Nisif

I'm replacing a set of front rotors on my 91 Accord. After taking off the hub and rotors off with a slide hammer, my wheel bearings were left inside the spindle/hub assembly. I'm trying to install the hubs/new rotors, however I can't press them in far enough by hand in order to start threading the axle nut. Any ideas? Not sure if I have to take the spindle assembly to a machine shop to get them pressed in, I was hoping I didn't have to replace the wheel bearings as well.

TouringAccord

You could take it to a machine shop, they'll probably charge like $25 a side or something. Also, some poeple I heard of doing it that way have said they needed to put a piece of wood over the center of the hub and hammer the assembly into the bearing to get enough thread through the hub to put the nut on.

Be careful though, if you don't get the hub square to the bearing, you could mess things up.

Also, once it's all back together, keep a close eye on those bearings. The way you did it is not recommended unless you plan on replacing the bearings as well. Any dirt or whatever that gets in there is going to be bad. Yes, some have done it and gotten away with it but others have done it that way and shortly after have had to go back in there and replace the bearings.

Nisif

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You could take it to a machine shop, they'll probably charge like $25 a side or something. Also, some poeple I heard of doing it that way have said they needed to put a piece of wood over the center of the hub and hammer the assembly into the bearing to get enough thread through the hub to put the nut on..</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'll give it a shot by hammering it in with a block of wood. I assume I'll have to take the spindle assembly off of the car in order to hammer it in. If the wheel bearing assembly had originally came off with the hub would it make a lot easier to install or does it still take a lot of effort to push it into the spindle assembly? If it's a lot easier that way, I may just buy a set of new wheel bearings and take the old ones out of the spindle assembly. Thanks for the help

TouringAccord

use the block of wood against the hub and then hammer against the block of wood with a big hammer, this way the wood takes the abuse and not the hub.

It could be easier and it may not (if it's really rusted in there). But the preferred method by myself is to pop the lower balljoint, remove the axle from the hub, put the LBJ back in, unbolt the four bolts on the back of the knuckle holding the bearing on, then remove the hub/rotor/bearing assembly as one piece. If the bearing comes away your fine, your perfect. Sometimes they need a little hammering on the rotor (your replacing them anyway) to work it free. Other times they can be so rusted that you'll need to have them pressed out of the knuckle. In theory though, the bearing should slide out of the knuckle which would make installation just as easy. If it's a bit stuck in there, once it's out clean and grease the bore where the bearing sits so it doesn't get stuck in there next time.

If you replace the bearing, you'll need to take the hub and new bearing to a machine shop, have the old inner race pressed off the hub and have the hub pressed into the new bearing.

Right now, replacing the bearing would be the safest bet for you, but you may be able to get away with not. If it was me, I would just replace it now rather than have the possible headace later.

To remove the entire assembly as one only takes a few extra steps than what you tookto start with, so to me it's worth it to take the few extra steps and save the bearings if they don't need replacing. Of course it's too late for that but next time thats what I would do if I were you.

Nisif

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">To remove the entire assembly as one only takes a few extra steps than what you tookto start with, so to me it's worth it to take the few extra steps and save the bearings if they don't need replacing. Of course it's too late for that but next time thats what I would do if I were you.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I followed your procedure assuming you used a slide hammer to pull off the rotor/hub assembly, however when you mentioned "extra steps" in order for the rotor, hub, and wheel bearing to come out all together as one piece, did you mean by hammering on the old rotors? That's the only thing I didn't do. I'll make sure I'll adequately grease the bearing housing for next time around. I honestly would swapped it for the Acura CL rotor over hub knuckles but the car already has 300,000 miles on it.

TouringAccord

the extra steps would be...

instead of just removing the axle nut and caliper/bracket, then using a slide hammer to yank to the hub/rotor away from the bearing.

you would remove the axle nut, caliper/bracket, lower balljoint, remove axle from hub, put balljoint back in place, remove the four bolts on the back of the knuckle holding the bearing and then the hub/rotor/bearing assembly should come away from the knuckle. This removes the Assembly as one piece instead of separating them like the slide hammer method does.

what I meant by "you may need to hammer on the old rotors" was that sometimes after you remove the four bolts on the back of the knuckle that are holding the bearing, the bearing is rusted in the knuckle and it sometimes takes some force to get it out. As long as it's not severely rusted in there like mine were, hammering on the back of the old rotor should free the assembly from the knuckle. Otherwise you'll need to have the bearing pressed out of the knuckle if it's really rusted in there.

Nisif

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you would remove the axle nut, caliper/bracket, lower balljoint, remove axle from hub, put balljoint back in place, remove the four bolts on the back of the knuckle holding the bearing and then the hub/rotor/bearing assembly should come away from the knuckle. This removes the Assembly as one piece instead of separating them like the slide hammer method does.

what I meant by "you may need to hammer on the old rotors" was that sometimes after you remove the four bolts on the back of the knuckle that are holding the bearing, the bearing is rusted in the knuckle and it sometimes takes some force to get it out. As long as it's not severely rusted in there like mine were, hammering on the back of the old rotor should free the assembly from the knuckle. Otherwise you'll need to have the bearing pressed out of the knuckle if it's really rusted in there.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I follow you, technically if the bearing housing is lubed well enough (not rusted onto the knuckle assembly) the slide hammer isn't neccessary. Fortunately its all completed now, I took one of the knuckles to a shop to have the passenger's side wheel bearing replaced (which was stuck onto the knuckle) and the hub and rotor pressed on, which set me back $50 in labor. The driver's side I took my chances on, the wheel bearing was stuck onto the knuckle as well, but I managed to use the wood block and hammer technique to press the hub and rotor assembly onto it. There wasn't any slop or binding in the assembly after I spun the rotor so hopefully all is good. I drove the car for the first time today after swapping the motor, timing and balancer belt/water pump change, and new front brakes and the car only has one minor problem which is probably unrelated to this thread. Hopefully I figure it out within a week, if not I'll be making another thread and be counting on your help again, .

TouringAccord

right, if all goes as planned you don't need a slide hammer or press to change the rotors.

yeah, just keep an eye on that side that you didn't replace the bearing.

If you can't figure the problem out, then post it up. Hopefully you'll get some help and be able to solve the problem.