lurice01

ok i'm ok with the pilot bearing and flywheel, thanks.

i didn't try to trial fit the disk and bearing on the transmission shaft before putting the clutch onto the flywheel. I didn't think of it or read this soon enough.

I have transmission half way up to the engine and its way too hard. i have two jacks under the tranny and its like i need a third one. tranny keeps wobbling around. i got all sleepy and just left it on jacks until tomorrow. i need another person and i hate when i need another person. Any tricks for this part?

lurice01

ok i got the transmission back on the engine with help from a friend.

Now the upper tranny mount wont line back up to the tranny. its like the tranny is cocked to the front of the car and it needs to come back to the back of the car and up more to line up with the mount. I'm just gonna keep putting other bolts in and see if things start to line up...

lurice01

The new clutch solved the problem. got exedy stage 1 and fidanza flywheel. Now the omni power s2k cmc is super stiff. Its hard to pull out slowly sometimes.
i compared my oem cmc to my s2k cmc one more time and noticed they are the same length from end to end.
The only difference is the s2k cmc has about a half inch longer barrel part than the oem cmc - and so i guess s2k cmc push rod must be a little shorter, because all in all - the s2k cmc ends at the same distance that the oem cmc ends at.
Does that mean i need the spacer or not? I'm thinking i don't need the spacer because all in all they are the same length. (The barrel part is the cylinder part the push rod goes in to.)
Either way, i tested with no spacer by turning the bleeder valve on the Smc with no one pressing the clutch pedal and no fluid came out at all. But i could produce the same results using a spacer with the pushrod set a certain way.
I just dont want the s2k cmc to harm my new clutch.

lurice01

Bunp

tony_2018

Its better if you did.

tony_2018

Joking aside.

Please show pics of your findings. There is a reason why its required to seat the s2k cmc away from the firewall.

lurice01

So you know which is which, the stock cmc is the somewhat shorter silvery one, - and the omni-power s2k cmc is the dirty copper colored one.

so this time i when i measured i found the omni power s2k cmc to be a 1/4 inch longer than the stock.. - its not that obvious in all the pictures.
I could fix this with a few washers stacked to a 1/4 inch thickness.

The part the pushrod goes in to, is obviously longer on the omni-power s2k cmc.
I could fix this with the spacer which is like 1/2 an inch or so.

Which do you recommend? And what damage could be done by not doing it?

mk378

The important thing is that the piston has to be able to come all the way back to its stop inside the cylinder when the pedal is not pressed. The cylinder has to be mounted and the rod adjusted so there is no force on the rod with the pedal up.

What is the reason not to use a Civic cylinder?

lurice01

the omni s2k cmc has a shorter distance to press clutch pedal so its faster and better.

There has never been any force on the rod.

is there any other reason I would need the half inch thicker spacer?
Based on my pictures, do i need a spacer?

mk378

You should be good to go then.

You can use a combination of spacing the cylinder off the firewall and adjusting the clevis on the rod to take out the extra length. As far as how the mechanism works, there's no difference which you do.

lurice01

Thanks ..ok well that's what I thought but id also like to hear from tony 2018 since he wanted these pictures.

another issue: Even though I've installed the clutch kit, I still have a whining noise sometimes that disappears when i press in the clutch pedal. When i get down the road I don't notice it but later when in first it's whining, sometimes not, sometimes it starts in the middle of accelerating through 1st gear , gets quieter when i let off gas , then stops when i press down the clutch pedal.

- i was told before i did the clutch that it might be the ISB (intermediate shaft bearing) but since this my first time removing a transmission, and i was over budget, I didn't want to get in to all that.
sound like ISB to y'all?

mk378

Honda Automotive Parts

The bearing on the outside end of the input shaft, Part #12, is a weak link in these transmissions. It lasts about 150,000 miles. The rest of the transmission can last a very long time. The bearing is easy to replace while the transmission is out of the car. You don't have to take the whole gearbox apart, just open up the case and the bearing is right there.

What's with all these wacky abbreviations? There is no "intermediate shaft".

lurice01

Darn... I thought I replaced everything within reach at the time...
sorry about my abbreviations... i think i meant "internal shaft bearing"?
once i get back in there, does it just pull out or do i need a tool?
If i put off the repair too long, what would happen?

mk378

This bearing is INSIDE the transmission case. It is not in the clutch area. I don't see anything in the thread about taking the transmission apart.

If you let it get too bad, the transmission shaft may break, meaning the car won't go and the transmission is basically totaled.

lurice01

Right sorry, I know the bearing isn't in the clutch area. the bearing is on the same side/area as the throw-out bearing, around the transmission shaft. Thats where it looks like part #12 is in your pic link.

but again i do wish tony 2018 would join back in, he's the one who first suggested the noise was the ISB earlier in the thread,
tony 2018 said:
I believe that whining could either be the throwout bearing or the ISB

How exactly do i get the old part #12 bearing out and the new one in?

tony_2018

there is a special tool for that

google "inner bearing puller"

this requires the tranny case to be open.

mk378

Again, this bearing is INSIDE the transmission. It is nowhere near the throw-out bearing. It is on the opposite end of the shaft.

Drain the fluid and remove the transmission from the car.
Clean any major grime off of the outside of the transmission. In transmission work it is important not to get any grit inside since there is no oil filter. So keep the parts, your hands, and the work area clean.
Remove all the bolts with 12 mm heads that hold the transmission case halves together. Most are on the outside but there are 3 or 4 that face the other way from inside the bell housing.
Put the transmission on the workbench with the side that faces the engine down. Break the Hondabond seal and separate the case halves slightly. It is not going to come all the way off yet. DO NOT FORCE, see the next step.
Unscrew the round plug in what is now the top end (in the car, it would be on the right outside end) of the transmission. In the hole you will see two metal tabs, these are the ends of a snap ring. Use snap ring pliers or regular pliers pulling backwards to spread the tabs apart. Simultaneously, lift the case half off. This is much easier to do with two people.
Now you will see the bearing #12 on the top end of the input shaft. Remove it and put on a new one. I did not need a special tool, it just lifts off. This was however a 1991 D-series transmission which is almost the same as the later ones.
Make sure to keep and replace all the shim washers that are in the bore for the bearing in the case half. Some of them may be stuck to the old bearing.
Clean the mating surfaces and reassemble using Hondabond. There is no official gasket.

tony_2018

Yeah my post was about the ISB, the throw out bearing is on the fork, just need to remove the tranny and its the circle object that presses against the pressure plate.

lurice01

ok I totally understand now. I didn't fix isb when i did the clutch because it was my first time and over budget and didn't wanna do anything extra.

TONY, what did you think about the cmc comparison pics I posted up there????

lurice01

BUMP TONY 2018 or whoever..

reply #32 has pictures.

tony_2018

I was just curious at what you were talking about, about the cylinder.

The oem s2k is the same design, it pushes more fluid with a shorter stroke. It may be the same length but its still different in design.

lurice01

yea but what do you recommend?

tony_2018

If you aren't tracking, racing, keep the oem civic.

lurice01

Why? What could happen if I don't?

tony_2018

You ask for a recommendation. I gave it. if 6ou want to use the s2k go right ahead.