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How-To: Replace Timing Belt, Timing Balancer Belt and Water Pump on a F22B1
06-14-2007, 05:15 PM
#51
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the car seems noisier since I changed the belt, but behaves the same otherwise with regard to power and throttle response. I looked in the maintenence guide and it lists the valve clearance should also be adjusted at 105k. Think that would clear it up? It sounds like a louder exhaust noise.
06-15-2007, 06:44 AM
#52
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Re: (steedums)
I usually do the valve clearance at the same time because you already have the valve cover open so it's a perfect time to do it. If the sound is like a ticking, then adjusting the valve clearance will probably help.
Where is the sound coming from? Is it a like a humming sound?
timing belt being too tight? balance shafts being out of time maybe?
Where is the sound coming from? Is it a like a humming sound?
timing belt being too tight? balance shafts being out of time maybe?
06-16-2007, 06:58 PM
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Re: (TouringAccord)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I usually do the valve clearance at the same time because you already have the valve cover open so it's a perfect time to do it. If the sound is like a ticking, then adjusting the valve clearance will probably help.
Where is the sound coming from? Is it a like a humming sound?
timing belt being too tight? balance shafts being out of time maybe?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I do hear a tapping sometimes, but i dont think thats the root of the noise problem. on the freeway, it sounds just like a constant hum. I know the timing and balance shafts are all lined up perfectly, but i can see too much tension being on the belt(s). I did it exactly by the book though so I dont know how I would do it otherwise and get less tension. How would I tell which belt has too much tension? Also, would there be a way to decrease the tension without openning everything up again? probably not I'd wager.
Where is the sound coming from? Is it a like a humming sound?
timing belt being too tight? balance shafts being out of time maybe?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I do hear a tapping sometimes, but i dont think thats the root of the noise problem. on the freeway, it sounds just like a constant hum. I know the timing and balance shafts are all lined up perfectly, but i can see too much tension being on the belt(s). I did it exactly by the book though so I dont know how I would do it otherwise and get less tension. How would I tell which belt has too much tension? Also, would there be a way to decrease the tension without openning everything up again? probably not I'd wager.
06-18-2007, 03:48 AM
#55
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Re: (RotaryBzzzz)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RotaryBzzzz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Great technical writeup! Glad to see old-skoolers back in the thick of things!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks
</TD></TR></TABLE>Thanks
06-18-2007, 03:51 AM
#56
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Re: (steedums)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by steedums »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I do hear a tapping sometimes, but i dont think thats the root of the noise problem. on the freeway, it sounds just like a constant hum. I know the timing and balance shafts are all lined up perfectly, but i can see too much tension being on the belt(s). I did it exactly by the book though so I dont know how I would do it otherwise and get less tension. How would I tell which belt has too much tension? Also, would there be a way to decrease the tension without openning everything up again? probably not I'd wager.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't know about putting less tension on there, I wouldn't do that. Just go through the tensioning process as described in the manual and thats all you need to do.
I don't know about putting less tension on there, I wouldn't do that. Just go through the tensioning process as described in the manual and thats all you need to do.
06-18-2007, 06:12 AM
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Re: (TouringAccord)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I don't know about putting less tension on there, I wouldn't do that. Just go through the tensioning process as described in the manual and thats all you need to do.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I took everything apart and redid the tension as the manual described and had the same result, so the manual's process doesn't seem to work for me (or im simply retarded). I mean, its a really simple process, the whole thing, but yet somehow I'm messing it up
I don't know about putting less tension on there, I wouldn't do that. Just go through the tensioning process as described in the manual and thats all you need to do.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I took everything apart and redid the tension as the manual described and had the same result, so the manual's process doesn't seem to work for me (or im simply retarded). I mean, its a really simple process, the whole thing, but yet somehow I'm messing it up
06-18-2007, 02:55 PM
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06-30-2007, 12:42 PM
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Re: How-To: Replace Timing Belt, Timing Balancer Belt and Water Pump on a F22B1 (TouringAccord)
One of the best "How to's" Ive ever seen. Really fantastic, since this is a particularly complex changeout for most diyer's. My civic with the 1.5L was such an easy job in comparison.
Having had to do this myself, after losing a belt while the engine was running (DOH!!), you might consider adding the information on checking the valves, replacement of any bent or damaged ones, checking the head and cylinder surfaces for damage and head flatness, and re-adjustment of valve clearances in this operation as well.
