High Mileage curbed rim fix (write up)
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High Mileage curbed rim fix (write up)
Please move to appropriate forum if needed.
After only seeing a few write ups on wheel repair and needing to repair mine myself i figured I'd document mine. I'm no expert in the field but figured i'd give 'er a go. comments welcome.
this is what i stared with. this wheel is #2 as far as being my most curbed rim.
you can see the curb marks and the oxidation. on the spoke you can se where the rim was knocked over smacking the concrete
some of the supplies
150,300,600, scotch brite, JB Weld (kwik set)
Sanded with 150 untill all oxidation and majority if old paint is off. about 30-45 mintues in and my fingers hurt from the sanding.
After sanding i focused on the curbed areas.
Next i took my file to it. since the curbed areas actually had raised parts from the impact i had to knock those down. this turned out to be easier than i had expected.
I used a wire brush to clean in "between those hard to reach areas." then i sanded a bit more with the 600 once more just make sure i didnt have any remaining high points. Then hit it with the wire brush again, then again with the scotch brite. I purposely left it rough so the JB would have a better "bite".
now i apply the JB Weld. I picked the kwik set version due to it setting faster. If you ever used jb weld you know it likes to ooz and settle alot. I didnt want it oozing down into my tire bead. Im definately to the point of no return now.
This stuff sets fast. faster than I thought it would. it was starting to solidify in mintues, not hours like the other kind.
After it was dried I went at it with a bit of 150 to knock it down fast. I used a flathead to help get in the groove. Then 600.
Then the masking. I used an old hobby paint brush tip to work the tape in. It had a nice rounded tip so i didnt have to worry about snagging or ripping the tape. By making sure the tape was adhered good it left virtually no room for overspray to get onto the tire. I think blue rubber's could make it big someday...
Prier. I used just some Autozone Bondo brand primer. Its not the best stuff, but it does the job and im not going for a show quality paintjob. I did a light 600 sanding of the rim next. Basically to knock of the dried primer that doesn't stick well. I've noticed that with the bondo rattle can primer a certain aount of it dries before sticking to the surface leaving a powder of primer. I would expect a high grade primer doesn't do this.
The almost finished product. It still needs a good wet sand and clear coat treatment. Its amazing how dirty the air was. It seemed clean while spraying. Somehow I had a bit of contaimination. Im sure once i wet sand and clear they'll never be seen. The color and luster wasn't what i was expecting. The can said silver but it turned out looking more like that cheap chrome paint. I'll proabably undo all this and repaint in a more approriate choice of paint.
Modified by allmotorSOHC16 at 6:03 PM 1/4/2007
Modified by allmotorSOHC16 at 6:08 PM 1/4/2007
After only seeing a few write ups on wheel repair and needing to repair mine myself i figured I'd document mine. I'm no expert in the field but figured i'd give 'er a go. comments welcome.
this is what i stared with. this wheel is #2 as far as being my most curbed rim.
you can see the curb marks and the oxidation. on the spoke you can se where the rim was knocked over smacking the concrete
some of the supplies
150,300,600, scotch brite, JB Weld (kwik set)
Sanded with 150 untill all oxidation and majority if old paint is off. about 30-45 mintues in and my fingers hurt from the sanding.
After sanding i focused on the curbed areas.
Next i took my file to it. since the curbed areas actually had raised parts from the impact i had to knock those down. this turned out to be easier than i had expected.
I used a wire brush to clean in "between those hard to reach areas." then i sanded a bit more with the 600 once more just make sure i didnt have any remaining high points. Then hit it with the wire brush again, then again with the scotch brite. I purposely left it rough so the JB would have a better "bite".
now i apply the JB Weld. I picked the kwik set version due to it setting faster. If you ever used jb weld you know it likes to ooz and settle alot. I didnt want it oozing down into my tire bead. Im definately to the point of no return now.
This stuff sets fast. faster than I thought it would. it was starting to solidify in mintues, not hours like the other kind.
After it was dried I went at it with a bit of 150 to knock it down fast. I used a flathead to help get in the groove. Then 600.
Then the masking. I used an old hobby paint brush tip to work the tape in. It had a nice rounded tip so i didnt have to worry about snagging or ripping the tape. By making sure the tape was adhered good it left virtually no room for overspray to get onto the tire. I think blue rubber's could make it big someday...
Prier. I used just some Autozone Bondo brand primer. Its not the best stuff, but it does the job and im not going for a show quality paintjob. I did a light 600 sanding of the rim next. Basically to knock of the dried primer that doesn't stick well. I've noticed that with the bondo rattle can primer a certain aount of it dries before sticking to the surface leaving a powder of primer. I would expect a high grade primer doesn't do this.
The almost finished product. It still needs a good wet sand and clear coat treatment. Its amazing how dirty the air was. It seemed clean while spraying. Somehow I had a bit of contaimination. Im sure once i wet sand and clear they'll never be seen. The color and luster wasn't what i was expecting. The can said silver but it turned out looking more like that cheap chrome paint. I'll proabably undo all this and repaint in a more approriate choice of paint.
Modified by allmotorSOHC16 at 6:03 PM 1/4/2007
Modified by allmotorSOHC16 at 6:08 PM 1/4/2007
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Re: (sup gurl)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bulletspastsunset »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im hoping hes at the point of making the rest of the thread on another post right now
so far </TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah, i was having imagebeaver problems. working better now.
so far </TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah, i was having imagebeaver problems. working better now.
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Re: (bulletspastsunset)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bulletspastsunset »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im hoping hes at the point of making the rest of the thread on another post right now
so far </TD></TR></TABLE>
awesome, i have some curbs i want to get rid of.
so far </TD></TR></TABLE>
awesome, i have some curbs i want to get rid of.
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Re: (teggysue)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teggysue »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow great write up, be sure to update us on the finished product </TD></TR></TABLE>
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Re: (teggysue)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teggysue »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow great write up, be sure to update us on the finished product </TD></TR></TABLE>
X3
I was thinking of doing something like this. I guess you beat me too it.
X3
I was thinking of doing something like this. I guess you beat me too it.
#10
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Re: (mr.EGg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mr.EGg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">after it dries, sand down and repaint. basically right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats the idea so far.
thats the idea so far.
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I take it this only works well on a rim without a raised edge on the outside of the lip? The rims on my S-10 are beat and I'm thinking it might be fun to experiment, but the raised edge seems like it would make things pretty difficult. Anyways, just sort of thinking out loud, but if anyone has any thoughts. . . .
#17
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Re: High Mileage curbed rim fix (allmotorSOHC16)
ive done this before! worked great and i did it at the lip and had no mounting issues and it was solid like it was apart of the rim!
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