sohc_turbo4

iTrader: (1)

ya numbers dont matter to much to me. as long as its fun to drive. no vids yet the car still needs a tranny install and tune. soon though! im hoping withhin 2 weeks. i gotta get some stuff welded and little things here and there.

sohc_turbo4

iTrader: (1)

alright new progress. i just took out the manifold and wiring some gauges to the sensors then i took the blackbox out to weld bung to it for return. also needed to drill the skunk2 manifold IAT sensor as it does not fit. skunk2 made for threaded sensors. so i drilled that and blew out all the metal flakes. put the tranny in today. nice and hot outside and the camera is taking blurry pics i guess the light sensitivity is not right. all mounts are connected few small thigns here and there and its ready to go shop for tune. and thats my new born puppy watching me work. she alway is delaying my progress....

sohc_turbo4

iTrader: (1)

over the weekend i painted my fender inners. wired up my vtec to ecu. mounted battery. repainted my valve cover with 2 bungs. just gotta figure where to mount my catch can now, im thinking just use 2 short self tap screws into the battery relocation shell. IM is back in with vacuum manifold. just waiting for a chip and fix my troubles with my oil return line kit. its way to short to use with AN fitings but i welded it to pan already so i have to run it. its got like 2cm of hose and its -10an on both sides theres no flex at all to line them up. i have the spoolin mani ram and im stuck. unless i use cheap barb fitting i dont know how else. i tried twist lock fittings with an but they are even longer than hose ends. after that i can dump in oil into the tranny and motor probably 10w30 for both and then run it and get a tune. and paint doesnt mattch...

robskeezy

looks good yo, why the yellow engine bay?

94BlkCivicEx

Why not the yellow engine bay? Cause it looks dope as hell

sohc_turbo4

iTrader: (1)

the whole car will be yellow once its mobile im going to take it to my shop for complete paint job.

aeaddy03

very nice eg build. i love what you are doing with the motor. i have a 95 dx sedan and trying to decide whether to do a mini-me swap and boost or a b-series swap. but keep up the good work and cant wait for vids.

EJ1_Can2

d series rule!
gonna boost my z6 soon

Nichelson_Performance

looks sweet man, you should have no problem seeing at least 350whp out of that build

imo i'd keep it around 350 whp if you want something reliable, my built bottom end y8 made 254whp on a mustang dyno with a tiny boost leak peaking 19.3psi at 5600rpm and dropping to 17.8 at 7600 so once i get that fixed and put it on a dynojet i should have around 300whp i'm guessing

it's all on a street tune also so everything is conservative and it's still a very fun street car. a z6 headswap, cam and valvetrain are my next objectives to get the power up more as my stock y8 head and cam are pretty much are their power potential which is easily shown on my dyno graph

btw the rainbow color scheme is unique

ken9

Hey look dope and i saw you not using your lower transmission mount on your car. Are you using just 3 bracket to hold the entire engine..

sohc_turbo4

iTrader: (1)

aeaddy - hey man if you were to swap a B make sure its a b18 and boost it!

nichelson - ya i want to keep it around 350 as ill probably drive it more street than a track car. i hope everything starts up in one piece. vitaras the way to go man its cheap and reliable. not as rainbow after i toook out the green vc

ken - actually i am using my lower tanny mount. but as for the lower engine mount im not using cause the popular welded nut inside the frame rail is broken off so it jsut spins. i still gotta extract it out. but lot of ppl dont even run that lower side anyway.

what i got done today. i put back my drive axles, hooked up the shift linkages. but i manage to ruin my driver side ball joint cause i used a impact gun to tigthen the nut... what a rookie mistake. the car is being towed to shop to fix my oil drain line and tune on dyno aug 9. so im looking forward to it.

