sparq

I checked my book, but its a Haynes and basically tells you to remove the motor just unbolt it... if youve ever read one you know what im talking about. Well for the clutch bleed it says to fill up the brake fluid container, remove the dust cover, hookup a few inches of hose to the nipple and pump away (basically the same as a brake bleed) is that all there is to it? Do you think thats the problem...


1992 Honda Civic

leadfoot78

With the nipple closed and reseivior full of fluid pump the clutch pedal till it builds pressure, if the pedal doesn't come back up lift it up and keep doing it till u feel pressure, it might take more than 5 minutes of constant pumping. After u have pressure, make some one depress the pedal and then u put the hose on the nipple into a container filled with new fluid and open the nipple(stuff will come out), close the nipple and tell the other person to release the pedal, it probably wont go up, repeat the process around 3 times.

monicle

no.. how you bleed the clutch is this. find the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder. have someone push the pedal down and hold it, open the bleeder, close the bleeder, have them let off the clutch. do this 2 times and then refil the resivoir. do that cycle about 5 or 6 times and you should be good.

IS3Fifty

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by monicle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no.. how you bleed the clutch is this. find the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder. have someone push the pedal down and hold it, open the bleeder, close the bleeder, have them let off the clutch. do this 2 times and then refil the resivoir. do that cycle about 5 or 6 times and you should be good.</TD></TR></TABLE>

good tech!

sparq

Car up on jack stands right?

Like the car has SOME pressure, it comes back up... but you can tell its not right - ive tried pumping it a good 30 times or so and it still wasnt back to normal pressure, ill try pumping it like a mad man for 5 minutes... maybe it will come back...

leadfoot78

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by monicle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no.. how you bleed the clutch is this. find the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder. have someone push the pedal down and hold it, open the bleeder, close the bleeder, have them let off the clutch. do this 2 times and then refil the resivoir. do that cycle about 5 or 6 times and you should be good.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats just what I told him to do. You should read the whole post before saying what I wrote is wrong. Thats how I bleed my ACT extreme P plate and 6puck and it worked fine.

clm

You guys can do it how you want, but this is how I did mine a couple weeks ago.

Materials: Brake bleeding bottle kit and brake fluid

Process:
1.) Open the clutch fluid resivoure
2.) Take the dust cap off the bleeder and turn it just a 1/4"
3.) Connect bleeding hose
4.) Pump clutch slowly up and down
5.) Fill fluid resivoure when low - don't let air in
6.) Do steps 4 and 5 until new fluid comes through
7.) Steps 3, 2, and 1 reversed

And if you can't find the bleeding nipple (it took me a while to find it and get confirmation from a friend), it's in the front of the transmission and block.

g_man80

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Materials: Brake bleeding bottle kit and brake fluid

Process:
1.) Open the clutch fluid resivoure
2.) Take the dust cap off the bleeder and turn it just a 1/4"
3.) Connect bleeding hose
4.) Pump clutch slowly up and down
5.) Fill fluid resivoure when low - don't let air in
6.) Do steps 4 and 5 until new fluid comes through
7.) Steps 3, 2, and 1 reversed

And if you can't find the bleeding nipple (it took me a while to find it and get confirmation from a friend), it's in the front of the transmission and block.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just as a heads up. I'm not sure if the brake bleeding kit you got has a one way valve, but in my experience the bleeder should be closed before pumping the clutch. If this isn't done then air could reenter and create more work. IMO. it's open bleeder, push clutch down and hold, close bleeder, then pump, open, push clutch to floor and hold, close, pump (add fluid when level becomes low).

This is a two person operation unless you have a self bleeding kit which allows you to leave the bleeder open.

clm

That never occured to me. I do have a one-way bleeder kit. Totally worth it, though since it only costs a few dollars from AutoZone.

g_man80

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That never occured to me. I do have a one-way bleeder kit. Totally worth it, though since it only costs a few dollars from AutoZone.</TD></TR></TABLE>
cool . I keep telling myself to get one of those, but it doesn't occur to me until I have the car on stands and the wheel off.

95hbMatt

Yup, I used a "One Man Bleeder Kit" that can be bought at Autozone for $4.99....I bled my lines with it when I did my auto to manual swap and it's working great!!

sparq

Also about air re-entering, couldnt you just fill up the cup with a little fluid first so the hose is under it... just like your supposed to do when you bleed your brakes?

95hbMatt

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sparq &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also about air re-entering, couldnt you just fill up the cup with a little fluid first so the hose is under it... just like your supposed to do when you bleed your brakes?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, exactly! That's what I forgot to add....the kit that I bought came with a little bottle and I just put a little fluid in it till the tube inside was submerged...