for the switch to the relay, but its still recommended for the relay to the fuel pump lines.

tpod

made mine today, good write up

soslodelsol

i prefer putting the switch on the ground side of the circuit.

1. low voltage that passes thru.
2. wont hurt the wire if you touched it to the body.
3. honda prefers the ground switch side anyways.

solder anything you splice or strip. better in the long run. as in you wont have to do it over again.

my .02 cents.

good write up.

i went with the fuel injector cut-off though.

tpod

i soldered everything, (soslodelsol) could you pm me or point me in the right direction on how to make one for the injectors also, i would like to have more than one

troubledcrx

ok so suspended hatch, in this forum you say connect both the fuel pump wire and the 18 gauge wire together to 87. then connect the other end of that 18 gauge wire to 85, but in your link, you tell us to attach it to 86, (the other side of the relay) then attach the wire to the switch at 85....

which one do you mean? 87 to 86? or 87 to 85?

then you have one wire running to the switch and from there, you have a wire running to the ground, fastened to the car by a bolt. right?

also, if using a relay, is it possible to use 20 gauge wire? its all i have kicking around!

thanks in advance for all your help!

KaoticSnow

Beautiful, just may be doing this soon.

chokeonthisEf2

this works great....no more late nights looking out the window

AndrePerras

Well i see some people would like to use relays so i took the liberty of making a wiring diagram for those who wish

BTW most relays have a small diagram on the cover with the pins labeled so you know which pin is what.



I'll try to answer any questions but i don't check back threads too often or check my PMs too often. Hope this helps someone.

KaoticSnow

I've always preferred the relay,
1) eliminates tons of hot wires near your switches
2) less wires all together because you don't have to have a hot coming to the switch and a hot going to the device. instead run a ground wire and then all stitches can share a common ground.

junior40er

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by knwldge54 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Everyone isn't putting they're switch in the same place.</TD></TR></TABLE>
it does matter where in the car the switched is placed. all you have to do is go and jump the wire and completly bypass the killswitch. This is a great security measure but really wish it wasn't out there for thieves to educate themselves. just remember that wire goes all over the place in the car so you can simply located another location in the car for the same circuit.