.Ry

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eg Yolk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice write up looks like i'll be doing this to the old accord </TD></TR></TABLE> Probably wont be the exact same, but it should give you a very good idea.

ct95eg

Stunna MIKE

Will the same flush with the hose as you used work with a Single CAM ZC? And the thermostat and everything? Same as A ZC ?

n20_b1tch

dudes this is a coolant flush its very very simple u shoulding be asking questions and if u are i highly doubt ur doing engine swaps and modifying cars i do this daily i mean daily this shouldnt have a write-up maybe i should make a write up about masterbating i do that daily too lol maybe i should make a writeup about building a motor cuh u guyz cant flush ur own coolant so ill help ya out makeing a newb writeup for d16z6 engine build up

.Ry

^^^^ Your the kind of member we dont want here. People come to this website to learn about how to work on their car. Maybe they just bought one and dont want to pay a shop to do it. Go find someone else to pick on.

kingc_c

how about write me some F20c or c32A build up? you seem like you know everything

dpkelly

You missed one important step in your writeup. You have to drain the coolant and all that water from the engine block. You see, the coolant spaces around the cylinders sit below the upper rad hose attachment to the block and also below the thermostat. By putting water in there, and then not draining it, you now have pure water sitting around the cylinders in the engine block. When you add your coolant, it is now being diluted by that water. After you flushed, you should have drained the block, that's all. And you should have drained it after you drained the radiator too.

Just add this step after pic # 11 where you show the thermostat removed:
"Unbolt the coolant drain plug on the engine block to remove the coolant from the engine block. Re-install the drain plug."

Then after pic # 17 where you show the thermostat installed:
"Unbolt the coolant drain plug again on the engine block to remove the tap water from the engine block. Re-install the drain plug."

Alot of people may be unknowingly diluting their 50/50 coolant mix with the tap water that's in the engine block.

Good write up though!

Elwuudz

nice write up I will use this soon. I only wish there was a garden hose in the shop I goto


ALSO if it seems like you cant fill the coolant up all the way

just cap the radiator and turn the car on for 30 sec and rev is low a few times this shakes the rad and hoses and forces coolant to move through the system hitting all the fins in ur rad and displacing air pockets in the coolant causing them to rise to the top and making more room for the good stuff

quickly shut off the car uncap the rad add a bit more till you hit your 4.5 litres or WEVTFII for that engine

I did this at night with no light no funnel for about a week treating a persistent IAC valve hose leak

consaka

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Getting the to the extreme basics, water will not clean everything, probably nothing depending on how long ur engine has been cleaned out properly. Seeing that water is a polar substances (based on the position of hydrogen atoms in comparison to the oxygen and the electronegativity differences), water will not clean out an engine that has built up deposits in the pipelines, dirt is non polar making water not attracted to the dirt particles. This makes water uneffective, its also why you use detergent on your clothes because the detergent creates a micelle structure around the dirt particles inbeded in the fibers of ur clothes, the polar heads of the detergent are attracted to water molecules that remove the stain. So, conclusively, a "detergent" should be used to clean out deposits in your coolant lines, for instance BG flush kits. .</TD></TR></TABLE>

The turbulence of the water running through does a decent job of grabbing extra crud floating and sometime not floating and flushing it from the system. Detergent is not going to do squat for anything that isnt oily anyway because that is really what detergent is designed to grab with the assistance of water. Those flush kits might help a little bit if you have big fluffy deposits on your radiator tubes but not for very long.. generally if your radiator is in good shape those expensive BG flush kits are a waste of money.
Of course if you think detergent is the ticket then add some dish soap or laundry detergent to the water going through. It wont hurt anything and who knows it might find some oil to dissolve, though you hope not.
I have heard you shouldnt mix the orange stuff(dexcool?) with the green stuff but not sure why. regardless of what the manufacturer says the orange stuff will not hurt any car. There are no critical seals that can be damaged in the water system. In fact the only real seals are the gasket for the thermostat, head gaskets, and the water pump seal is a carbon on carbon style disk I believe. At least the one I took apart was. And looking at the way it works really makes those additives that claim to lubricate it seem kinda silly. It really doesnt need any kind of maintenance. So pretty hard to damage seals in the water jacket anything incompatible with the rubber seals is going to be incompatible with the rubber hoses as well.

