1991 Honda Crx, how could I make it the best daily driver with best mpg
#1
1991 Honda Crx, how could I make it the best daily driver with best mpg
I'm wanting to get a CRX, but I'm not wanting for power or showing off but for daily use. Could you please give me advice on how to make it just that. Prices on what to get would be great. Thanks
#2
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Re: 1991 Honda Crx, how could I make it the best daily driver with best mpg
Keep the stock 4 speed trans and DPFI motor. Drop it 2" or so. Try to cut down on the front surface area to reduce drag. Mirror deletes if legal. Fill in the front bumper where you can. I've see radiator plates to cut down on the air getting caught. But be cautious not to overheat. Higher engine temps (190-200?) are good for MPG. Inflate your tires properly. Remove excess weight, no fancy radio. Engine tune up (rotor, cap, plugs, wires, O2, filters, etc)
Most of this should be nearly free if you are a decent DIYer. A higher temp thermostat plus the tune up may run you a couple hundred bucks at the end of the day.
EDIT: Dropping the car should help with fuel economy. That will be the most expensive part. Also, solid hub caps. I've seen 2-3 MPG increases with those alone. I'm not sure if they are common for Hondas though.
Most of this should be nearly free if you are a decent DIYer. A higher temp thermostat plus the tune up may run you a couple hundred bucks at the end of the day.
EDIT: Dropping the car should help with fuel economy. That will be the most expensive part. Also, solid hub caps. I've seen 2-3 MPG increases with those alone. I'm not sure if they are common for Hondas though.
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Re: 1991 Honda Crx, how could I make it the best daily driver with best mpg
That's really about it for stock, for a swap you can try an HF body with a VTEC-E engine. For the hard core look at adding a small turbo. Don't forget light weight wheels, VX wheels are arguably the most desirable but the older HF had aluminum wheels that look like steelies.
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#8
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Re: 1991 Honda Crx, how could I make it the best daily driver with best mpg
That's really about it for stock, for a swap you can try an HF body with a VTEC-E engine. For the hard core look at adding a small turbo. Don't forget light weight wheels, VX wheels are arguably the most desirable but the older HF had aluminum wheels that look like steelies.
If you are looking for crazy good MPG, Geo Metros are where it's at. Just throwing it out there. 50+ stock, 3 cylinder, 5 speed manual.
EDIT:
LOL at BLU's comment below mine.
Last edited by Freemananana; 06-24-2014 at 10:39 AM.
#10
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Re: 1991 Honda Crx, how could I make it the best daily driver with best mpg
Freemananana-When you look at it in turns of money returned, it's most likely not going to do so for a number years. Hard to give it a definitive yes/no answer. I'll say for the hobbyist yes. For the broke person hell no. About the turbo, you're on the right track. I've read through a couple of threads that show some serious gains in MPG when tuned accordingly for lean mode but still have some good power when in full boost. I wish I could elaborate a bit more than that but try looking for the dude that was getting mid 60's for MPGs but still had 200+hp. Not earth shattering by any means but that's a fun daily right there.
#11
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Re: 1991 Honda Crx, how could I make it the best daily driver with best mpg
I think the HF is the best bet. After that I'd say get a turbo, try to find something incredibly small, T25 1G DSM is all I can think of. And tune for lean burn and economy. It would be interesting to say the least. 60+ is pretty good. There are only a handful of Geo Owners (XFI, 3/5+mods) that I know of that get that kind of mileage.
I know 30~ MPG and 250-300 HP is pretty norm if the low load portions of the map are tuned quite lean.
I know 30~ MPG and 250-300 HP is pretty norm if the low load portions of the map are tuned quite lean.
#13
Honda-Tech Member
Re: 1991 Honda Crx, how could I make it the best daily driver with best mpg
There's nothing wrong with DPFI models, with gentle driving and maintenance upkeep you can easily hover around 40mpg.
