b18c swapped ek hard to start!?!?
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b18c swapped ek hard to start!?!?
Ok so I have an ek with a b18c swap running obd1 p72 untouched....Car has been fine for almost 20k miles but now i've gone through a string of events as of late. So here's the scoop:
-a couple weeks ago I got some bad gas, and I mean it had to be terrible! I drove right in, filled up with 93 and when I left the car was shaking, sputtering, trying to die, the whole 9! I put Iso-Heat and octane booster in it as well as new NGKs and wires (NAPA Premium line, they're Blue, i'm still suspecting these) and that helped a tad, but nothing special!
-I drove it long enough to get 5 gallons of new 93 in it, after about 25 miles the car seemed to level back out to a normal condition for the most part. Well...I went to get in the car and go to work and it wouldn't start, didn't even sound like it was firing! I pulled the coil and put one in from another spare dizzy, car started right up but had major issues with consistent acceleration, it would stop accelerating, almost like the car was off for a few seconds and if i'd floor it that seemed to take it away, not good! So i put a brand new ICM in the car.
-last weekend the car wouldn't start 20min after I got out of it, cold it started, warmed up it wouldn't start. So.....I put another new set of plugs in it, new cap/rotor. It had sat at least an hour at the auto part store so after installing these it started but the problem continued so I re-set the base ignition timing, but I'm still having issues with the car starting after being driven!
* I have not changed out my fuel filter since the bad gas, do you think the filter could be clogged and the car not getting enough fuel to start? If I got bad gas that was just water logged it would go through the filter/injectors just fine and shouldn't have given me an issue anymore.
*Also, I know the fuel pump is stock, but I haven't checked fuel pressure, but could the pump be going bad? I have a b20b coming and I don't want to put it in and have these same issues. I assumed it would go away with a new engine/ecu but i'd like to know first. Things i've done:
1.) verified i'm getting a nice clean white spark from cap into the plugs
2.) base timing is set correctly with light
3.) new ignition components, plugs/wires/cap/rotor
4.) 180psi across all cylinders
*** car runs/idles like a dream after start-up when its running!!!!! Any INPUT!!! I've searched for this crap and it always comes back with things that I've done or not exactly my issue!
-a couple weeks ago I got some bad gas, and I mean it had to be terrible! I drove right in, filled up with 93 and when I left the car was shaking, sputtering, trying to die, the whole 9! I put Iso-Heat and octane booster in it as well as new NGKs and wires (NAPA Premium line, they're Blue, i'm still suspecting these) and that helped a tad, but nothing special!
-I drove it long enough to get 5 gallons of new 93 in it, after about 25 miles the car seemed to level back out to a normal condition for the most part. Well...I went to get in the car and go to work and it wouldn't start, didn't even sound like it was firing! I pulled the coil and put one in from another spare dizzy, car started right up but had major issues with consistent acceleration, it would stop accelerating, almost like the car was off for a few seconds and if i'd floor it that seemed to take it away, not good! So i put a brand new ICM in the car.
-last weekend the car wouldn't start 20min after I got out of it, cold it started, warmed up it wouldn't start. So.....I put another new set of plugs in it, new cap/rotor. It had sat at least an hour at the auto part store so after installing these it started but the problem continued so I re-set the base ignition timing, but I'm still having issues with the car starting after being driven!
* I have not changed out my fuel filter since the bad gas, do you think the filter could be clogged and the car not getting enough fuel to start? If I got bad gas that was just water logged it would go through the filter/injectors just fine and shouldn't have given me an issue anymore.
*Also, I know the fuel pump is stock, but I haven't checked fuel pressure, but could the pump be going bad? I have a b20b coming and I don't want to put it in and have these same issues. I assumed it would go away with a new engine/ecu but i'd like to know first. Things i've done:
1.) verified i'm getting a nice clean white spark from cap into the plugs
2.) base timing is set correctly with light
3.) new ignition components, plugs/wires/cap/rotor
4.) 180psi across all cylinders
*** car runs/idles like a dream after start-up when its running!!!!! Any INPUT!!! I've searched for this crap and it always comes back with things that I've done or not exactly my issue!
Last edited by Leland; 01-28-2015 at 03:58 PM.
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Icm
When youre ignitor heat soaks it fails
Are you checking spark when its hot? Or cold? Or both times?
5 things to start a motor
Air
Fuel
Compression
Timing
Spark
You gotta check for those when its NOT starting
When youre ignitor heat soaks it fails
Are you checking spark when its hot? Or cold? Or both times?
5 things to start a motor
Air
Fuel
Compression
Timing
Spark
You gotta check for those when its NOT starting
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Re: b18c swapped ek hard to start!?!?
