my pile of crap, 95 cx track whore
03-23-2006, 08:31 AM
#1
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
my pile of crap, 95 cx track *****
I purchased this 95 Cx in May of '05 from an HT member. The car was located in NJ.
This is what it looked like when I bought it. Complete with crappy Denji projectors and some old Integra wheels with shot tires
Some of the "features" included '00 GSR leather front seats and rear bench.
'00 GSR brakes front and rear , Cut stock springs up front and ebay coilovers in the rear with tokico blue shocks/struts
The motor, more on it in a bit, is a b20b/b16b and with the way the car was put together, was intended to go fast in a straight line. It was tuned at API in Yonkers,NY with Hondata s200 and made 213whp and ran a 12.4 at Honda Day at Etown in 2004. I purchased it with the intent to use it for road courses (hpde) and an occassional autox. Looking it over in the parking lot my friend and I concluded for the price it was a steal, but would need alot of work.
First things first, we removed some of the fluff and redid the suspension and brakes.
Tossed out the junk and replaced it with Ground Control coilovers with 450# front and 600# rear springs.
Stock brake pads were tossed for Carbotech XP8 for the front and Axxis for the rear. Bled the system with higher temp fluid. The Omni upper control arms are new for this year.
Next I moved onto the interior.
Removed the carpet, unnecessary junk, thoroughly cleaned it and picked up some cans of silver spray paint.
Good enough.
To replace the GSR seats, I picked up some Corbeau's.
Stock seatbelts now gone, an Autopower 5 point rollbar with harnesses
The tranny was acting like a bad input shaft bearing, but turned out to be a total mess with too much needing to be replaced, so I sold it for parts and replaced it with a refreshed USDM ITR via Dan GSR.
A Mugen steering wheel, a shift light and oil temp gauge to finish it off
I went out and had some fun.
Only thing left, was a complete tune. Jdogg was in the area, I had him do a tune from scratch with Crome.
The 213whp dynapack map made 186whp on a local mustang dyno which is about as consistent and reliable as a stripper girlfriend. After his tune it made 192whp and 139ft/lbs. And he found as much as 40ft/lbs of torque in lower RPMs, I dont have the dyno sheet scanned, but I will soon.
With the new tune, off to Lime Rock Park in CT to roll some Evo's
After Lime Rock with the "fun season" over, I decided to make a few changes, clean things up, and shed some weight from it.
A propane heater is your friend
So we got to work stripping it down again
Since it doesnt see cold weather and rarely in the rain, out went everything under the dash that wasnt critical
Heater core, fan, AC crap, the rest of the airbag system that was unplugged anyway, out went the alarm that never worked right anyway and the remainder of the firewall mat. Yay wiring!
Next I tackled the sound insulation, or what very little there is in a CX. I HIGHLY recommend doing this over winter time. It chips off when cold. To further help the process, I used cans of compressed air turned upside down to spray refrigerant onto the tar to freeze it, with the insulation gone, it leaves glue.
Grinding the glue off the floor:
With the glue off the floor, get yourself a shop vac because there will be crap EVERYWHERE
With the interior prepped, time for paint. Duplicolor gloss white lacquer is great stuff.
Nice and clean
Here it is more or less finished
Homemade cluster
Onto the engine bay...
Rewind to when I got it in spring '05
Here is a picture of it not long after I got it after I trashed the junk MSD ignition box that fried on me
and was rattle canning the outside primer white.
Pretty right?
It more or less stayed the same and I just swapped out the radiator for a full size GSR and replaced the intake with a 4" RS Akimoto
Fast forward to December of 06, time to clean it up. Ready to pull it
Empty, filthy engine bay
Duplicolor Gloss White Lacquer FTW
uber ghetto paint job
picked up a set of used TWM 50mm's
In addition to the TWM's, I picked up a Fidanza flywheel, CTR crank pulley, Mugen Oil pan and RC440's
back in its home
Thats just about where it is now, we rewrapped almost the entire engine harness, moved the fuse box inside, and the battery to the pass side rear of the back.