#15
Re: 1991 Honda Crx, how could I make it the best daily driver with best mpg
77 MPG
Fuel log
http://ecomodder.com/forum/em-fuel-l...vehicleid=8353
Lifetime Fuel Economy: 77.2 mpg (US), 3 L/100 km, 92.7 mpg (Imp)
90-day Fuel Economy: 77.2 mpg (US), 3 L/100 km, 92.7 mpg (Imp)
3-tank Fuel Economy: 87.3 mpg (US), 2.7 L/100 km, 104.8 mpg (Imp)
EPA Combined Rating / % over rating: 43 mpg (US) / 79.5% (based on 90-day fuel economy)
Total fills: 16
Average cost per gal/L: $3.67 per gal (US); $0.00 per L (price data entered for 15 fill/s)
Average cost per fill: $15.89
Average distance cost: $0.05 per mi. / $0.03 per km
Total fuel used: 95.98 gal (US), 363.3 L
Total distance traveled: 7408.3 mi. / 11922.4 km
Total cost: $238.34
Total fuel saved vs. EPA: 76.3 gal. (US) / 288.8 L
Total saved: $280.02 (based on avg. cost per gal./L)
Average tank distance: 463 mi. / 745.2 km
Build thread
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...avy-28815.html
Fuel log
http://ecomodder.com/forum/em-fuel-l...vehicleid=8353
Lifetime Fuel Economy: 77.2 mpg (US), 3 L/100 km, 92.7 mpg (Imp)
90-day Fuel Economy: 77.2 mpg (US), 3 L/100 km, 92.7 mpg (Imp)
3-tank Fuel Economy: 87.3 mpg (US), 2.7 L/100 km, 104.8 mpg (Imp)
EPA Combined Rating / % over rating: 43 mpg (US) / 79.5% (based on 90-day fuel economy)
Total fills: 16
Average cost per gal/L: $3.67 per gal (US); $0.00 per L (price data entered for 15 fill/s)
Average cost per fill: $15.89
Average distance cost: $0.05 per mi. / $0.03 per km
Total fuel used: 95.98 gal (US), 363.3 L
Total distance traveled: 7408.3 mi. / 11922.4 km
Total cost: $238.34
Total fuel saved vs. EPA: 76.3 gal. (US) / 288.8 L
Total saved: $280.02 (based on avg. cost per gal./L)
Average tank distance: 463 mi. / 745.2 km
Build thread
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...avy-28815.html
Last edited by David_S; 06-24-2014 at 02:55 PM.
#21
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Re: 1991 Honda Crx, how could I make it the best daily driver with best mpg
I think people under estimate how far aero mods (blocking the front grill for example) go in terms of MPG. Also, lowering is really helpful.
#23
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Re: 1991 Honda Crx, how could I make it the best daily driver with best mpg
96-00 1.6 L D16Y5 (Civic) HX VTEC-E
01-05 1.7 L D17A6 (Civic) HX VTEC-E
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Honda_engines
VTEC-E
Question book-new.svg
This section does not cite any references or sources. Please help improve this section by adding citations to reliable sources. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. (July 2013)
The earliest VTEC-E implementation is a variation of SOHC VTEC which is used to increase combustion efficiency at low RPM while maintaining the mid range performance of non-vtec engines. VTEC-E is the first version of VTEC to employ the use of roller rocker arms and because of that, it forgoes the need for having 3 intake lobes for actuating the two valves—two identical lobes for non-VTEC operation and one lobe for VTEC operation. Instead, there are two different intake cam profiles per cylinder—a very mild cam lobe with little lift and a normal cam lobe with moderate lift. Because of this, at low RPM, when VTEC is not engaged, one of the two intake valves is allowed to open only a very small amount due to the mild cam lobe, forcing most of the intake charge through the other open intake valve with the normal cam lobe. This induces swirl of the intake charge which improves air/fuel atomization in the cylinder and allows for a leaner fuel mixture to be used. As the engine's speed and load increase, both valves are needed to supply a sufficient mixture. When engaging VTEC mode, a pre-defined threshold for MPH (must be moving), RPM and load must be met before the computer actuates a solenoid which directs pressurized oil into a sliding pin, just like with the original VTEC. This sliding pin connects the intake rocker arm followers together so that now, both intake valves are now following the "normal" camshaft lobe instead of just one of them. When in VTEC, since the "normal" cam lobe has the same timing and lift as the intake cam lobes of the SOHC non-VTEC engines, both engines have identical performance in the upper powerband assuming everything else is the same.
With the later VTEC-E implementations, the only difference it has with the earlier VTEC-E is that the second "normal" cam profile has been replaced with a "wild" cam profile which is identical to the original VTEC "wild" cam profile. This in essence supersedes VTEC and the earlier VTEC-E implementations since the fuel and low RPM torque benefits of the earlier VTEC-E are combined with the high performance of the original VTEC.