I know was a pita for me to do all this for the first time with the chilton book. Is far too vague on steps required for this job. Really is a shame you werent around with this document then..lol If you have documented a lot of work on this car and engine you should consider publishing. You really include fantastic detail and step by step process of the work involved. I can surely say I would buy it. Great work!!!
John
Having had to do this myself, after losing a belt while the engine was running (DOH!!), you might consider adding the information on checking the valves, replacement of any bent or damaged ones, checking the head and cylinder surfaces for damage and head flatness, and re-adjustment of valve clearances in this operation as well.
I know was a pita for me to do all this for the first time with the chilton book. Is far too vague on steps required for this job. Really is a shame you werent around with this document then..lol If you have documented a lot of work on this car and engine you should consider publishing. You really include fantastic detail and step by step process of the work involved. I can surely say I would buy it. Great work!!!
John
07-25-2007, 07:35 PM
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Re: (steedums)
I just did my t-belt, and either the previous mechanic that did my t-belt swapped my tensioner springs, or they just don't cut it.
Something that the manuals don't discuss...is how exactly does that 14mm bolt actually adjust tension? I see no mechanism that allows it to do this. All it does is keep the tensioners held together and from coming off that bolt that sticks out of the block. From what I see it does not have the ability to directly influence belt tension. The tensioners have elliptical holes that actually allow them to slide up and down on that bolt...why does the manual say a bolt can tighten the belts?
Second, are these the automatic tensioners? With just weak springs I'm not so sure.
Third, my belts are also very loose. I've done numerous t-belts on toyotas and while this is my first honda t-belt, the theories are the same and the tightness of my t-belt is unacceptable, very loose. There is a 10mm bolt that can go into the block and it can hold the t-belt tensioner in place. At first I used it to keep the tensioner in it's most "loose" position...but after releasing it...the belt was to loose so I simply applied pressure to it (not the tensioner, but the metal backing plate on the tensioners pulley) to apply sufficient belt tension, then re-tightened that bolt, locking the tensioner in that tightness...of course if the belt stretches any, it won't automatically adjust.
I did the same with the balance shaft belt.
So now I'm worried that in the future...if the belt needs more tension...it won't have it...I'm about to go swap the springs and see how it goes...I'll either edit this post or make another saying how that went.
None of the manuals I've seen mentions either of those 10mm bolts or what you're supposed to do with them afterwords. Do you leave them loose? I was missing the t-belt tensioners 10mm bolt.
*edit...btw I'm driving a 93 accord
*also...the springs were in their correct position before.
Modified by bcjammerx at 9:14 PM 7/25/2007
Modified by bcjammerx at 9:17 PM 7/25/2007
Modified by bcjammerx at 10:08 PM 7/25/2007
Something that the manuals don't discuss...is how exactly does that 14mm bolt actually adjust tension? I see no mechanism that allows it to do this. All it does is keep the tensioners held together and from coming off that bolt that sticks out of the block. From what I see it does not have the ability to directly influence belt tension. The tensioners have elliptical holes that actually allow them to slide up and down on that bolt...why does the manual say a bolt can tighten the belts?
Second, are these the automatic tensioners? With just weak springs I'm not so sure.
Third, my belts are also very loose. I've done numerous t-belts on toyotas and while this is my first honda t-belt, the theories are the same and the tightness of my t-belt is unacceptable, very loose. There is a 10mm bolt that can go into the block and it can hold the t-belt tensioner in place. At first I used it to keep the tensioner in it's most "loose" position...but after releasing it...the belt was to loose so I simply applied pressure to it (not the tensioner, but the metal backing plate on the tensioners pulley) to apply sufficient belt tension, then re-tightened that bolt, locking the tensioner in that tightness...of course if the belt stretches any, it won't automatically adjust.
I did the same with the balance shaft belt.
So now I'm worried that in the future...if the belt needs more tension...it won't have it...I'm about to go swap the springs and see how it goes...I'll either edit this post or make another saying how that went.
None of the manuals I've seen mentions either of those 10mm bolts or what you're supposed to do with them afterwords. Do you leave them loose? I was missing the t-belt tensioners 10mm bolt.
*edit...btw I'm driving a 93 accord
*also...the springs were in their correct position before.