Good writeup by the way.. loved the pics.

em1foyo

yes im grave digging. can this DIY be followed with a 99 Civic Si exactly how this is done or is there some differences. I am really interested in doing it myself.

jwallstar

bout how long did the whole thing take...minutes? hours?

em1foyo

help anyone?can i just dump my coolant from the overflow tank? and fill that up?

B16b-EJ8

&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;

sageuvagony

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by em1foyoass &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">help anyone?can i just dump my coolant from the overflow tank? and fill that up?</TD></TR></TABLE>

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA no

ehonda1980

i was wondering if anyone knew where the coolant drain bolt, on the engine block, was located on a 92 civic dx sedan?

.Ry

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dpkelly &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You missed one important step in your writeup. You have to drain the coolant and all that water from the engine block. You see, the coolant spaces around the cylinders sit below the upper rad hose attachment to the block and also below the thermostat. By putting water in there, and then not draining it, you now have pure water sitting around the cylinders in the engine block. When you add your coolant, it is now being diluted by that water. After you flushed, you should have drained the block, that's all. And you should have drained it after you drained the radiator too.

Alot of people may be unknowingly diluting their 50/50 coolant mix with the tap water that's in the engine block.

Good write up though! </TD></TR></TABLE>

For sure, I guess when I did this I was not thinking about this. Whats funny is that I have to do this again so I am referring back to my OWN how to thread, and I will be sure to do this.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jwallstar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bout how long did the whole thing take...minutes? hours?</TD></TR></TABLE> Let's see, I think about 2.5 hours. I took way longer than it should, stopping to take pictures, torquing the bolts, and I did some other things I did not show. This should normally take no longer than an hour and a half.

Im not trying to bump my old thread I could care less, just trying to follow up.

h2392si

Excellent info.

ke98248

iTrader: (1)

I'm doing this today, looks good man. It will help me out

A_Rotary_Guy

Well, I hate to bump this again, but there are quite a few missing factors in this.

First of all, water does do a good job to help clean things out. For one it's going to help push all the old coolant out of the block, heater core passanges, and radiator. A good item to use to actually clean all of the deposits out of the radiator is Prestone Radiator Flush. Basically you fill the cooling system with plain water and add the flush, then let the car run and circulate the cleaner. This causes the deposits to float in the water, then by opening the drain plugs, drain all of the deposits and water out.

The problem is that most people think by just opening the petcock on the radiator that all the coolant is going to drain out. That's wrong. What you need to do is use the drain plug in the block in addition to the drain plug in the radiator. This will make it possible to drain ALL of the coolant. The BG cooling system flush machine does work, but the only advantage to using it is the fact that it doesn't make as big of a mess. It uses the new coolant to push the old coolant out of the cooling system basically. This isn't needed since opening the drain plug on the block and opening the radiator petcock will drain everything out anyways. You have to dump the BG cooling system flush into the cooling system with the old coolant and run it through just like the Prestone stuff, only that you use a machine to push the old stuff out instead of doing it manually.

Good job on mentioning cleaning out the overflow tank and setting your climate control on the hottest setting in defrost. The overflow tank actually does a pretty decent job of catching the **** floating in your coolant, which you will easily see once you clean it out. Setting the climate control on hottest setting in defrost will open up the heater core passages, allowing the coolant to be flushed out of there as well. And yes, you do want the car to be running while doing this. Just make sure that you're not running the water pump dry (nothing in the cooling system) because this will damage it, much in the same way with running the car without oil and damaging the oil pump.

