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180 hp and those d15 rods will be crying, 250 is crazy talk. You could have started piecing together a homemade turbo kit instead of buying that intake manifold, it is a pretty piece but i would boost the stock motor till it blows up and you will learn how to tune in the process, no sense in rebuilding it if it isn't burning oil! Then you can decide if you want to step up to the d16 or another transplant and build a motor. I have been out of the honda game for a while but back when the d series was at its height there were 0 manufacturers that would sell a d15 aftermarket rod. Has this changed?
I've been toying around with the d series for around 15 years, I/H/E is a complete waste of money, you can look online and see 20+ years of people wasting thousands of dollars on NA bolt ons for the D. Turbo, Turbo, Turbo!
180 hp and those d15 rods will be crying, 250 is crazy talk. You could have started piecing together a homemade turbo kit instead of buying that intake manifold, it is a pretty piece but i would boost the stock motor till it blows up and you will learn how to tune in the process, no sense in rebuilding it if it isn't burning oil! Then you can decide if you want to step up to the d16 or another transplant and build a motor. I have been out of the honda game for a while but back when the d series was at its height there were 0 manufacturers that would sell a d15 aftermarket rod. Has this changed?
I've been toying around with the d series for around 15 years, I/H/E is a complete waste of money, you can look online and see 20+ years of people wasting thousands of dollars on NA bolt ons for the D. Turbo, Turbo, Turbo!
Have fun!
Thanks! Please refer to my first 3 posts in this thread though. Lol
I have been out of the honda game for a while but back when the d series was at its height there were 0 manufacturers that would sell a d15 aftermarket rod. Has this changed?
If my understanding is correct, if it's the D15B vtec, then it should have the same journal sizes as the D16Z6.
Then for the smaller journal D15B8/7/2 you can buy forged rods for the D15B2 that fit. They are forged in China but allegedly by ISO 9002 certified manufacturers.
Searching amazon.com for "d15b2 rod" provides this:
If my understanding is correct, if it's the D15B vtec, then it should have the same journal sizes as the D16Z6.
Then for the smaller journal D15B8/7/2 you can buy forged rods for the D15B2 that fit. They are forged in China but allegedly by ISO 9002 certified manufacturers.
I have come across the maxspeed rods a time or 2. Found some from Topline as well. Just OE replacements but they are a bit beefier than the originals. Searched around for some turbos that would suit my build. If my math was correct, I need a flow rate of 18-22 lb/min. This gives me a few options and I chose the GT2252. I originally wanted a disco potato (Gt2860RS) but it would still be a bit much for my goal. I LOVE LOVE LOVE the spool up on a T25 though, so I am still happy with my choice; virtually zero lag, and there are some that would put me in the 300 range should I choose to cross that bridge.
So far it's looking like a bottom end, (rods, rings, maybe pistons), top end springs, retainers, maybe a valve grind and port/polish.. Not sure.. A6 cam (this may be soon), and the GT2252.
I figure 10psi would put me well within range of my goal, if not on or over it.
An update.. Had a mishap the other day with my wideband sensor cable, it decided to cozy up to the exhaust and melt a bit. So, threw in the P28 while waiting for my replacement to arrive. Ordered that and went ahead and ordered a clutch/flywheel combo. XTD set with 10lb flywheel. That should be here some time this week. Hopefully I'll have it installed by this weekend. Cable should be here any time now so that will be redone tomorrow. I will use an extra ziptie this time....
Here's a bit of the havoc.. First shot is the damn melt spot. I have to say, if you ever ask yourself, "should I add one more the down or is this ok?" Chances are, you really need another and really should apply it.. 5 cents could have saved me 30 freaking bucks... Second shot was an attempt at a repair. The wires were interesting to say the least. 5 of them shielded and one with noooo insulation, but wrapped in the shield. I separated and soldered, then rewrapped (No final shot of that part). I managed to get it working but decided it would be MUCH safer for me to stop being a cheap *** and just order a new cable, so I did. It came in today but it was storming all afternoon and I'd already been in that most of the day doing the suspension on a friend's charger r/t, so i decided to stay dry the remainder of the afternoon. Tomorrow I can hope for better weather so I can reroute the wideband and get my Neptune ecu back in.