Modified by bcjammerx at 9:14 PM 7/25/2007
Modified by bcjammerx at 9:17 PM 7/25/2007
Modified by bcjammerx at 10:08 PM 7/25/2007
07-26-2007, 03:32 AM
#62
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Re: How-To: Replace Timing Belt, Timing Balancer Belt and Water Pump on a F22B1 (maestrojv)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by maestrojv »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">One of the best "How to's" Ive ever seen. Really fantastic, since this is a particularly complex changeout for most diyer's. My civic with the 1.5L was such an easy job in comparison.
Having had to do this myself, after losing a belt while the engine was running (DOH!!), you might consider adding the information on checking the valves, replacement of any bent or damaged ones, checking the head and cylinder surfaces for damage and head flatness, and re-adjustment of valve clearances in this operation as well.
I know was a pita for me to do all this for the first time with the chilton book. Is far too vague on steps required for this job. Really is a shame you werent around with this document then..lol If you have documented a lot of work on this car and engine you should consider publishing. You really include fantastic detail and step by step process of the work involved. I can surely say I would buy it. Great work!!!
John </TD></TR></TABLE>
sorry for the delayed response, I didn't realize there was a reply in the thread.
Thanks, I'm glad you liked the write-up.
No, I don't have anything else I've done to this car as a write-up, sorry.
I agree, the Civic's are easier, I just did the timing belt and that on my Civic recently.
As for checking for bent valves, replacing any bent valve, checking cylinder walls thing. I couldn't add that to this write-up cause I've never had to go through that (knocks on wood). It's not a bad thought for a separate write-up though, so if you'd like you could post a write-up on the process you took to do all that
I agree that adjusting the valves as well as replacing the oil seals is a good idea to do at this time. Unfortunately I don't have any pictures of these even though I know they were done to the car. I'm pretty cure my girls brother did them while I was doing something else so I didn't get any pictures of it to add to the write-up. I did however be sure to take pictures of it on my recent timing belt job for the Civic, not that it matters here
Having had to do this myself, after losing a belt while the engine was running (DOH!!), you might consider adding the information on checking the valves, replacement of any bent or damaged ones, checking the head and cylinder surfaces for damage and head flatness, and re-adjustment of valve clearances in this operation as well.
I know was a pita for me to do all this for the first time with the chilton book. Is far too vague on steps required for this job. Really is a shame you werent around with this document then..lol If you have documented a lot of work on this car and engine you should consider publishing. You really include fantastic detail and step by step process of the work involved. I can surely say I would buy it. Great work!!!
John </TD></TR></TABLE>
sorry for the delayed response, I didn't realize there was a reply in the thread.
Thanks, I'm glad you liked the write-up.
No, I don't have anything else I've done to this car as a write-up, sorry.
I agree, the Civic's are easier, I just did the timing belt and that on my Civic recently.
As for checking for bent valves, replacing any bent valve, checking cylinder walls thing. I couldn't add that to this write-up cause I've never had to go through that (knocks on wood). It's not a bad thought for a separate write-up though, so if you'd like you could post a write-up on the process you took to do all that
I agree that adjusting the valves as well as replacing the oil seals is a good idea to do at this time. Unfortunately I don't have any pictures of these even though I know they were done to the car. I'm pretty cure my girls brother did them while I was doing something else so I didn't get any pictures of it to add to the write-up. I did however be sure to take pictures of it on my recent timing belt job for the Civic, not that it matters here
07-26-2007, 03:46 AM
#63
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Re: (bcjammerx)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bcjammerx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Something that the manuals don't discuss...is how exactly does that 14mm bolt actually adjust tension? I see no mechanism that allows it to do this. All it does is keep the tensioners held together and from coming off that bolt that sticks out of the block. From what I see it does not have the ability to directly influence belt tension. The tensioners have elliptical holes that actually allow them to slide up and down on that bolt...why does the manual say a bolt can tighten the belts? </TD></TR></TABLE>
the 14mm bolt doesn't adjust tension. The 14mm bolt holds the tensioner in place. By loosening the 14mm bolt you are allowing the tensioner and spring to properly tension the belt. Of course, you need to loosen the 14mm bolt, rotate the cam gear counterclockwise 3 teeth and then retighten the 14mm bolt. That should put proper tension on the belt. (Thats just a quick how to adjust the belt, I wrote it out in more detail in the write-up)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bcjammerx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Second, are these the automatic tensioners? With just weak springs I'm not so sure.</TD></TR></TABLE>
no, these would be considered manual tensioner as opposed to the automatic tensioner of the H22.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bcjammerx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Third, my belts are also very loose. I've done numerous t-belts on toyotas and while this is my first honda t-belt, the theories are the same and the tightness of my t-belt is unacceptable, very loose. There is a 10mm bolt that can go into the block and it can hold the t-belt tensioner in place. At first I used it to keep the tensioner in it's most "loose" position...but after releasing it...the belt was to loose so I simply applied pressure to it (not the tensioner, but the metal backing plate on the tensioners pulley) to apply sufficient belt tension, then re-tightened that bolt, locking the tensioner in that tightness...of course if the belt stretches any, it won't automatically adjust.
