cbmprelude

How do you visually tell if a rotor is warped or needs to be replaced? Whats about pads? Thanks

BLUE EH3

drive it!

BLUE EH3

i had warped rotors!

philosofy1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cbmprelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How do you visually tell if a rotor is warped or needs to be replaced? Whats about pads? Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

i never could tell visually, but the best way is to drive it. if it shake when you brake, most likely they are warped.

cbmprelude

if the pad is worn down will it shake?

jtchinoy

shouldn't shake if it's warn down. It'll just take more pushing on the brake to get it to stop.

bpkmrtoes

vibrations when you brake while driving.

cbmprelude

yea thats what I am getting now. Can I buy just pads, rotors, and bleed and be good to go? Any suggestions what to buy?

jtchinoy

brembo blanks
OEM replacement

I don't think you need to bleed.

Remove the caliper, remove the pads and bracket. Remove the rotor, put everything back. Use a C clamp to compress the piston when you put that back on.

cbmprelude

will brembo brakes perform better than stock? Also can I get pad that will perform better?

Bfreeman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cbmprelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">will brembo brakes perform better than stock? Also can I get pad that will perform better?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes blanks are from me and yea theres lots of differnt pads out there

if u just get new rotors its easy to replace the old ones.

and take ur rotors to a local shop and get them turned for like $25 and they'll be good as new.

excivicboy96

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cbmprelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if the pad is worn down will it shake?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No you may notice low brake fluid as it has to compensate for the lost pad. If you touch on the brake you could feel pulsations in the pedal to tell if its warped

cbmprelude

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bfreeman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
and take ur rotors to a local shop and get them turned for like $25 and they'll be good as new.</TD></TR></TABLE>

really? is there a limit to doing this? is there a visual check that will tell me if I still can?

BubblegumTate

If you're going to replace the rotors or remove them and have them turned, you might as well replace the pads at the same time. You've already done all the work required to get them off anyway.

For a good quality pad, I like Hawk HPS pads for street and autocross use. They've never failed me and I don't hear a peep from them, wet or dry. You could also go with the $9 store brand cheap-o pads that stop fine, but you'll hear them.

cbmprelude

hmm, where can I get them?

BubblegumTate

I got mine from tirerack.com, but I'm sure you can find them lots of places online.

cbmprelude

I have heard people mention auto zone blank rotors. Whats the general opinion on them?

cbmprelude

also why must the caliper be compressed?

CTR-GSR

ppl get autozone pads cuz they offer lifetime warranties, but for performance braking they suck. Brembo blanks with like...hawk pads or something is the best. Also, if your pedal is pulsating, or pumping up and down similar to ABS, then you know your rotors are warped, dry slowing down quickly from high speed and observe how your foot moves while the pedal is being applied.

BubblegumTate

You have to compress the caliper to so you can fit it all back together. With worn rotors and worn pads, the caliper piston has to extend further out to force the pads to make contact with the rotor. When you put a new rotor on, the thickness is back out to maximum, same with new pads, so you need to compress the piston back into the caliper to make room to fit it all back together.

When you do that, open the brake fluid reservoir and keep watching it so you can recover some of the fluid before it runs out the top. (Mine has always been low enough that it never has made it out, but you never know)

cbmprelude

thanks guys! that lifetime warrenty seems like a great idea, but if the performace sucks then hmmm

ifIexplode

Dont brakes pulsate aside from warped roaters? such as ABS?

MonkeyBoy668

ABS is a quick tap-tap-tap-tap-tap replete with the ABS relay going off in time with the pulses. And it doesn't pulse forever, if the ABS isn't grabbing at all (e.g. snow) it will let the tires plow (lock) after about 15-20 seconds of ABS pulsing. If ABS somehow failed so it always pulsed, it would probably follow the same behavior (pulse for a short while, then stop).

Shaking of the car in time with brake pulsing is in no way comparable to ABS pulsing. The relay is pretty damn loud too.

F'NfastSOHCturbo

YEAH IF YOU GET A PULSE THERE WARPED. YOU CAN DO 2 THINGS:
1 - GET THE ROTORS RESURFACED (LIKE $10 EACH ROUGHLY)
2 - BUY NEW ONES

THERE REALLY CHEAP FOR CIVICS THESE DAYS. IF YOU WANT TO UPGRADE A BIT GO CROSSDRILL OR SLOTTED OR BOTH, A GOOD CARBON MIX PAD, & SOME S/S LINES. THATS BOUT $300 BUT ITS WORTH IT. BETTER PEDAL & WAY BETTER STOPPING POWER. OE STYLE WILL RUN YOU BOUT $100 ( 2 DECENT ROTORS & 1 SET OF CERAMIC PADS (OE FOR HONDAS). BIG BRAKE KITS ARE A WASTE TO...

cbmprelude

I'm going to buy new rotors just to be safe, also this is solely a street car never taken to the track beaten on, so I don't think I need slotted or drilled. do s/s lines really make a difference for street driving?