Rookiewrench

I have a 98 Honda Civic Ex Sedan.

My car shut off while driving down the road and after that would not start. I had it towed to mechanic who said it was the distributor. I was on the fence about fixing the car and was just wanting a diagnosis. Their diagnosis was distributor which is in my limited arsenal of things I've done before. So I replaced the distributor based on the diagnosis. After replacing the distributor I have no spark. Engine Cranks fine but No Spark and no Tach. Let me list my steps thus far in troubleshooting.

I checked that the Rotor was spinning when car cranked by removing the cap and cranking.

I then checked for 12v at the connector the distributor connects to and it was there.

I checked for power and had it on the wire going into the coil.

I checked that the Main Relay was clicking and the Fuel Pump was priming and it is.

I tried to pull the code from the computer but the reader just said error. I tried to get the CEL codes by jumping the little blue deal but that didn't produce anything. I have solid check engine light at all times.

I tested all of the wires and connections coming out of the ignition switch and I checked all fuses.

As I understand it my ignition goes in this order -->CPK --> ECU --> ICU --> Coil --> Rotor --> Spark Plug Wire --> Spark Plug

I have a new distributor (I even bought another new one when the first one didn't work) so my ICU -->Rotor is all new.

This Post seems like my issue exactly but I am unsure how to perform some of these tests to the wiring. I was wondering if someone could literally spell out the way I would do the tests as described in the linked post.

Thanks for reading. This has been a pretty fun deep dive into my car and this is literally my first car forum post so go easy if I left anything out.

~ Rookiewrench

grant97teg

Either get a junk yard ecu or get a wiring schematic and start checking your resistance

Rookiewrench

Could you please give me a quick tutorial on the resistance testing the wires

Former User

Check whether fuse 9 and/or 43 is blown.

What kind of distributor did you buy. Civics don't do well with aftermarket distributors.

grant97teg

Well first you need a volt meter, set it to ohms, and what ur doing is measuring from one point to the other to see if there's a open (OL) in that wire. Or if you have say .05 or less u don't have much resistance threw the wire.

Rookiewrench

Fuse 9 is good.

grant97teg

Power on both sides of the fuse?

Former User

Make sure voltage gets inside the distributor. Remove the cap, rotor, and inner cover and then check whether the Blk/Yel wire attached to the coil and ICM has battery voltage with the key in ON(II).

Also check hood fuse 43. If it's blown the code reader won't connect.

Former User

This^ is the best way to know whether a fuse is blown.

sohcboost06

definitely sounds like some sort of fuse/relay

Rookiewrench

When I tested the coil with the key set to ON (II) I had 12v to the black and Yellow Wire. I also had power on the Green and Yellow Wire coming into the ICU when touching one probe to ground and the other to the wire with the key to ON (II). The Blue and White Wire also had 12v

Former User

What voltage did you measure at the Yel/Grn wire?

The voltage at the Yel/Grn wire attached to the ICM should reach ECU A20. Does it?

Rookiewrench

It was 12v as well or 11.xx something close to 12. How do I test if the power is getting back to plug A20? Do I disconnect the plug on the ECU and measure that spot for the voltage on the plug?

Former User

Yes

Rookiewrench

OK I'm going to wait for the sun to come up again and hit it first thing in the am. I'll post my findings. Any next steps either way if I find power to A20 then I? and if no power to A20 then I must have a short or open right and I'd need to find that? PS thanks for all your help and non condescension for a beginner

Former User

I just noticed that your ECU is throwing CEL code 0, which is when the CEL remains on steady both with and without the service connector jumped. Though this may indicate a bad ECU, the first step is to check whether the ECU receives proper voltage and ground.

Did you check whether hood fuse 43 is blown?

Rookiewrench

Whats the best way to check if the ECU is receiving voltage and Ground? It occurred to me that it might be code 0 but I am unsure as how to check the ECU for voltage and Ground. I did look at G101 on the thermostat and it is still attached. Can you offer some guidance on how do check if the ECU is grounded and receiving proper voltage. Also should I proceed with the A20 wire test or is this a change in course.

Former User

Tomorrow I'll post what ECU terminals you need to test for code 0.

You can still test A20 for voltage, though code 0 takes precedence now.

Also test fuse 43.

Rookiewrench

Sounds good, I'll test it this evening, after I get your post.

Former User

Start here:

1) Unplug the fuel injector and IACV connectors, as well as ECU connector A. Turn the key to ON(II), and measure voltage to body ground at ECU connector A terminals A11 and A24 that pin to Yel/Blk wires. Do you measure battery voltage?

2) Turn the key off, and measure resistance/continuity to body ground at ECU connector A terminals A9 and A22 that pin to Brn/Blk wires. Post either the Ohm readings or whether there is continuity.

Rookiewrench

I know where connector A is but is the connection to the injector and the IACV connector at the ECU as well?

Former User

Not the ECU -- These connectors attach directly to these components (fuel injectors on fuel rail, IACV on TB or IM).

Rookiewrench

so just to define the terms does IACV = Idle air control Valve, IM= Intake Manifold, TB= throttle body

Former User

TB = throttle body

fiveten

The check engine light should turn on, the pcm will do a self check and then turn off. If the light stays on there is a power ground problem or the pcm is bad. Check for power with the ign. on at pcm connector A11 and A24 (yel/Blk wire color) and check to make sure you have ground at A9 and A22 (brown/Blk wire color). If the power and grounds are good you have a bad pcm. If they are not trace the wires.