Nichelson_Performance

on Ek's, i've seen alot of stock upper mounts break from not using the lower torque mount, but that's because Ek's use that junky oil filled one...I replaced mine with a billet Innovative mount with the street durometer bushing and I also added an energy suspension motor mount insert kit and filled my tranny mount with 3m window weld so my engine is pretty much solid lol it's definetely a noticable difference too when driving it as power is transferred so much quicker from the engine not flexing

sohc_turbo4

iTrader: (1)

ya man its a good idea to fill it and if not weld a piece of metal across so its complete solid mount. i see your running a mani ram like me? what are you using as a oil drain line? i dont have any room for AN hose ends.

Nichelson_Performance

i'm just using a piece of 5/8 id powersteering hose....it works fine, seeps a tiny bit though nothing major, never leaves an oil puddle

i ran it right into the top of the oilpan, but i also had to loosen the exhaust and compressor housing bolts on the turbo and turned it slightly that way i'm not kinking the return line

civic_turbo_wannabe

really nice build man, keep it up

sohc_turbo4

iTrader: (1)

thx man.
your bung at the oil pan is still lower than the drain at the turbo right?

Nichelson_Performance

yup about 4-5 inches lower, and like i stated, you may have to turn the bearing housing of the turbo inorder to keep the hose from kinking

sohc_turbo4

iTrader: (1)

how much do you have it turned? right now my drain is facing straight to the ground. if i maybe tilt it to 45degree i dont know if that will drain right

Nichelson_Performance

I'd have to take pictures to show you but its not turned much probably half of a 45....I still have a little bend but not much

allmotorwill

damm hatch looks fresh and looks like it gonna move like a bitch

sohc_turbo4

iTrader: (1)

well the shop has towed the car from my house and they will fix all the little things and do a dyno tune. so probably about a week so. turns out my RR caliper is siezed so im gonnna have to get new caliper or rebuild. then my clutch slave or master is acting up it is spongy as ****. need a new hotside IC pipe as mine sits like 2inches from the ground.

Nichelson_Performance

lol i think i pulled a neck muscle turning my head sideways to check out that nice looking bay with a beast motor

lol join the club of having the IC pipe 2 inches from the ground, i've replaced my coupler twice so far from hitting the ground, might be a good idea for me to weld it up or get one of those 90 degree couplers coming off the turbo instead of a reducer then a hard pipe

lookin good though bro, hopefully you get the outside of the car looking as good as the engine bad. good luck with tuning also, be sure to post up dyno numbers of what it made and to make me jealous since my numbers are low from suffering from heatsoak from my tiny intercooler lol

sohc_turbo4

iTrader: (1)

thx haha so where did you get your manifold everything built? looks like go autoworks. ya man i dont think i can drive around the city with that pipe so im getting the shop to weld me a new one that goes higher through the washer bottle. yea i was thinking of the 90degree coupler reducer they are like only 20 bucks. and i have some left over U pipes. whats the size of your intercooler? im only running a medium size one from go autoworks. said to handle up to 400. so about a week to get my car back ill probably get a video of the dyno too. they use a dyno that mounts on the brakes. space efficient for them as shop is bit smaller.

LUiS010606

super fresh build bro. if u dont mind answerin a quick question about that skunk2 intake mani. i just installed one on my single cam in an eg hatch and when i get on it it sounds lik the iacv hits the fire wall jw if u ever had a similar problem. n sorry for tapin into ur thread
thanks.

Nichelson_Performance

my manifold was built by a friend of mine, granted its the same design as other minirams, but are they fully ported like mine, inside and outside runners are identical in length, the runners inside the collector are completely welded. yea is a copied design of other manifolds but is constructed way better since it's not a mass production manifold.

sadly though he quit making them which make mine a limited production Omenspeedworks dseries miniram

my intercooler is tiny which is my guess as to why I have such low dyno numbers on high boost. I'm upgrading real soon though, i'm looking for the biggest FMIC I can find that will fit behind the bumper. I'm not worried about cutting the support in order for it to fit as long as my car is more efficient and makes 350whp lol Also i might mount it upside down that way I have clearance for EK foglights

btw, that dyno is called a dynapack dyno lol, i really don't see how it's space efficient especially since most chassis dynoes sits down in the ground and a car can easily be pulled over top of it instead of on the rollers

can't wait to see the vid though, be sure to post it