Runs great, but hard to start.
#1
Runs great, but hard to start.
My 94 Accord DX runs great, but it is hard to start. I have to hold the gas all the way down and crank forever to get it to start. I just replaced the head gasket a few months ago. The new waterpump started leaking without my knowledge, and it started running hot. This is when my hard start problems began again. I think the head gasket is blown again.
I know it is getting gas, I can smell it. I have 150 compression on all cylinders. Also put on a new distributor. Have tried three different coils, but still getting a weak orange / yellow spark. When I crank the starter with the radiator cap off, coolant blows out the top of the radiator. The odd thing is after I get it started, it runs great. I drove around town for about a half an hour and no overheating everything seemed fine. If I get the car running, let it warm up, then shut it off, and start it again, It will start fine.
I am thinking about getting a new head gasket, and a new cylinder head to give this car one last chance before the junkyard. Any suggestions?
I know it is getting gas, I can smell it. I have 150 compression on all cylinders. Also put on a new distributor. Have tried three different coils, but still getting a weak orange / yellow spark. When I crank the starter with the radiator cap off, coolant blows out the top of the radiator. The odd thing is after I get it started, it runs great. I drove around town for about a half an hour and no overheating everything seemed fine. If I get the car running, let it warm up, then shut it off, and start it again, It will start fine.
I am thinking about getting a new head gasket, and a new cylinder head to give this car one last chance before the junkyard. Any suggestions?
#2
Re: Runs great, but hard to start.
are you burning coolant? it sounds like coolant is pooling in your cylinders because your head gasket isnt sealing properly.
next time you replace the head gasket you should drop the head off at the machine shop and have them check for cracks and warpage.
next time you replace the head gasket you should drop the head off at the machine shop and have them check for cracks and warpage.
#3
Re: Runs great, but hard to start.
I agree doctorbee. I think coolant is in the cylinders. Thats why it wont start. I cant say for sure but that is what makes sense. I had the head milled or shaved before I put it back on last time.
So, either the deck, or top of the engine block is warped, or the head is. I can get a head for about 50 and a gasket for about 15. Just dont want to do it if its just gonna break down again.
Has anyone out there tried to take the head off just by taking off the timing belt on the cam gear? Without taking off the harmonic balancer and timing belts? It would save me alot of time if I did not have to take the timing belts off.
So, either the deck, or top of the engine block is warped, or the head is. I can get a head for about 50 and a gasket for about 15. Just dont want to do it if its just gonna break down again.
Has anyone out there tried to take the head off just by taking off the timing belt on the cam gear? Without taking off the harmonic balancer and timing belts? It would save me alot of time if I did not have to take the timing belts off.
#4
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Re: Runs great, but hard to start.
lmao theres no need to do any of that stuff. your just removing the head not replacing the water pump and timing belt. all you need to do is remove top timing cover after put on tdc. and remove timing belt from cam gear. remove head. easy as that
I agree doctorbee. I think coolant is in the cylinders. Thats why it wont start. I cant say for sure but that is what makes sense. I had the head milled or shaved before I put it back on last time.
So, either the deck, or top of the engine block is warped, or the head is. I can get a head for about 50 and a gasket for about 15. Just dont want to do it if its just gonna break down again.
Has anyone out there tried to take the head off just by taking off the timing belt on the cam gear? Without taking off the harmonic balancer and timing belts? It would save me alot of time if I did not have to take the timing belts off.
So, either the deck, or top of the engine block is warped, or the head is. I can get a head for about 50 and a gasket for about 15. Just dont want to do it if its just gonna break down again.
Has anyone out there tried to take the head off just by taking off the timing belt on the cam gear? Without taking off the harmonic balancer and timing belts? It would save me alot of time if I did not have to take the timing belts off.
#5
Re: Runs great, but hard to start.
jdmcertified909 glad you got a kick out of a newbee mechanic. I was just thinking that I would not be able to get the timing belt back over the cam gear without messing up the timing tension and having to reset the timing. But as you said it is the way to do it.
The problem my car ended up being the intake gasket. I would not recommend the intake gasket from mizumoauto on eBay. It is paper thin. Mine ripped and had a small tear I noticed during install. I thought it would be ok. Nope, I got a new gasket today, it was thicker and more durable. Car starts good now. Guess it was a vaccume leak causing the car to not start. Not sure why it was not causing a problem after the car got started.
It was difficult getting the gasket on. Last time I put the gasket on the head then installed the head. This time the head was installed and I had the push the intake away from the head. The intake ended up going down next to the firewall. It was a pain in the rear. I recommend taking of the IACV off the back of the throttle body to anyone installing an intake gasket. It will provide more room for the intake manifold to go back toward the firewall.