I did the same with the balance shaft belt.</TD></TR></TABLE>
make sure you go through the proper steps on tensioning the belts. You can't just put the belt in, release the tensioner and expect the belts to be properly tensioned.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bcjammerx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">None of the manuals I've seen mentions either of those 10mm bolts or what you're supposed to do with them afterwords. Do you leave them loose? I was missing the t-belt tensioners 10mm bolt.</TD></TR></TABLE>
uhh... are you referring to the 10mm bolt you used to hold the timing belt tensioner in place and tensioned while you added the balance shaft belt? If so, those 10mm bolts are what hold the timing covers on. Thats why there wasn't one there to start with, cause it's holding the covers on. So after you are done with the timing belt job, you remove that 10mm bolt and use it to put the side cover back on.
I hope this has answered your questions, if not let me know and I or someone else will try to help you out
the 14mm bolt doesn't adjust tension. The 14mm bolt holds the tensioner in place. By loosening the 14mm bolt you are allowing the tensioner and spring to properly tension the belt. Of course, you need to loosen the 14mm bolt, rotate the cam gear counterclockwise 3 teeth and then retighten the 14mm bolt. That should put proper tension on the belt. (Thats just a quick how to adjust the belt, I wrote it out in more detail in the write-up)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bcjammerx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Second, are these the automatic tensioners? With just weak springs I'm not so sure.</TD></TR></TABLE>
no, these would be considered manual tensioner as opposed to the automatic tensioner of the H22.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bcjammerx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Third, my belts are also very loose. I've done numerous t-belts on toyotas and while this is my first honda t-belt, the theories are the same and the tightness of my t-belt is unacceptable, very loose. There is a 10mm bolt that can go into the block and it can hold the t-belt tensioner in place. At first I used it to keep the tensioner in it's most "loose" position...but after releasing it...the belt was to loose so I simply applied pressure to it (not the tensioner, but the metal backing plate on the tensioners pulley) to apply sufficient belt tension, then re-tightened that bolt, locking the tensioner in that tightness...of course if the belt stretches any, it won't automatically adjust.
I did the same with the balance shaft belt.</TD></TR></TABLE>
make sure you go through the proper steps on tensioning the belts. You can't just put the belt in, release the tensioner and expect the belts to be properly tensioned.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bcjammerx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">None of the manuals I've seen mentions either of those 10mm bolts or what you're supposed to do with them afterwords. Do you leave them loose? I was missing the t-belt tensioners 10mm bolt.</TD></TR></TABLE>
uhh... are you referring to the 10mm bolt you used to hold the timing belt tensioner in place and tensioned while you added the balance shaft belt? If so, those 10mm bolts are what hold the timing covers on. Thats why there wasn't one there to start with, cause it's holding the covers on. So after you are done with the timing belt job, you remove that 10mm bolt and use it to put the side cover back on.
I hope this has answered your questions, if not let me know and I or someone else will try to help you out
07-26-2007, 05:56 AM
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Ahhh...now things make since. My manuals don't actually say to "tighten the belt", they just say "loosen the adjusting nut 2/3 -1 turn to tension the timing balancer belt" and likewise for the t-belt...it assume the user knows that they have to apply pressure to tighten the belts.
So what exactly then will correctly adjust the tension, if loosening that bolt as the book says, "will allow you to adjust tension without removing the covers", how is this so? Are those springs in conjunction with the steps you mention for tightening the belt going to actually tighten the belt? I don't think mine is.
Also is there a step missing after 37, one that says how to tighten the balance shafts belt? I see where you discuss the t-belt.