Here's a bit of the havoc.. First shot is the damn melt spot. I have to say, if you ever ask yourself, "should I add one more the down or is this ok?" Chances are, you really need another and really should apply it.. 5 cents could have saved me 30 freaking bucks... Second shot was an attempt at a repair. The wires were interesting to say the least. 5 of them shielded and one with noooo insulation, but wrapped in the shield. I separated and soldered, then rewrapped (No final shot of that part). I managed to get it working but decided it would be MUCH safer for me to stop being a cheap *** and just order a new cable, so I did. It came in today but it was storming all afternoon and I'd already been in that most of the day doing the suspension on a friend's charger r/t, so i decided to stay dry the remainder of the afternoon. Tomorrow I can hope for better weather so I can reroute the wideband and get my Neptune ecu back in.
next time you make a wiring repair like this, it's best to shrink tube each wire after you solder.
next time you make a wiring repair like this, it's best to shrink tube each wire after you solder.
The main purpose I did what I did is because I was "informed" it would not work. It did. I didn't feel comfortable leaving it in the condition it was in, so I ordered a new one. Thanks for the input though
Woohoo!! Tomorrow is clutch/flywheel install day. Went with stage 3 since it is allegedly good for up to 300hp, I figure that'll will certainly cover my end goal plus. The flywheel advertised as 10 lbs actually weighed in on both my scales at 8.4 lbs. Bonus for me i suppose. I'll update with install pics once I start getting it in there.
Finally got to that bastard! Thankfully I have recently acquired some air tools because this would have REALLY sucked. 4 hours to get to this point and remove the clutch and flywheel. A tad longer than I expected but I AM trying to be careful. Taking a little break with some A/C and iced tea, then the new setup goes in..
So I had a bit of a hiccup in this process. I CAN NOT seem to get the transmission stabbed.. I tried for about 3.5 more hours on that alone and finally gave up after super dark-30. Work today kills any chances of making another go at it til after 3:30 pm.
Maybe approach to it entirely? Just a matter of "wiggle it just a little bit"? As seen in the pic, the clutch disc is aligned very nicely with the pilot bearing (I was slightly angled when I took the pic, but it is good). The only thing for me to do is pull the clutch off again and check to see if it is just not riding the splines properly. While possible, that scenario isn't super probable.
Any other thoughts? Transmission was in neutral when I pulled it, can't really think of anything else myself at the moment.
I was able to resolve the tranny stab today. Guess I was just exhausted last night. Love the stage 3 XTD. PLENTY grab and light flywheel, 8.4 lbs vs 17 lb stock, acceleration is noticeably better. I didn't realize how much my old one was actually slipping until today..
I was able to resolve the tranny stab today. Guess I was just exhausted last night. Love the stage 3 XTD. PLENTY grab and light flywheel, 8.4 lbs vs 17 lb stock, acceleration is noticeably better. I didn't realize how much my old one was actually slipping until today..
Glad to hear you got it licked!
How difficult is it to separate the tranny with the engine still in the car?
Sorting info REALLY sucks.. Finding old crap with dead projects and info that seems nondescript. Can't find many definitive answers on the **** I'm looking for.
So I am exploring a couple other options. I am now looking into swapping to a Z6 block and keeping the B7 head (I really don't wanna mess with tuning VTEC). It has come to my attention that I live about an hour away from a surplus of Z6 engines, and short blocks go for 100 bucks each. Swapping blocks is easy enough, I gotta do a crazy trick with the oil jet but found great info on that to help along.. Trying to find info on where my compression would be with that combo. Still lookin'... Anywho.. That gives me better options for internals and keeping me non-VTEC.
Was the other person's fault entirely and I had witnesses that left contact info for insurance. They settled quite quickly. With money from that, i decided it was time to get a round of upgrade **** in.