The only thing now is I have a coolant leak. Underneath the bleeder valve there is an outgoing hose on the back of the thermostat housing that broke. What is this hose called? It runs on the back side of the engine block. Does anyone know where to find an O-ring to replace it. Went to the auto stores and no one knew what this hose was. I took the O-ring off and no one had the correct size. I tried another O-ring but it was too small.
The problem my car ended up being the intake gasket. I would not recommend the intake gasket from mizumoauto on eBay. It is paper thin. Mine ripped and had a small tear I noticed during install. I thought it would be ok. Nope, I got a new gasket today, it was thicker and more durable. Car starts good now. Guess it was a vaccume leak causing the car to not start. Not sure why it was not causing a problem after the car got started.
It was difficult getting the gasket on. Last time I put the gasket on the head then installed the head. This time the head was installed and I had the push the intake away from the head. The intake ended up going down next to the firewall. It was a pain in the rear. I recommend taking of the IACV off the back of the throttle body to anyone installing an intake gasket. It will provide more room for the intake manifold to go back toward the firewall.
The only thing now is I have a coolant leak. Underneath the bleeder valve there is an outgoing hose on the back of the thermostat housing that broke. What is this hose called? It runs on the back side of the engine block. Does anyone know where to find an O-ring to replace it. Went to the auto stores and no one knew what this hose was. I took the O-ring off and no one had the correct size. I tried another O-ring but it was too small.
#6
Re: Runs great, but hard to start.
This is the part I am looking for...
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=166322
91314-PR7-A00 37.2 x 4.25 (metric).
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=166322
91314-PR7-A00 37.2 x 4.25 (metric).
#7
Re: Runs great, but hard to start.
www.hondaautomotiveparts.com if you're on the east coast
www.hondapartscheap.com if you're on the west coast
www.hondapartscheap.com if you're on the west coast
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#9
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Re: Runs great, but hard to start.
glad you found the problem. i had a 94 accord 2 door ex with a leaking gasket. but my symptoms were 5k rev limit and erratic idle due to the leak so i just got http://www.inlinefour.com/honinmangas.html
jdmcertified909 glad you got a kick out of a newbee mechanic. I was just thinking that I would not be able to get the timing belt back over the cam gear without messing up the timing tension and having to reset the timing. But as you said it is the way to do it.
The problem my car ended up being the intake gasket. I would not recommend the intake gasket from mizumoauto on eBay. It is paper thin. Mine ripped and had a small tear I noticed during install. I thought it would be ok. Nope, I got a new gasket today, it was thicker and more durable. Car starts good now. Guess it was a vaccume leak causing the car to not start. Not sure why it was not causing a problem after the car got started.
It was difficult getting the gasket on. Last time I put the gasket on the head then installed the head. This time the head was installed and I had the push the intake away from the head. The intake ended up going down next to the firewall. It was a pain in the rear. I recommend taking of the IACV off the back of the throttle body to anyone installing an intake gasket. It will provide more room for the intake manifold to go back toward the firewall.
The only thing now is I have a coolant leak. Underneath the bleeder valve there is an outgoing hose on the back of the thermostat housing that broke. What is this hose called? It runs on the back side of the engine block. Does anyone know where to find an O-ring to replace it. Went to the auto stores and no one knew what this hose was. I took the O-ring off and no one had the correct size. I tried another O-ring but it was too small.
The problem my car ended up being the intake gasket. I would not recommend the intake gasket from mizumoauto on eBay. It is paper thin. Mine ripped and had a small tear I noticed during install. I thought it would be ok. Nope, I got a new gasket today, it was thicker and more durable. Car starts good now. Guess it was a vaccume leak causing the car to not start. Not sure why it was not causing a problem after the car got started.
It was difficult getting the gasket on. Last time I put the gasket on the head then installed the head. This time the head was installed and I had the push the intake away from the head. The intake ended up going down next to the firewall. It was a pain in the rear. I recommend taking of the IACV off the back of the throttle body to anyone installing an intake gasket. It will provide more room for the intake manifold to go back toward the firewall.
The only thing now is I have a coolant leak. Underneath the bleeder valve there is an outgoing hose on the back of the thermostat housing that broke. What is this hose called? It runs on the back side of the engine block. Does anyone know where to find an O-ring to replace it. Went to the auto stores and no one knew what this hose was. I took the O-ring off and no one had the correct size. I tried another O-ring but it was too small.
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