Turbohatch please read the entire OP, it states the icm was already replaced with new, as well as cap, rotor, plugs, wires. Also around here the diesel pump heads are larger to keep you from putting them into a car. Either way that would rule out the case of a clogged fuel filter (sediments from bottom of tank at station after being re fueled by tanker)...car has been checked for spark hot yes.
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Turbohatch please read the entire OP, it states the icm was already replaced with new, as well as cap, rotor, plugs, wires. Also around here the diesel pump heads are larger to keep you from putting them into a car. Either way that would rule out the case of a clogged fuel filter (sediments from bottom of tank at station after being re fueled by tanker)...car has been checked for spark hot yes.
You expect me to read that entire wall of text?
Learn how to form a structured post then ill read the entire thing.
Until then at the very least post some cliffs of what you checked.
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Actually.........you need to read it again. He didn't put a new, he put in a "known" good one from another distributor. OP, you're just throwing money at it. Do some decent diagnostics on the distributor, to find out how check the FAQs at the top of the thread and prepare DMM to use with it.
Wtf?
He is the op
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Re: b18c swapped ek hard to start!?!?
I wouldn't consider myself throwing money at it, the ICM WAS BAD, I replaced it. And the engine has about 80-90k and was do for the cap/rotor, etc.
*turbohatch if you want to contribute to this thread great, READ IT ALL, If not don't waste your time suggesting things that have been done and it's has been said it was done, that's a waste for you and I.
*turbohatch if you want to contribute to this thread great, READ IT ALL, If not don't waste your time suggesting things that have been done and it's has been said it was done, that's a waste for you and I.
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I doubt when the motor doesnt want to start youre getting
Fuel
Compression
timing
Air
Spark
The motor would start if it did
Report back when you figure out which one its not getting.
Did you do a compression test with the motor hot? Or cold?
Have you checked youre main relay? The solder joints inside the relay.
Fuel
Compression
timing
Air
Spark
The motor would start if it did
Report back when you figure out which one its not getting.
Did you do a compression test with the motor hot? Or cold?
Have you checked youre main relay? The solder joints inside the relay.
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Re: b18c swapped ek hard to start!?!?
Turbohatch96y7: I didn't think about the main relay, its been an issue in the past with ef's but I wasn't aware that ek's experienced the kinda issues the ef's did.
-I did not check the compression on the cylinders when the engine was up to temp. it is def. something worth doing!
-Timing was set at 16' as called for, that's is ok as well
-fuel pump primes every time, but that doesn't mean I don't have a clogged filter or injector from the bad gas...I will be changing the fuel filter tomorrow.
-with engine running i'm getting a very nice white spark, but I will verify that once again before checking compression after car is warmed
*Note: you can hear a distinct difference when you are turning a car over and it is firing or not firing, but I am going to re-verify that tomorrow as well...Thanks for the suggestions thus far! Leland
-I did not check the compression on the cylinders when the engine was up to temp. it is def. something worth doing!
-Timing was set at 16' as called for, that's is ok as well
-fuel pump primes every time, but that doesn't mean I don't have a clogged filter or injector from the bad gas...I will be changing the fuel filter tomorrow.
-with engine running i'm getting a very nice white spark, but I will verify that once again before checking compression after car is warmed
*Note: you can hear a distinct difference when you are turning a car over and it is firing or not firing, but I am going to re-verify that tomorrow as well...Thanks for the suggestions thus far! Leland
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Re: b18c swapped ek hard to start!?!?
No cels and yes it works. I think it's a fuel related issue as tonight as long as I was giving it has driving it was fine but it stalled once. I think the filter needs changed, then on to the pump if that doesn't work.
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Re: b18c swapped ek hard to start!?!?
UPDATE!!! Problem solved. I decided to check the grounds and added jumper cables to two spots on the engine back to the (-) battery terminal and car fired just like it should, every time...Issue was a ground, assuming the valvecover ground wasn't performing as should based on the trans and thermostat grounds being cleaned well and checked...Thanks to anyone that had input and this goes to show that a car that has air/spark/fuel/compression DOES NOT ALWAYS START!!!!
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UPDATE!!! Problem solved. I decided to check the grounds and added jumper cables to two spots on the engine back to the (-) battery terminal and car fired just like it should, every time...Issue was a ground, assuming the valvecover ground wasn't performing as should based on the trans and thermostat grounds being cleaned well and checked...Thanks to anyone that had input and this goes to show that a car that has air/spark/fuel/compression DOES NOT ALWAYS START!!!!
No it doesnt
You were missing something
The ground to the main relay was probably your problem
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Re: b18c swapped ek hard to start!?!?
Turbohatch: do you have a fb account? Look me up, Leland Ward, I'm in Ohio and would like to go in depth with your accusation so I can figure out what I missed. By no means am I saying I am an expert, just stating it seems to be doing better although I don't think im completely out of the woods. Pm me there it's much easier for me. Leland
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