Bix VT

I recently had some debris fall into cyl #1 while I was doing a compression test. I couldn't easily remove it with conventional means, so I decided to pull the head. I did this with the exhaust manifold removed, but intake manifold still bolted to the head.

While pulling the head, I figured I would install the following parts (copied from my Majestic Honda invoice):

12251-P2J-004 GASKET, CYLINDER HEAD (NIPPON LEAKLESS)
14400-P2F-A01 BELT, TIMING (104RU24 GB-333)
91213-P2F-A01 OIL SEAL (29X45X8) (ARAI)
14520-P2A-305 TENSIONER SET, TIMING BELT (KOYO SEIKO)
91212-P2F-A01 OIL SEAL (31X46X7) (ARAI)
19200-P2A-A01 WATER PUMP (YAMADA)
38920-P2A-003 BELT, COMPRESSOR (BANDO)
56992-P2A-003 BELT, POWER STEERING PUMP (BANDO)
31110-P2A-004 BELT, ALTERNATOR (MITSUBOSHI)

I also took the opportunity to install ARP head studs, using the following method: http://www.d-series.org/forums/engin...aight-arp.html

After getting the head, timing belt and everything else put back together, I went to fire up the motor. It will turn over until the battery dies, but won't fire. I checked all fuses, double checked all sensors, everything is connected. I then checked the FAQs sticky for help. After reading several no-start posts by several people (Including RonJ's on several sites) I grounded a spare spark plug and had a friend crank the motor. No spark on all 4 plugs. I then followed all of these procedures: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/diy-how-test-spark-troubleshoot-spark-problems-2919450/

Under the "All plugs lack spark" section, the timing belt is brand new, timing is correct. G101 is nice and tight, as I did not need to remove it to replace the head gasket; here is a photo: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...again/G101.jpg

I have no CEL.

Referencing this image: http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/u...cture_3684.jpg With the key in the ON(II) position, I see battery voltage at Terminal A (+) and the Secondary Winding Terminal. The resistance between Terminal A and Terminal B is 0.7 ohms. The resistance between Terminal A and the Secondary Winding Terminal is 11.7K ohms.

I was about to begin testing the ICM using this image as a guide when it started raining and I called it quits: http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...cture_3323.jpg

My question is, if I am seeing battery voltage at the Secondary Winding Terminal, shouldn't that voltage continue to travel to the spark plugs? The cap and rotor are brand new, and OEM. I'm at a loss at this point. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Former User

I assume that you have a TEC coil. If so, the secondary winding resistance is out of spec. Replace the coil.

By the way, for the measurement of the primary winding resistance, you need to subtract the internal resistance of you multimeter. Do you do that?

Bix VT

Yes, the internal resistance was .31, and my result fluctuated between 1.0 and 1.04. I will replace the coil tomorrow and report back. Thanks for the reply!

Bix VT

Replaced the coil, no change. I also tested the ICM and it seemed fine as well.

I then checked for fuel (which I probably should have done in the first place before buying parts...) and I have pressure at the fuel filter when I loosen the banjo bolt, and I can hear the fuel pump prime when I move the key to the ON position. However, I pulled the spark plugs and had a friend crank the motor while I looked down into the cylinders with a flashlight. I saw no fuel being injected, and couldn't smell any either.

I removed G101 and cleaned it up just to be sure that wasn't the issue. What could be causing no spark and no fuel other than G101 or the ECU?

zeinhonda

when you first turn the key on does the check engine light come on? you didnt remove the thermostat ground for any reason did you? not only does the main relay power the fuel pump, it is also power to the ecu and power to all the injectors, there are 2 relays in the main relay

zeinhonda

That ground at the tstat if i remember right is not only sensor grnds, but also the ground for the main relay coil that controls the contacts for injectors and ecu. easy way to know is if your check engine light comes on when you first turn the key to on... if it does, thats not it. you could also check the injectors for 12vdc with the key on, if the main relay is working the injectors would have 12vdc to the common ylw/blk wires at all injectors

Bix VT

CEL comes on for 2 seconds or so when the key is turned to the ON position, then turns off. The thermostat ground (G101) was not removed during the head removal, but I did remove it today to clean it up. I then re-installed it and tightened it properly.

I will have to check for 12v at the injectors, I hadn't thought of that.

zeinhonda

if the cel comes on then shuts off you have power to the ecu, which also means it should be at the injectors... did you for any reason take the distributor cap off?

Bix VT

Yes, to perform diagnostics on the coil and ICM. I replaced the cap and rotor with OEM Honda parts.

zeinhonda

is the contact spring still on the end of the coil? most likely since you had the problem before, but just curious

Bix VT

Yes, here's a pic I took earlier with the cap/rotor/drip cover removed: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...in/TECDist.jpg

zeinhonda

hmm... ive seen coincidences with dizzys before and work done. so no electrical was removed? it could just be the igniter or the coil took a sheit... 9 times out of 10 it always seems to be the coil. out of those 2 that is.

Bix VT

Would that also cause the lack of fuel?

Bix VT

I am in fact seeing voltage to the injectors. I also just cleaned each ground wire in this diagram: http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...cture_3362.jpg

I'm running out of ideas at this point...what else could be causing this?