3-Stage VTEC
Main article: 3-stage VTEC
Question book-new.svg
This section does not cite any references or sources. Please help improve this section by adding citations to reliable sources. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. (July 2013)
3-Stage VTEC is a version that employs three different cam profiles to control intake valve timing and lift. Due to this version of VTEC being designed around a SOHC valve head, space was limited and so VTEC can only modify the opening and closing of the intake valves. The low-end fuel economy improvements of VTEC-E and the performance of conventional VTEC are combined in this application. From idle to 2500-3000 RPM, depending on load conditions, one intake valve fully opens while the other opens just slightly, enough to prevent pooling of fuel behind the valve, also called 12-valve mode. This 12 Valve mode results in swirl of the intake charge which increases combustion efficiency, resulting in improved low end torque and better fuel economy. At 3000-5400 RPM, depending on load, one of the VTEC solenoids engages, which causes the second valve to lock onto the first valve's camshaft lobe. Also called 4-valve mode, this method resembles a normal engine operating mode and improves the mid-range power curve. At 5500-7000 RPM, the second VTEC solenoid engages (both solenoids now engaged) so that both intake valves are using a middle, third camshaft lobe. The third lobe is tuned for high-performance and provides peak power at the top end of the RPM range.
Question book-new.svg
This section does not cite any references or sources. Please help improve this section by adding citations to reliable sources. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. (July 2013)
The earliest VTEC-E implementation is a variation of SOHC VTEC which is used to increase combustion efficiency at low RPM while maintaining the mid range performance of non-vtec engines. VTEC-E is the first version of VTEC to employ the use of roller rocker arms and because of that, it forgoes the need for having 3 intake lobes for actuating the two valves—two identical lobes for non-VTEC operation and one lobe for VTEC operation. Instead, there are two different intake cam profiles per cylinder—a very mild cam lobe with little lift and a normal cam lobe with moderate lift. Because of this, at low RPM, when VTEC is not engaged, one of the two intake valves is allowed to open only a very small amount due to the mild cam lobe, forcing most of the intake charge through the other open intake valve with the normal cam lobe. This induces swirl of the intake charge which improves air/fuel atomization in the cylinder and allows for a leaner fuel mixture to be used. As the engine's speed and load increase, both valves are needed to supply a sufficient mixture. When engaging VTEC mode, a pre-defined threshold for MPH (must be moving), RPM and load must be met before the computer actuates a solenoid which directs pressurized oil into a sliding pin, just like with the original VTEC. This sliding pin connects the intake rocker arm followers together so that now, both intake valves are now following the "normal" camshaft lobe instead of just one of them. When in VTEC, since the "normal" cam lobe has the same timing and lift as the intake cam lobes of the SOHC non-VTEC engines, both engines have identical performance in the upper powerband assuming everything else is the same.
With the later VTEC-E implementations, the only difference it has with the earlier VTEC-E is that the second "normal" cam profile has been replaced with a "wild" cam profile which is identical to the original VTEC "wild" cam profile. This in essence supersedes VTEC and the earlier VTEC-E implementations since the fuel and low RPM torque benefits of the earlier VTEC-E are combined with the high performance of the original VTEC.
3-Stage VTEC
Main article: 3-stage VTEC
Question book-new.svg
This section does not cite any references or sources. Please help improve this section by adding citations to reliable sources. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. (July 2013)
3-Stage VTEC is a version that employs three different cam profiles to control intake valve timing and lift. Due to this version of VTEC being designed around a SOHC valve head, space was limited and so VTEC can only modify the opening and closing of the intake valves. The low-end fuel economy improvements of VTEC-E and the performance of conventional VTEC are combined in this application. From idle to 2500-3000 RPM, depending on load conditions, one intake valve fully opens while the other opens just slightly, enough to prevent pooling of fuel behind the valve, also called 12-valve mode. This 12 Valve mode results in swirl of the intake charge which increases combustion efficiency, resulting in improved low end torque and better fuel economy. At 3000-5400 RPM, depending on load, one of the VTEC solenoids engages, which causes the second valve to lock onto the first valve's camshaft lobe. Also called 4-valve mode, this method resembles a normal engine operating mode and improves the mid-range power curve. At 5500-7000 RPM, the second VTEC solenoid engages (both solenoids now engaged) so that both intake valves are using a middle, third camshaft lobe. The third lobe is tuned for high-performance and provides peak power at the top end of the RPM range.
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