mk378

Several weeks of difficult to diagnose problems?

2LEM1

iTrader: (1)

Jesus Christ guys, this isn't rocket surgery.

OP, there's a ******* reason 20 different companies sell a S2K clutch master spacer... it's not because you don't need it. Get the spacer if you're running the S2K MC. It's 15 bucks. For the love of God, don't ruin another clutch from stupidity.

lurice01

I'm still spacing CMC a 1/4" with washers and its been good so far. I did buy the spacer from checkered auto parts, but my s2k CMC is from Omni Power which doesn't provide a spacer.

Hey, mk378, back on post #37 or so, I was asking about that noisy bearing I had in my transmission, and you posted a pic, but its not there anymore and I'm ready to fix it. Can you guide me to the right part? Remember we were calling it the ISB?

mk378

Here is a whole recent thread by someone taking his transmission apart to replace bearings:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...x-isb-3290093/'
I think it is best to buy that part from a dealer. At least go to a dealer site and get the Honda part number then cross it to a third party part if you want. The bearing is a special "angular contact" design not a standard industrial bearing.

lurice01

Damn that dude had a hell of a time. I will make sure I don't put my reverse gear on upside down. I also don't want to do the drop tranny on a 2x4 method to get it back together. I like what you mk378 was saying about using the bolts.

I want to get the part from a dealer like you mk378 reccomend. That is, this part number 12 on hondaoutomotiveparts.com
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...5=MT+MAINSHAFT

but rockauto.com also has the Timken brand kit with 5 bearings and the seals for them for $100
More Information for TIMKEN TRKH150

Does the Timken kit have that part in it and can you recommend it?

Also, I used to always use 10w30 oil in my tranny. Then I switched to Honda MTF. Which do you MK378 recommend? Manual for 95 says 10w30 but 96 says Honda MTF and 2017 10w30 oil is surely nothing like 1995 10w30 oil. I heard it's all about zinc content but I just want my bearings to last.

lurice01

Bump

mk378

The lesson to take away from that thread is do not try to force the case closed, something is wrong and you will break it. If you have everything right, it will just drop to the fully closed position when you pop the snap ring.

lurice01

I will keep that in mind when i attempt to install the Timken brand rebuild kit i went ahead and ordered.
________________________

The debate between whether to use Honda MTF vs Regular 10w30 oil in a 1995 civic manual transmission shown here

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...-best-2963211/

is what made me choose to switch to Honda MTF.
The user named Honda Lioness convinced me to switch to Honda MTF, but now I think I should have listened to 94EG8/Seagull Management because it seems I did have a premature bearing failure after switching from 10w30 to Honda MTF. I still want to use Honda MTF because Honda Lioness was so convincing but I think 94EG8 and my experience says to use 10w30. Then again, I'm not totally sure when I first started hearing the bearing noise.
If you read that thread, who is right?

lurice01

I have read sooo much about it and narrowed it down to the strongest arguments coming from Honda Lioness and this other guy know as Bone.

95 and older trannys call for 10w30 SF or SG grade oil and Honda MTF did not exist until 96. Honda MTF came about because motor oil changed zinc content for the catalytic converter's and environment's sake. Now motor oils are grade or class SM, SL, or SJ. 1996 and newer civics call for Honda MTF, and many bulletins and announcements have came down that say Honda MTF overwrites all old info, meaning Honda MTF is now recommended for all but I don't believe its neccessarily the best.

I also learned there is a Honda MTF 1 and after 2006, they made a new Honda MTF 2, which everyone says is super thin. Which I agree it appears very thin. So very thin compared to 10w30, yet everyone says Honda MTF is same thing as 10w30, excexpt Honda MTF has zinc and friction modifiers.
Friction modifiers apparently increase friction, because syncros work better with more friction, which is why Full Synthetic Motor Oil is considered too slippery for a Honda transmission.
Could it be because Honda MTF is so thin, that it simply is unable to lube the bearing as well as 10w30? or perhaps 10w30 was a littler thicker so it was muffling the bearing noise?

However, I learned and noticed that my bearings are shielded in plastic, and as I understand the 96 and older are shielded with metal. Redline MTF is a brand to avoid because it apparently eats the plastic up. Also, can it be that Motor Oil protects bearings better than Honda MTF on a 95 transmission, while Honda MTF allows syncros to perform better?

If my tranny was designed for 10w30 SF or SG oil, I decided that's what I should use. Bone recommends SuperTech 10w30 but I just can't put the WalMart oil in my car. So I'm thinking screw Honda MTF and I've narrowed it down to these two:

Mobil Super Conventional Oil 10w30 because its basic like Super Tech, but better.
Rotella 10w30 Synthetic Blend because it is supposed to have extra zinc. I just don't much like it because of price and its not conventional oil. I can't really tell if it still has high zinc content these days. Can you?

CX-Adam

lurice,

Make sure to stake your new bearings in place. Practice getting the case closed a few times before you do it with gasket maker. Once you get the hang of seating the snap rings, it become really easy. The first few times are a pain, though.

Oil will say if it is high zinc or it'll be referred to as break-in oil. Bone and Bense are two leading authorities in Honda transmissions on the site. Whatever they say should be ok. I'd still use Honda MTF, though. "thin" isn't necessarily bad. The clearances in the transmission are very tight.

If you're going to get 10w30 (or 10w40) oil, the Helms manual recommends that it be SF or SG grade oil.

mk378

I'm using a generic 10W40 conventional oil in mine. Thinner oil may get you a tiny bit better mpg.

lurice01

Pics show the snap ring. The case is sealed back together again. The input shaft is spinning good. Do you think that snap ring looks right? Looks expanded although the case is fully together. Must I drop it on concrete or whatever?

DumpdEJ6

Get a flat head screwdriver and lever the shaft up with it, it should snap into place. It is not currently in place from those pictures.