See I haven't seen anywhere where someone says specifically how to manually tighten the belts aside from your step number 36. But doing that with mine just doesn't seem to get the belt tight enough. Isn't simply turning the cam three teeth back still relying on spring pressure to tighten the belt?
Of course this was all done late last night and I was frustrated and very tired...I will retry later today.
THANKS FOR YOUR HELP
oh yeah...GREAT write up...pics of the ACTUAL car is awesome...the whole time I'm looking at manuals I'm thinking "who changes the t-belt on an brand new engine?"
So what exactly then will correctly adjust the tension, if loosening that bolt as the book says, "will allow you to adjust tension without removing the covers", how is this so? Are those springs in conjunction with the steps you mention for tightening the belt going to actually tighten the belt? I don't think mine is.
Also is there a step missing after 37, one that says how to tighten the balance shafts belt? I see where you discuss the t-belt.
See I haven't seen anywhere where someone says specifically how to manually tighten the belts aside from your step number 36. But doing that with mine just doesn't seem to get the belt tight enough. Isn't simply turning the cam three teeth back still relying on spring pressure to tighten the belt?
Of course this was all done late last night and I was frustrated and very tired...I will retry later today.
THANKS FOR YOUR HELP
oh yeah...GREAT write up...pics of the ACTUAL car is awesome...the whole time I'm looking at manuals I'm thinking "who changes the t-belt on an brand new engine?"
07-26-2007, 06:43 AM
#65
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (bcjammerx)
What it says EXACTLY in the Helms Manual
Note:
- The tensioner is spring loaded to apply proper tension to the belt automatically after making the following adjustments.
-Always rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise when viewed from the pulley side. Rotating it clockwise may result in improper adjustment of the belt tension.
- Inspect the timing balancer belt before adjusting the belt tension
- Do not loosen the adjusting nut more then one full turn
1. Disconnect the battery negative terminal first then positive terminal.
2.Disconnect to the alternator terminal and the connector, then remove the engine wire harness from the cylinder head cover.
3. Remove the cylinder head cover.
4. Set the NO.1 Position at TDC
5. Rotate the crankshaft 5-6 revolutions to set the belt
6. set the No1. piston at TDC
7. Loosen the adjusting nut 2/3 - 1 turn
8. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise 3 teeth on the camshaft pulley
9. Tighten the adjusting nut.
10. After adjusting. re torque the crankshaft pulley bolt to 245N-m (25.0 kgf-m, 181 ibf-ft)
would provide images but i belive we arent allowed to from the helms manual
Note:
- The tensioner is spring loaded to apply proper tension to the belt automatically after making the following adjustments.
-Always rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise when viewed from the pulley side. Rotating it clockwise may result in improper adjustment of the belt tension.
- Inspect the timing balancer belt before adjusting the belt tension
- Do not loosen the adjusting nut more then one full turn
1. Disconnect the battery negative terminal first then positive terminal.
2.Disconnect to the alternator terminal and the connector, then remove the engine wire harness from the cylinder head cover.
3. Remove the cylinder head cover.
4. Set the NO.1 Position at TDC
5. Rotate the crankshaft 5-6 revolutions to set the belt
6. set the No1. piston at TDC
7. Loosen the adjusting nut 2/3 - 1 turn
8. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise 3 teeth on the camshaft pulley
9. Tighten the adjusting nut.
10. After adjusting. re torque the crankshaft pulley bolt to 245N-m (25.0 kgf-m, 181 ibf-ft)
would provide images but i belive we arent allowed to from the helms manual
07-26-2007, 07:04 AM
#66
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Re: (bcjammerx)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bcjammerx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ahhh...now things make since. My manuals don't actually say to "tighten the belt", they just say "loosen the adjusting nut 2/3 -1 turn to tension the timing balancer belt" and likewise for the t-belt...it assume the user knows that they have to apply pressure to tighten the belts.</TD></TR></TABLE>
nope, the user should not be putting any extra pressure on the belt to help tighten them.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bcjammerx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So what exactly then will correctly adjust the tension, if loosening that bolt as the book says, "will allow you to adjust tension without removing the covers", how is this so? Are those springs in conjunction with the steps you mention for tightening the belt going to actually tighten the belt? I don't think mine is.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes, you just loosen the bolt, turn the cam gear back 3 teeth and then retighten the bolt. The springs will do the rest and tension the belt to the proper tension. You don't want, nor should you have to add extra tension to the belts.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bcjammerx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also is there a step missing after 37, one that says how to tighten the balance shafts belt? I see where you discuss the t-belt.</TD></TR></TABLE>
nope, no step missing. Still have to add a note about the motor mount though Take a look at steps 32-37, in there it says to turn the crankshaft about 1 turn counter-clockwise to tension the balancer shaft belt.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bcjammerx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Isn't simply turning the cam three teeth back still relying on spring pressure to tighten the belt?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep, thats how these tensioners work.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bcjammerx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">THANKS FOR YOUR HELP
oh yeah...GREAT write up...pics of the ACTUAL car is awesome...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks
I did this hoping it would help people in doing this job. It was and still is at times a commonly asked question. I'm glad people are finding it useful.