Cooling system flushes are a VERY good thing to do, as they will prolong the life of the cooling system components. Generally, most of the cooling manufactured today is long life coolant (5 years or 100,000 miles). It used to be that everyone basically used the green coolant, which was 3 years or 50,000 miles. Nowadays you have a few different types of long life coolant - Dexcool (orange, GM ONLY) and Mopar Extended Life coolant (pinkish color, Chrysler, Jeep, and Dodge), just to name a couple. I know that a few manufacturers use a blue coolant, but I haven't had any experience with that yet. The green coolant is sort-of behind the times now, seeing as how Prestone extended life (yellow jug) coolant replaces it in any vehicle. But yes, make sure you do NOT use the wrong type of coolant for your car. You will corrode the coolant system using the wrong stuff. Basically, if your car uses green coolant, any green coolant or Prestone will work. If your car uses long life coolant, make sure you get the appropriate kind.

Sorry for the long post, but I just wanted to try and dispel some of the crap that people have been posting up here. Also, what the expletive is with the guy saying to run dish soap or laundry detergent through the coolant system and thinking it won't harm anything? Give me a damn break...

import2ner

when is it time to change the thermostat and flush it out?is there specific things i should be lookin for?i would like to try this

Dramier

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by A_Rotary_Guy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I know that a few manufacturers use a blue coolant, but I haven't had any experience with that yet. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That manufacturer using the blue stuff, ironically would be Honda Type 2. As seen here:


I take it you don't work on Hondas.

This is an excellent write-up, but it should also mention some other things...

For instance, while you are pulling all those hoses off, make sure there are no oil leaks around those hoses either in the past or currently. An oil soaked coolant hose will swell and eventually split or break entirely, usually along the clamp's edge. Replace any hose that is swollen at the clamp ASAP. Also, if you have aftermarket or coolant hoses not specific to your car installed, make sure you don't have any crimps in them. A heater hose that's bent at too tight of an angle will create a restriction that could lead to overheating.

Also, if you are using your yard's garden hose to flush out the block, make SURE the end of the hose is clean and free of dirt! Alot of folks just toss a garden hose in the yard, and it can make a divot in the dirt. That divot ends up lodged inside the end of the hose just enough that it doesn't come out until you turn on the water. You don't want that inside your engine!

Be careful in which antifreeze you buy as well. Make sure the temperature ratings are sufficient for you current weather conditions. I have seen the occasional wrong temperature rating antifreeze sitting on a shelf. Here in Texas we rarely have very cold winters, so an antifreeze with an extreme cold rating kind of stuck out like a sore thumb. Hope this helps.

A_Rotary_Guy

Haha, yea, I haven't had much work on newer Honda vehicles. The only Honda vehicles I've worked on so far were running the usual green coolant. Also, a couple of the newer Volkswagen vehicles I worked on were running a blue coolant also, not sure if it's a completely different type than the Honda Type 2 or what the deal is (I don't work at a Honda dealership - Chrysler/Jeep/Dodge/Kia). You bring up some other good points that I forgot to cover about using the hose and checking the coolant hoses for swelling or leaks.

Basically, you will want to replace the thermostat every time you flush out your cooling system. The reason for this is because you already have the coolant drained out, so why not just go the extra step and the extra 15 bucks for a thermostat and gasket? This is the way I've always thought of it. Like I said before, if you're using the green coolant, you'll want to change it every 3 years or 50,000 miles. If you have extended life coolant, you'll be looking at 5 years or 100,000 miles. But if you're looking for ways to tell you need a flush, all you really need to do is open the coolant overflow. If there's any particles of stuff floating in the bottle or the coolant is off what the normal color is (usually a brownish color indicates worn out coolant) you'll want to flush it and re-fill.

Spoonson

thanks and i'll do it tmr~

401tuner

good stuff man, ill be doing this very soon because my thermostat is bad

clem kevin

is it not necessary to bleed the coolant system?