SLATER97EX

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jmunk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You don't need to remove the valve cover to remove the top timing belt cover. Use a screw driver and put pry the plastic out. </TD></TR></TABLE>

When doing this much work, why not spend the extra 2 minutes rather than doing a half-*** job?

cccya

go mom in the delsol!
thats cool your parents are into the honda world.
nice write up man!

JV

Good stuff bro.

How long it take you and your old man to do it?

EG(6)SR

Dam! One of the most comprehensive DIY I've seen posted on the board. I've never had the patience to take pictures of each step that I do.

Whenever I try to make one, I end up getting frustrated with specific part, and forget to take pictures of the rest of the install, so I'm like forget it. Great jop with the write up. Show them noobs and refresh the vets.

Andres-eh2

nice write up. i read the whole thing, just in case one day my time comes...

PriMaTe

That was a very thorough write up, i always wondered what was involved in changing the timing belt. Having a picture for each step made things really clear. Thanks for the great write up

ELUD THS

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGEESIX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice write up. i read the whole thing, just in case one day my time comes...</TD></TR></TABLE>

brent_G

great bit of info... Do you have a write up on valve adjusting and cam install? ? Im gonna be putting a cam, valve springs retainers, cam gear, etc all in my head and woujld like to know how to do it well... You should go to school to be a teacher cause you explain things well

pr0jectezek1el

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGEESIX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice write up. i read the whole thing, just in case one day my time comes...</TD></TR></TABLE>

me too..

THE GAME IS THICK

did you have to re-do the timing with a timing light since you took off the belt? about how long did it take you for the whole thing?

poison

Thanks much guys.

It took me and my father about 3 1/2 hours to do since we kept moving around trying to get a "secure" lock on the engine to get the crank bolt off.

Having that removed when it has never been removed before is one PITA.

He also went out to get new PS and AC belts, so that added to the time, didn't take long at all.

Snail Tuning

nice write up ille be doing 3 in the next few weeks so i think im ganna go buy a crank pully wrench. about 60 bucks but sounds worth the money.

tell your mom to turbo that slo

1dumbscreenname

very nice how-to

how-to: replace your valvetrain, i am going to want to do this soon so hook me up once your done.

poison

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bmcc72 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
tell your mom to turbo that slo </TD></TR></TABLE>

haha, actually my dad -- being a hard core old school muscle guy, wants to throw an H22A into the del slo =X

I can't imagine her driving around an H22 hybrid. :

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Snap-On makes removing the crank pulley easy. My brother bought this tool and it works like a charm. Just stick a half inch drive ratchet in it and wedge it against the LCA, then use either a breaker bar or an impact.



http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog...talog

tgreaves

Dont forget to turn the crank pully to move the timing belt 3 teeth to take the slack out of the timing belt before tightening the tensioner

poison

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tgreaves &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dont forget to turn the crank pully to move the timing belt 3 teeth to take the slack out of the timing belt before tightening the tensioner</TD></TR></TABLE>

With mini-me's that might be a different story, but with the D16Z6 there wasn't much slack at all.

SOHC_MShue

i'll be doing this on sunday hopefully. No p/s stuff, no a/c belt, and no cruise control should make it a little easier .

EGbeater

Thanks for putting that info out there, but personally I have wasted enough of my life and broken enough breaker bars trying to loosen Honda crank pulleys by hand - I won't do a timing belt w/o using an impact to get that 17 mm crank bolt loose.

Before I had a compressor and a 1/2" and 3/4" impact, I had friends who worked at shops bust loose the crank pulley with air and then very carefully retighten it just enough to get me home. Then I could easily do the job myself at my house.

On other cars, usually you can cheat and use the starter to bump the crank pulley bolt loose with a breaker bar braced against the floor, but with Honda's reverse rotation engines, all that will accomplish is snapping the head off the bolt (ask me how I know).

Last crank pulley bolt tip - use some blue or red loctite on it when you reinstall it. Loctite will not create strong enough of a bond to make it a problem to remove it again, but it WILL prevent your bolt from loosening by accident if you don't torque it enough.

If the crank pulley bolt comes loose and falls out, it will be followed shortly by crank pulley itself falling off (if it happens while you're driving, a big clue will be the alternator dummy light coming on b/c the belt has just flung itself off).

Then, if you continue to try to make it home like that, the timing belt will chew its way thru the plastic lower timing belt cover in about 10-30 miles (depending on your luck) and eject itself and at that point the motor will cease to operate.

Then you get your cell phone out and call a buddy to tow your dumbass home.

Again, ask me how I know . . . real-life adventures in DIY wrenching.

SOHC_MShue

damn we just tried doing my timing belt tonight. The ******* crank pulley bolt wouldn't even come off with an air impact gun . We tried 2 different guns too.

tgreaves

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Snap-On makes removing the crank pulley easy. My brother bought this tool and it works like a charm. Just stick a half inch drive ratchet in it and wedge it against the LCA, then use either a breaker bar or an impact.



http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog...talog </TD></TR></TABLE>

How does this stop the pulley from rotating.. Im looking at the picture but I just cant imagine how it works

DaX

iTrader: (1)

When I posted that I was under the assumption that all pulleys were alike...but they're not. This is what we used to do my brother's D16Z6 timing belt...the pulley has a 2" hex shaped hole in it that this piece fits in. The smaller hole in the little arm will accept a 1/2" drive breaker bar or ratchet. We then wedged this up against the front LCA and used another breaker bar on the nut. The only thing this does is hold the pulley still. But I have seen other pulleys on hondas that don't have the hex shaped hole, so this will not work for those. His pulley was a 3 belt pulley [alternator, power steering, AC], but the ones I have seen that don't have the hex shaped hole were two belt pulleys.

HXvtec

one of the best write ups ive ever seen. good job. this will definately come in handy.

wiznutz

thanks for the great write-up. i am doing a d15y7 with d16z6 head mini me build-up and want to replace a bunch of stuff while i have everything apart.

92 civic sedan with 113,000 on d15y7
plans for d16z6 head and custom built turbo w/ intercooler

playboyace35

whats the tq spec for the tensinoer?