nope, the user should not be putting any extra pressure on the belt to help tighten them.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bcjammerx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So what exactly then will correctly adjust the tension, if loosening that bolt as the book says, "will allow you to adjust tension without removing the covers", how is this so? Are those springs in conjunction with the steps you mention for tightening the belt going to actually tighten the belt? I don't think mine is.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes, you just loosen the bolt, turn the cam gear back 3 teeth and then retighten the bolt. The springs will do the rest and tension the belt to the proper tension. You don't want, nor should you have to add extra tension to the belts.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bcjammerx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also is there a step missing after 37, one that says how to tighten the balance shafts belt? I see where you discuss the t-belt.</TD></TR></TABLE>
nope, no step missing. Still have to add a note about the motor mount though
Take a look at steps 32-37, in there it says to turn the crankshaft about 1 turn counter-clockwise to tension the balancer shaft belt.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bcjammerx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Isn't simply turning the cam three teeth back still relying on spring pressure to tighten the belt?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep, thats how these tensioners work.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bcjammerx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">THANKS FOR YOUR HELP
oh yeah...GREAT write up...pics of the ACTUAL car is awesome...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks
I did this hoping it would help people in doing this job. It was and still is at times a commonly asked question. I'm glad people are finding it useful.
07-26-2007, 01:20 PM
#67
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Re: (TouringAccord)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">After being away from Accords for 3+ years I'm coming back!</TD></TR></TABLE>
I just saw that, Yay!!!!
I just saw that, Yay!!!!
07-26-2007, 04:10 PM
#68
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TouringAccord, great writeup...
Forgive the newbie question..spent all my adult life wrenching VWs/Audis and haven't had to work on my wife's Accord too often.
Do you break the crankshaft bolt loose in the same direction you would any other bolt - left loose and right tight? Your How-to seems to look that way given but I wanted to check. I just want to be sure I am applying pressure in the right direction to loosen and not tighten.
Thanks in advance!
Forgive the newbie question..spent all my adult life wrenching VWs/Audis and haven't had to work on my wife's Accord too often.
Do you break the crankshaft bolt loose in the same direction you would any other bolt - left loose and right tight? Your How-to seems to look that way given but I wanted to check. I just want to be sure I am applying pressure in the right direction to loosen and not tighten.
Thanks in advance!
07-27-2007, 12:47 AM
#69
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (Donuts)
Hey Touring:
Regarding the crankshaft pulley holding tool by Schley:
Which tool are you referencing?:
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.ne....html
or
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-4731.html
thanks in advance
edit: i realize one is by OTC
Regarding the crankshaft pulley holding tool by Schley:
Which tool are you referencing?:
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.ne....html
or
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-4731.html
thanks in advance
edit: i realize one is by OTC
07-27-2007, 03:03 AM
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Re: (RotaryBzzzz)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RotaryBzzzz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey Touring:
Regarding the crankshaft pulley holding tool by Schley:
Which tool are you referencing?:</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can also get the Alltrade one from Amazon. $24.99 and free s&H when you find something else to boost you over $25.
http://www.amazon.com/Alltrade...r=1-1
Regarding the crankshaft pulley holding tool by Schley:
Which tool are you referencing?:</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can also get the Alltrade one from Amazon. $24.99 and free s&H when you find something else to boost you over $25.
http://www.amazon.com/Alltrade...r=1-1
07-27-2007, 04:56 AM
#71
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Re: (Donuts)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Donuts »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">TouringAccord, great writeup...