Just about everything unnecessary is gone, down to the windshield washer fluid bottle.
Saturday Jdogg will be tuning it again, and I'll be sure to post the highly sought after "Filters vs. No Filters" on ITB's.
Here is the complete mod list...
Its a 1995 CX
Block:
B20B Block
Balanced 89mm crank
Eagle Rods
84 mm 12.5:1 CP pistons
ARP hardware
Mugen Oil Pan
Head:
B16B Head (stock, no port, no valve job)
Skunk 2 Stage 2 Cams, Retainers & Valvesprings
AEM Cam Gears
TWM 50mm Individual Thottle Bodies
Hondata IM gasket
Rocket modified spark plugs
Tranny:
USDM ITR w/ 4.4 final drive and lsd
Fidanza 7.5lb flywheel
ACT Extreme Pressure Plate
ACT street Strip Disc
Fastline Performance Road Race shifter
Exhaust:
Pro-1 4-1 Header w/ 2.5" collector - killing power, yes I know
Thermal wrapped and ceramic painted
2.5" mandrel exhaust
HKS muffler
Fuel:
RC 440cc Injectors
B&M fuel pressure gauge
Walrboro 255lb fuel pump
Misc Motor:
fake Mugen for tuning & ITR valve cover
Golden Eagle vac rail
CTR N1 crank pulley
AEM alternator pulley
GSR radiator
Oil filter Relocation kit
B&M oil cooler
CromePro
PLX m300
Suspension:
Ground Control Coilovers 450lbs F / 600lbs R
OTS Koni Yellow shocks/struts
Rear upper strut bar
Front upper strut bar
Omnipower front upper control arms
Omnipower rear lower control arms
Beaks lower rear tie bar
Brakes:
'00 GSR brake conversion F & R
Carbotech XP8 front pads
Axxis rear pads
NACA ducts in front bumper
3" dia. brake ducts to calipers
Exterior:
Primer White rattle can paint
Mugen Hood pins
Mugen copy front lip
15x6.5 Konig Hellium w/ 205/50/15 Falken Azenis RT215
Interior:
Autopower 4pt Race rollbar with harness bar
Autopower 5 point latch harnesses
Pyrotech harness pads
Corbeau Forza 2 driver and passenger seats
Mugen steering wheel II
Summit Racing shift light
Autometer Oil Temp
Autometer Oil Pressure
Summit Racing Water Temp
Kill Switch
Fan and Fuel Pump switch
I'll post up the dyno results and more pics of it complete this weekend.
And thanks for any help goes to:
ObviousBoy, Crx Jimmy, NAisBest, Dunkd, Dan GSR, Rodney, Jdogg, & Tbone
This is what it looked like when I bought it. Complete with crappy Denji projectors and some old Integra wheels with shot tires
Some of the "features" included '00 GSR leather front seats and rear bench.
'00 GSR brakes front and rear , Cut stock springs up front and ebay coilovers in the rear with tokico blue shocks/struts
The motor, more on it in a bit, is a b20b/b16b and with the way the car was put together, was intended to go fast in a straight line. It was tuned at API in Yonkers,NY with Hondata s200 and made 213whp and ran a 12.4 at Honda Day at Etown in 2004. I purchased it with the intent to use it for road courses (hpde) and an occassional autox. Looking it over in the parking lot my friend and I concluded for the price it was a steal, but would need alot of work.
First things first, we removed some of the fluff and redid the suspension and brakes.
Tossed out the junk and replaced it with Ground Control coilovers with 450# front and 600# rear springs.
Stock brake pads were tossed for Carbotech XP8 for the front and Axxis for the rear. Bled the system with higher temp fluid. The Omni upper control arms are new for this year.
Next I moved onto the interior.
Removed the carpet, unnecessary junk, thoroughly cleaned it and picked up some cans of silver spray paint.
Good enough.
To replace the GSR seats, I picked up some Corbeau's.
