uncleben

edit: scroll to bottom to see latest


I got one of those Gtech-pro accelerometers. I don't know how accurate it is, but I think it's pretty close. The only thing I had to bench it against was my ITR which I've bested a 14.97 1/4mile time with, yes, sad I know, 2.5 60' launches. The Gtech was coming within .2 to .3 of 14.97 on good launches, so I'd say it's fairly accurate.

But ANYWAY... to the point of the story. So I took out the hatchy and ran some 1/4 mile runs and 0-60mph runs with the Gtech meter. It's 100% bone stock right now, including it's hella-crappy 14" street tires that induce wheel spin all the way through first if you let 'em. So my idea was to do as accurate of a launch, trying not to spin the tires. I did it several times, on the same stretch of road, in the same direction even. The 0-60mph times were in the 9.3 to 9.4sec range. I was paying less attention to the 1/4 mile times but they were in the 17's. I've done better 0-60mph and 1/4mile times before with the hatch, but I was going for repeated accuracy and so not spinning the tires and slowly accelerating was key to getting good results for benchmarking.

I installed a Kamakazi 4-1 header and at the same time removed about 50lbs of weight in the way of my A/C. I left the header open and didn't bolt back up the cat-back and decided to see what the Gtech meter would show in the way of improvement, but this time I had a passenger, 150lbs or so. Several runs and I was able to easily do 8.2 to 8.3sec, 0-60mph runs and 1/4 mile in the range of 16.5 to 16.6.

That's a full one-second improvement AND with an added 100lbs of weight (150lbs passenger minus 50lbs A/C).

Running open-header was pretty funny, my car sounded like one of those IT Datsun 510's with no exhaust I see at the local track occasionally, it was insanely loud. Tomorrow I will bolt back up the cat-back (bone stock as well) and do some more 0-60mph and 1/4mile times with the Gtech and see if I lose anything. The Gtech may or may not be accurate to real-world times, but it is a great tool IMO for benchmarking.





[Modified by uncleben, 6:47 PM 12/5/2002]

RCautoworks

Thats cool, how much did you pay for the Kamakazi and do you think the quality is good ? What engine are you running in your hatch, and open header is loud but it is funny to see people look at your car and either think, dam it might blow up or dam that thing is fast lol.

USDM 4G VTEC

word up!

PaImportTuner

whats up with people who change there headers and then go driving around to feel the track feel and noisy vibration?? I did the same thing last week man.. lets just say it was fast without exhuast

uncleben

I got the Kamakazi used from SOHC Beast for a very nice price. I was just looking for something cheap. I would have normally gone for a brand I know like DC, OPM, or SMSP, but again, cheap was the name of the game here. I think the quality looks fine. I'm sure anything is better than the stock header.

Also, I have a bone-stock d16a6 ...

Yes running open header is rediculously loud, but I only did it out of curiosity. There is virtually NO low-end power, it's like you step on the gas and all you get is noise. But around 4.5k rpms it starts to hit and it pulls hard all the way to redline. We'll see how it all is with the cat-back bolted back on today.

SeaBass

cool. keep us updated...

uncleben

Okay the latest... I ran another few runs open-header, to see any changes without a passenger and I pulled out a 16.16 and a high 7.x 0-60mph time... I was pretty happy with that.

I bolted the stock cat-back on and went out for some more runs. The stock cat-back is extremely restrictive! I could tell a difference just driving around before even doing any runs. As I expected 0-60mph with the exhaust bolted up was about 8.5 and 1/4 in the high 16's.

So...

stock d16a6:
0-60mph = 9.4sec
1/4mile = 17.5

d16a6 with 4-1 header (closed):
0-60mph = 8.5sec
1/4mile = 16.9

d16a6 with 4-1 header (open):
0-60mph = 7.9sec
1/4mile = 16.1


Next on the list is a AEM CAI and a free-flowing cat and cat-back exhaust... I'll do more runs with each and post up results.

SkylineGTR

Man i wish i had a G-tech pro and use it but i can't since my cigarette lighter thing is broken and doesn't heat up. Anyone know how you can get this fixed. I've been thinking of getting a G-tech for some time now. Keep up the update.

Ham'ed Hatch

very interesting.
those g-techs sound like alot of fun

xXx Justin xXx

ha, well i'm glad you seem to be enjoying it!! i told you it made a hell of a difference in pull 3k and up. if you are running stock air box, try just pulling the plastic/rubber peice off of the side of the box. there is a peice like a Y that goes into a back pressure box, and one that goes to the front middle of the hood. that makes a noticable difference too. even sounds good! and did you use that 02 sensor i left in there, or put yours in?

RCautoworks

You ever check your fuse for it ?

The first time I read your post I must of skiped over that you used a gtech pro, or it probably did not click in my head what this was. I always wanted to know, does this really work ? I know you said you did not know how accurate it was but do you think it is worth the money ?





[Modified by 90blackcrx, 9:20 AM 11/24/2002]

uncleben

yup, did that already - does sound different... now waiting on a AEM CAI actually

man i tired everything to get it out with no luck. I'm going to have to cut/drill it out I guess.

uncleben

I think it's certainly worth the money.
And since I am using it to see improvements between mods, it is perfectly accurate for that. And like I said, it seems to be right on the money on what I've run at the track with my Type-R, so I think it's accurate enough.