Do you break the crankshaft bolt loose in the same direction you would any other bolt - left loose and right tight? Your How-to seems to look that way given but I wanted to check. I just want to be sure I am applying pressure in the right direction to loosen and not tighten.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks
yep, left loose - right tight
Do you break the crankshaft bolt loose in the same direction you would any other bolt - left loose and right tight? Your How-to seems to look that way given but I wanted to check. I just want to be sure I am applying pressure in the right direction to loosen and not tighten.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks
yep, left loose - right tight
07-27-2007, 05:05 AM
#72
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Re: (RotaryBzzzz)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RotaryBzzzz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey Touring:
Regarding the crankshaft pulley holding tool by Schley:
Which tool are you referencing?:
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.ne....html
or
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-4731.html
</TD></TR></TABLE>
In Step 10 you will find a direct link to the tool I bought. It's model number by Schley is 60100. Heres a link anyway...
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/SP-60100.html
Looking at the Schley 60100A you linked, it's just an updated model of what I bought. It seems what they are saying is that some of the newer engines have a deeper pulley requiring the further offset that this tool was designed with. So either model should work, get the newer one if you feel you'll be working on newer engines or which ever one is cheaper, should both work just the same.
As for the OTC tool you posted or the Alltrade tool Donuts posted, they should both work as well.
Regarding the crankshaft pulley holding tool by Schley:
Which tool are you referencing?:
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.ne....html
or
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-4731.html
</TD></TR></TABLE>
In Step 10 you will find a direct link to the tool I bought. It's model number by Schley is 60100. Heres a link anyway...
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/SP-60100.html
Looking at the Schley 60100A you linked, it's just an updated model of what I bought. It seems what they are saying is that some of the newer engines have a deeper pulley requiring the further offset that this tool was designed with. So either model should work, get the newer one if you feel you'll be working on newer engines or which ever one is cheaper, should both work just the same.
As for the OTC tool you posted or the Alltrade tool Donuts posted, they should both work as well.
07-27-2007, 05:11 AM
#73
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Re: (BoostedH23Accord)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoostedH23Accord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just saw that, Yay!!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sent you an IM
Sent you an IM
07-28-2007, 11:30 AM
#74
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (TouringAccord)
Awesome man thanks.
I think over time, you're probably saving the world a couple ten's of thousands of dollars. You're a global citizen man! Good ole yankee DIY ingenuity + photoshop skillz.
I think over time, you're probably saving the world a couple ten's of thousands of dollars. You're a global citizen man! Good ole yankee DIY ingenuity + photoshop skillz.
07-29-2007, 03:48 PM
#75
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Re: (Honda_Accord)
Your haynes for a 97 accord may say that, but my haynes for a 93 doesn't 
any way...the t-belt spring is prolly just a little lax, but most likely fine
...here's the problem, the balance shaft tensioner spring. On that tensioner, the springs coils are completely touching each other (just like when you take the spring off and have it just setting on the table) and it's not pulling on the tensioner at all, it is completely compressed and there is no tension. A worn spring doesn't do that. A wrong spring does, but this isn't the wrong spring...either way doesn't matter...
I now know how tight to get it (not that much) and I'll do it by hand.
As for the t-belt, of course I know this, isn't supposed to be as tight as a drive belt and I've gotten some specs for it as well so I'll re-do the install procedure and double check it.
With interference engines I don't take anything for granted and yes, I will question any procedure in a manual I don't think is working right, after all, I don't have enough phalanges to count the number of times Haynes has been wrong and as to factory service manuals...HA HA...they're not much better
Thanks for the help all!
any way...the t-belt spring is prolly just a little lax, but most likely fine
...here's the problem, the balance shaft tensioner spring. On that tensioner, the springs coils are completely touching each other (just like when you take the spring off and have it just setting on the table) and it's not pulling on the tensioner at all, it is completely compressed and there is no tension. A worn spring doesn't do that. A wrong spring does, but this isn't the wrong spring...either way doesn't matter...
I now know how tight to get it (not that much) and I'll do it by hand.
As for the t-belt, of course I know this, isn't supposed to be as tight as a drive belt and I've gotten some specs for it as well so I'll re-do the install procedure and double check it.
With interference engines I don't take anything for granted and yes, I will question any procedure in a manual I don't think is working right, after all, I don't have enough phalanges to count the number of times Haynes has been wrong and as to factory service manuals...HA HA...they're not much better
Thanks for the help all!