Stock seatbelts now gone, an Autopower 5 point rollbar with harnesses
The tranny was acting like a bad input shaft bearing, but turned out to be a total mess with too much needing to be replaced, so I sold it for parts and replaced it with a refreshed USDM ITR via Dan GSR.
A Mugen steering wheel, a shift light and oil temp gauge to finish it off
I went out and had some fun.
Only thing left, was a complete tune. Jdogg was in the area, I had him do a tune from scratch with Crome.
The 213whp dynapack map made 186whp on a local mustang dyno which is about as consistent and reliable as a stripper girlfriend. After his tune it made 192whp and 139ft/lbs. And he found as much as 40ft/lbs of torque in lower RPMs, I dont have the dyno sheet scanned, but I will soon.
With the new tune, off to Lime Rock Park in CT to roll some Evo's
After Lime Rock with the "fun season" over, I decided to make a few changes, clean things up, and shed some weight from it.
A propane heater is your friend
So we got to work stripping it down again
Since it doesnt see cold weather and rarely in the rain, out went everything under the dash that wasnt critical
Heater core, fan, AC crap, the rest of the airbag system that was unplugged anyway, out went the alarm that never worked right anyway and the remainder of the firewall mat. Yay wiring!
Next I tackled the sound insulation, or what very little there is in a CX. I HIGHLY recommend doing this over winter time. It chips off when cold. To further help the process, I used cans of compressed air turned upside down to spray refrigerant onto the tar to freeze it, with the insulation gone, it leaves glue.
Grinding the glue off the floor:
With the glue off the floor, get yourself a shop vac because there will be crap EVERYWHERE
With the interior prepped, time for paint. Duplicolor gloss white lacquer is great stuff.
Nice and clean
Here it is more or less finished
Homemade cluster
Onto the engine bay...
Rewind to when I got it in spring '05
Here is a picture of it not long after I got it after I trashed the junk MSD ignition box that fried on me
and was rattle canning the outside primer white.
Pretty right?
It more or less stayed the same and I just swapped out the radiator for a full size GSR and replaced the intake with a 4" RS Akimoto
Fast forward to December of 06, time to clean it up. Ready to pull it
Empty, filthy engine bay
Duplicolor Gloss White Lacquer FTW
uber ghetto paint job
picked up a set of used TWM 50mm's
In addition to the TWM's, I picked up a Fidanza flywheel, CTR crank pulley, Mugen Oil pan and RC440's
back in its home
Thats just about where it is now, we rewrapped almost the entire engine harness, moved the fuse box inside, and the battery to the pass side rear of the back.
Just about everything unnecessary is gone, down to the windshield washer fluid bottle.
Saturday Jdogg will be tuning it again, and I'll be sure to post the highly sought after "Filters vs. No Filters" on ITB's.
Here is the complete mod list...
Its a 1995 CX
Block:
B20B Block
Balanced 89mm crank
Eagle Rods
84 mm 12.5:1 CP pistons
ARP hardware
Mugen Oil Pan
Head:
B16B Head (stock, no port, no valve job)
Skunk 2 Stage 2 Cams, Retainers & Valvesprings
AEM Cam Gears
TWM 50mm Individual Thottle Bodies
Hondata IM gasket
Rocket modified spark plugs
Tranny:
USDM ITR w/ 4.4 final drive and lsd
Fidanza 7.5lb flywheel
ACT Extreme Pressure Plate
ACT street Strip Disc
Fastline Performance Road Race shifter
Exhaust:
Pro-1 4-1 Header w/ 2.5" collector - killing power, yes I know
Thermal wrapped and ceramic painted
2.5" mandrel exhaust
HKS muffler
Fuel:
RC 440cc Injectors
B&M fuel pressure gauge
Walrboro 255lb fuel pump
Misc Motor:
fake Mugen for tuning & ITR valve cover
Golden Eagle vac rail
CTR N1 crank pulley
AEM alternator pulley
GSR radiator
Oil filter Relocation kit
B&M oil cooler
CromePro
PLX m300
Suspension:
Ground Control Coilovers 450lbs F / 600lbs R
OTS Koni Yellow shocks/struts
Rear upper strut bar
Front upper strut bar
Omnipower front upper control arms
Omnipower rear lower control arms
Beaks lower rear tie bar
Brakes:
'00 GSR brake conversion F & R
Carbotech XP8 front pads
Axxis rear pads
NACA ducts in front bumper
3" dia. brake ducts to calipers
Exterior:
Primer White rattle can paint
Mugen Hood pins
Mugen copy front lip
15x6.5 Konig Hellium w/ 205/50/15 Falken Azenis RT215
Interior:
Autopower 4pt Race rollbar with harness bar
Autopower 5 point latch harnesses
Pyrotech harness pads
Corbeau Forza 2 driver and passenger seats
Mugen steering wheel II
Summit Racing shift light
Autometer Oil Temp
Autometer Oil Pressure
Summit Racing Water Temp
Kill Switch
Fan and Fuel Pump switch
I'll post up the dyno results and more pics of it complete this weekend.