Not only that, but you can get it from a guy on Ebay who sells them new in the box for like $89. Just search Ebay

Blown90hatcH

Go to the track and test the 3 different setups and tell me how close the results are with the Ogeetech

Rob!

i wann get one of those gtechs

uncleben

Maybe you should read my post again... the validity of the Gtech is in it's accuracy against itself under the same conditions. I don't care if it is accurate compared to times at the track. And besides, if you had read my post you'd see that I believe it is anyway, at least within a 10th of a second. Read my post regarding the Gtech in the Type-R forum and you'll read several other people with as much success.

Again, I am using it to see how much improvement each modification makes to the same car under the same conditions. It would be the same as using a stop-watch to see your time in a particular test (be it 0-60, 20-60, 1/4mile (if known distance) or whatever). You could to the same test 5 times, average the times for accuracy, then make a change to the car (a mod) and see how much improvement there was. It's the same thing... I don't care if you think the car won't do the same at the track, that's not the point.

SkylineGTR

The G-tech pro is pretty accurate. Like i said, i've been researching this product for some while and when i first heard about it seemed too good to be true but technology is a good thing and they use it to make it work. Of course it's not EXACT but it's very close.

G-reX

Yeah did you check your fuse? I can't use my cigarette lighter either because it now starts my car

G-reX

Oh yeah congrats on your new header , when i ran mine at the track with open header i ran 2 tenths slower.



[Modified by G-reX, 9:03 PM 11/24/2002]

Blown90hatcH

First off, it isnt accuracy....it is precision. The Gtech is not accurate, but may be precise. I don't doubt that your car is faster with different mods, but I want you to see how much they actually are. Go to the track with the different setups and come back and tell me that your times decreased as much as they did on the Gtech.

uncleben

That's interesting... what header? In my case it definitely had no low-end, but I could feel the high-end increase, I didn't need the Gtech to see that. Active Aero (usually found in the ITR forum) has had really good luck running open-header at the track.

But anyway... I did some more runs today, this time without the axle-back exhaust. I figured the cat and resonator would provide enough back-pressure for the low-end and removing the exhaust would provide a little more high-end flow. Immediately the car felt better when I started towards my "testing" destination, and I was surprised that it really wasn't that loud, not much more than when someone just put's on a straight through muffler.

So putting it all together again: (and again, I ran multiple runs to insure consistency)

stock d16a6:
0-60mph = 9.4sec
1/4mile = 17.5

d16a6 with 4-1 header (closed):
0-60mph = 8.5sec
1/4mile = 16.9

d16a6 with 4-1 header and removed axle-back:
0-60mph = 7.9sec
1/4mile = 16.3

d16a6 with 4-1 header (open):
0-60mph = 7.9sec
1/4mile = 16.1

I found it interesting that running without the axle-back yielded similar 0-60mph times (it was a few 100th's off) but slower 1/4 mile times.

I should have the AEM CAI on by the end of the week and will do some more runs.

uncleben

I thought about starting a new thread but for now this can go in here. Anyway, I finally got my AEM CAI and installed it a couple days ago. The night I got it installed it started snowing and I've been dying to take it out for some runs. Today it finally cleared up and I ran 3-4 runs. So all together now again:

d16a6 completely stock:
0-60mph = 9.4sec
1/4mile = 17.5

d16a6 with 4-1 header:
0-60mph = 8.5sec
1/4mile = 16.9

d16a6 with 4-1 header and removed axle-back:
0-60mph = 7.9sec
1/4mile = 16.3

d16a6 with 4-1 header (running open header):
0-60mph = 7.9sec
1/4mile = 16.1

d16a6 with 4-1 header, removed axle-back and AEM Cold Air:
0-60mph = 7.7sec
1/4mile = 15.99

I imagine if I ran open header again with this setup I'd be another 0.1 or 0.2 lower, but it's just too loud. Having the axle-back off is the best of both worlds. The stock cat and resonator provide plenty of back-pressure for low-end power, but the stock exhaust was such a bottleneck that it really opens up nicely after 4k rpm with it just removed. I will eventually replace the entire cat-back with a free flowing cat, 2.25" custom pipe, most likely a small resonator, and a straight-through design N1 $80 knock-off.

Right now I'm so tempted to gut the thing to see how much more time I can drop, but it's nasty as crap outside and the hatchy is transporting myself and my friends while the nice cars stay in the garage

SeaBass

Wait a sec, just installing the header knocked almost a full second off your 0-60 time? WoW.

7.7 0-60 is an outstanding time with your set-up. How would you rate your driving skills?

SeaBass

wait, forget my last post. I forgot about the g-tech only being reliable against itself.

Real world times may vary.

Still, 9.4 - 7.7 is an outstanding improvement!

Urban Business

what diameter is the collector on your header? if its 2" what you can do to eliminate the cat completely is buy an 88 civic STD b pipe. bolts straight up and totaly eliminated the cat. stock axle back bolts up perfectly as well.

running an open header rules. sounds like a damn indy car at high rpms during wot.