SystemKhaos

13s for the quarter does sound like alot of fun tbh. Maybe I was overthinking about the horsepower tbh. Let me see what I can do to find an H23A for sale.....I'll get back to you shortly.

SystemKhaos

Does this look like a fair price for an H23A blue top?
98 02 HONDA ACCORD 97 01 HONDA PRELUDE 2.3L BLUE TOP DOHC VTEC ENGINE JDM H23A | eBay
Please let me know. You have my quite curious now and the motor is nearly half as cheap
This one is also from JDMNewYork. So I feel comfortable buying from him since everybody highly recommends him.

Aradin

Try to find an 00-01 model. Easy way to tell is the IACV will be on the back of the intake manifold. They come with a better head used on the Euro-R motors. Has a factory port job.

Aradin

Yeah. I bought one for $750 w/ the PDE head a couple years ago and I had to drive 3.5 hours each way to pick it up. $599+freight is a steal.

SystemKhaos

Sorry to keep bothering you, but it says its for an model between 98-02 is that the same thing as it being a 00-01 model? Sorry about all the ignorant questions. Im trying to learn

SystemKhaos

lol ignore that, im replying too fast and getting ahead of myself, im getting super excited, the only thing that still scares me is how im gonna do the engine swap on a gravel driveway with no cherry picker.....Alot of friends who do engine swaps said I should be able to handle it just fine even with that situation, seeing as I did a headgasket as my very first job and most people inexperienced like myself wouldnt touch a head gasket before trying an engine swap, or at least thats what he has told me, perhaps he was just trying to hype me up to go ahead and give it a shot.

Aradin

The 98-99 models use the older style P13 head based on the first gen H22s. The 00-01 models use the Euro-R based PDE head. The one pictured is a 98-99 model. Either one will work, just nice to get the good one if possible. You may want to message them and see if they would be willing to sell you a PDE model specifically.

Sounds like you have a lot to learn. Swapping in a non-standard engine means more work. There are additional things that will have to be done to convert the engine to work correctly in your car. Nothing too terribly major but the devil is in the details. I suggest you read up on swaps for your chassis before buying anything.

SystemKhaos

I will do both of those, do you have any tips on where I could start my search into my enlightenment for this engine swap? I ask because I find you to be more reliable than whatever crap i might find on google.

Aradin

Cb7tuner may have some info. There's also the FAQ in this Accord section on this site.

Just off the top of my head, for the H23A swap you'll need to: convert the intake manifold from a 3 wire IACV to 2 wire with an adapter from RoskoRacing, wire up IABs or delete them w/ a spacer, use an OBD1 H22 distributor internal/external(whichever matches your factory wiring harness for simplicity), wire up VTEC, get a chipped ECU w/ proper engine calibration/tune, for your chassis you will use either a 94-97 accord driver's side mount(easier) or find an H22 post mount bracket from a 93-96 Prelude, and probably some other stuff I'm forgetting but that should get you started. It's also a good idea to do plugs/wires, water pump, timing belt, and for all my customers I always recommend swapping to a manual timing belt tensioner as they're much more reliable. Kaizenspeed sells the real tensioners, avoid knock-offs found on eBay and the like.

SystemKhaos

I will do my best to look into it, sounds complicated now that you mentioned so many things Ive never heard of before XD

Aradin

It's just nuts and bolts. With a little research you'll be well on your way to getting a better picture of what you're getting into. Good luck.

SystemKhaos

Can you give this link a one over and tell me if everything seems to be included in whats need to do the engine swap?
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...ccord-1097448/

SystemKhaos

Or anyone for that matter, as long as you have successful swap experience, I'd love to hear your input.

SystemKhaos

Bump

SystemKhaos

Id like some feedback on this thread here, does it involve everything that I'm gonna need to know/do when I go to do a motor swap?

holmesnmanny

h22 is a tad easier, the h23a vtec has a strange iacv that needs an adapter to work with...h22 is plug and play

SystemKhaos

As true as that is, the H22 is still up there in price, I think Id rather just get the h23a and get the adapter that I need in order to make it run right

Aradin

The H23A is the better engine for a stock swap anyway. Like I said before, more torque and makes more power dollar for dollar against the H22, JDM or otherwise. In a swapped car the H23A actually has comparable wheel horsepower to the Euro-R which is much more expensive. The H23A engines were underrated because they were originally attached to an automatic transmission and had their rev limit cut short. The IACV adapter is only about $40 anyway. RoskoRacing sells two different ones depending on what model of the engine you end up with.

SystemKhaos

I plan on going with this one here 98 02 HONDA ACCORD 97 01 HONDA PRELUDE 2.3L BLUE TOP DOHC VTEC ENGINE JDM H23A | eBay
If you could please, I checked RR website and I couldnt find the adapter, I was probably looking in the wrong spot, could you help me out a little Aradin? :D

Aradin

https://www.roskoracing.com/cgi-bin/...on&key=200-011

That's the one you need if you get the 00-01 PDE head model. If you get the P13 head model, you will need to contact him for a slightly different one he makes that isn't listed yet.

SystemKhaos

which would be the best head to get? I'm trying to make as much torque and horsepower as possible on a stock swap

Aradin

I believe I already answered that. The PDE head model is superior. The difference between the two is not that much though. Likely won't feel a difference on the butt dyno.

SystemKhaos

Alrighty, I can just call up the guy that sells those imports and ask what head that is and he should be able to tell me right?

holmesnmanny

It barely has slightly more peak torque but the same horsepower and it revs about a 1000 rpms less than the usual H22a. It's just more rare, that's the main reason it has a slight following.

Aradin

Your statement would apply to them on paper and in their factory vehicles. That's why I specified "in a swapped car" because once you are actually able to adjust the mapping with a tuneable ecu and raise the rev limit to 7500-7800 on the H23A it will outperform an H22 all day stock for stock. Like I said, they're comparable to Euro-R horsepower and have more torque when stock. Head over to the all motor section and you'll see many H23A examples putting down 205-210whp, whereas a similar H22 will struggle to put down 190-195whp with all other things equal. Why pay more for less?

Like I already said, the H23As were seriously underrated. They only came in automatic cars which means more parasitic loss than a manual counterpart and Honda kept the rev limit low for whatever reason which cut the power short. Both of those issues are typically resolved when they're swapped so the engine gets to put down it's full potential.

If you head over to the "H23AV mystery motor" thread in the prelude section you will see what I mean. Honda over-engineered those engines quite a bit.