Replacing damaged items, obviously, and a huge chunk of the suspension.. Minus sway bars and shocks. Those will come later.
New fenders, headlights, and tail lights. I ordered a full body kit against my own likes but it was cost effective for what I needed and the cash to spend on it. Who knows, much like the paint, I may get used to it.
Needing to paint the kit, I've contemplated REALLY hard about just repainting the entire car. I dunno. Lots of work I don't have time for currently and again, I've gotten used to it. Lol.
Anywho.. Install pics to come in a couple days or so. Stay tuned!
Wow. Didn't realize I hadn't updated the fix after this. With the insurance payout, I was able to redo all my suspension; front and rear control arms, upper and lower (camber control), upper and lower swaybars front and rear, body kit, fenders, coilovers.
I've learned that I do NOT live in an area that is kind to lowered vehicles. Upon install of my coilovers, I had to raise them up considerably. I'm just a bit lower than stock, maybe inch or so drop. All the suspension work has made this a super fun car to drive. It handles curves like a champ, and the coilovers are not as harsh as I originally expected. Pics now!
The first shot is after coilover install. Second is all the other suspension parts and rear subframe brace. Last is a better shot of the front bumper. I went round and round with Extreme Dimensions over this kit and will NEVER do business with them again. So many gaps that shouldn't be, due to lousy fitment. I'm gonna need so much extra fiberglass work to make the parts proper. I went through 3 sets of fenders before i finally got a set that would even remotely fit or wasn't broken upon arrival. I was supoosed to be given a refund because the 3rd set fit, but was still cracked; that never happened.
As far as the engine goes, I finally got my tune to a nice place.. Only took me about a year of street tuning.. I've had hell getting my midrange to a comfy spot but finally.. I've got a short video from a rolling start, about 40 mph, to 80. I had to back off at that point due to running out of straight road, but in my opinion, it was a nice run. Boost is coming soon. I've pieced together what I'm after and now awaiting my tax return to finish this project.
Updates here as the parts come in!
So after loads of researching MANY aspects, I have dialed in the rest of the build. I'm deciding to keep the B7, so that will be rebuilt. I have intentions on going past my originally intended power goal, but not at first, so I am going with beefier bottom end components than OE.
Maxpeeding rods for the B2, these are 134.5mm so a few changes needed to be made. Have to go with different pistons. These will be the PG6 piston from the A6. Found some Nippon teflon coated PG6 pistons with rings by hastings. Cometic MLS head gasket 0.056 will put my compression at 10:1. Top end should be fine as it is a 95 and 99% likely to have A6 springs, so am covered there. I see no reason right now to rebuild the head anyways. So.. Bottom end build and will go with a 50 trim to4e. .50 a/r compressor, .63 a/r exhaust. Will be running at 10psi and this should give me good power from 3k - 7500 rpm with peak boost at 6k (if I did the math right).
Kit is coming from CX racing. All research done on "budget" kits up to this point, this is the best option. I WILL be upgrading the turbo and wastegate later down the road. I am not looking to go higher than about 200whp at this point because i'm not upgrading my map or fuel system yet. That depends on the final decision on the next turbo. (Currently planning a PTE 5431). My largets bottleneck here is the 1.5l engine.
I've run some tests and based on my data, I am running at 97% VE which is fantastic, but narrowing the window on the turbo I can run to reach the power I would like to get to without further modification to my block; sleeves, etc.. Can't wait to get this show on the road!
I dont understand the fast n furious bodykit. But as long as you like it, thats all it matter. Goodluck with the build, restore, etc..
I'm not big on body kits either. They are really just.. Blah. I got it because the front bumper was damaged, the side skirt and fender was damaged. It was cheaper to order a kit that would AT LEAST give it some sort of attitude than it was to order stock parts. It's grown on me. lol! It kinda works with the cosmetic theme; looks like hell, but runs like a champ! To note: I have actually noticed a difference in running temps with that front bumper vs stock. My engine temp and IAT average about 8 deg cooler than with my stock bumper.
03-01-2017, 06:11 PM
Re: EG first impression, goals and build plan.