And thanks for any help goes to:
ObviousBoy, Crx Jimmy, NAisBest, Dunkd, Dan GSR, Rodney, Jdogg, & Tbone
03-23-2006, 08:53 AM
#7
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: my pile of crap, 95 cx track ***** (starsxburn)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by starsxburn »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why no headwork?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just havent gotten around to it lol, budget is only so big..
A real header and headwork next winter hopefully.
Just havent gotten around to it lol, budget is only so big..
A real header and headwork next winter hopefully.
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03-23-2006, 08:55 AM
#8
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Re: my pile of crap, 95 cx track ***** (Egezzy)
For the price of all of the rattle cans you've purchased, you could have bought yourself some beginner guns and a compressor 
03-23-2006, 09:42 AM
#18
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Re: my pile of crap, 95 cx track ***** (gabebauman)
Awesome work!
Looks like you built yourself a fun track car.
One question though. You put a TON of work into prepping this car for racing, but I noticed on your suspension list that you aren't running front or rear sway bars. Did you just leave them off the list? Or, are you not running sway bars for a reason? If so, what is the reason?
Looks like you built yourself a fun track car.
One question though. You put a TON of work into prepping this car for racing, but I noticed on your suspension list that you aren't running front or rear sway bars. Did you just leave them off the list? Or, are you not running sway bars for a reason? If so, what is the reason?
03-23-2006, 10:04 AM
#23
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: (Lookinaround)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lookinaround »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice and clean for a track whole. Its good to know you like form and function! looks clean. how much was the ITB ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I got them used for $950 shipped with a golden eagle vac rail and hondata IM gasket
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">One question though. You put a TON of work into prepping this car for racing, but I noticed on your suspension list that you aren't running front or rear sway bars. Did you just leave them off the list? Or, are you not running sway bars for a reason? If so, what is the reason?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I dont feel like I need them yet. The car is still much faster than I am a skilled driver, so until I "tame the beast" I dont feel like I need them. The springs are decently stiff and will oversteer if I screw up. But its still pretty safe for me. When I dont feel like I'm going any faster with the setup I have, I'll change something.
And I'm not racing against anyone wheel to wheel, its for open track days, hpde's, autox'ing.
I got them used for $950 shipped with a golden eagle vac rail and hondata IM gasket
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">One question though. You put a TON of work into prepping this car for racing, but I noticed on your suspension list that you aren't running front or rear sway bars. Did you just leave them off the list? Or, are you not running sway bars for a reason? If so, what is the reason?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I dont feel like I need them yet. The car is still much faster than I am a skilled driver, so until I "tame the beast" I dont feel like I need them. The springs are decently stiff and will oversteer if I screw up. But its still pretty safe for me. When I dont feel like I'm going any faster with the setup I have, I'll change something.
And I'm not racing against anyone wheel to wheel, its for open track days, hpde's, autox'ing.
