jvr

So last summer I decided to tinker a bit with my Accord and discovered the PCV valve was totally sludged up, so I replaced the valve/hose/grommet. Then I discovered tons of oil in the spark plug tubes so I replaced the upper and lower spark plug tube seals, the valve cover gasket, and spark plugs. In the process of doing the lower tube seals I also did a valve adjustment (thanks to the guidance of this site). Everything was great until a few weeks later, when the engine started dying at stop signs and wouldn't idle smoothly, if at all (it threw a check engine light at this time).

I had just bought a new motorcycle so I kinda said "screw it" and let the Honda sit for like 5 months not wanting to deal with it. Well, I finally decided I needed a car so this weekend I used a jumper box to get it started (barely), babied it at around 2k rpm to keep it running and charge the dead battery, and confirmed that the CEL popped on again. I jumpered the connector under the passenger dash and got the fault code 41: primary heated oxygen sensor circuit error. I tested the o2 sensor for resistance and got nothing, so today I ordered a new sensor. I got a Denso o2 sensor delivered same-day for $62 total from a local parts warehouse, and installed it in about 20min. MAN was that old one rusted in there, I thought I was going to have to re-tap the threads while I was cranking that thing off. New sensor went in easily after cleaning up the threads in the manifold, disconnected the battery to clear the fault, put a few gallons of fresh gas in the tank, and it started right up on its own power! Idles smoothly, runs great, and no CEL in sight!

I can't believe it took me this long to fix this poor accord, it's been sitting forever and it only took me an hour and 60 bucks to fix. Derp. So now my plan is to do a bunch of maintenance and possibly chronicle it in this thread.

List of things to be done within the next few weeks:

1. Put the battery on a real charger at work and test it afterward to see if it's still good after being drained so long. (done, battery is at 400cca and needs to be replaced soon)
2. Replace the split right-inner CV boot, or alternatively, just replace both half-shafts since they're only $30-50 on RockAuto.
3. Replace both of the shattered front marker light assemblies (i have the parts already, just need to install them)
4. Do a full inspection of the brake system, suspension, steering, tires, etc to check for any urgent problems. (done: brakes are good, need upper ball joints and rear lower strut bushings).
5. Clean out the interior.
6. Change the oil/filter. (done, plus ran a cleaning additive through the old oil prior to draining it)

Things banging around in my head:
1. Replace all major suspension components.
2. Replace driver's door - there's some damage that wouldn't easily be repaired (need to figure out if switching my handle/lock into a new door is feasible)
3. Replace trunk (sister backed up into a cement ledge)
4. Replace spark plug wires, distributor cap/rotor.
5. Replace most/all rubber hoses.
6. Before summer, diagnose my A/C problem (works for a day, blows fan fuse, I replace fuse and it works for a day before blowing again). I think it's the fan motor but I'll have to spend a little time on it before I start throwing parts at it.
7. Compression test of all cylinders to check engine condition and possibly determine whether it's in good enough shape to throw a turbo project at it.

Will update as it progresses. Glad to be back, I hope I can contribute something to the community!

jvr

Today I ran the engine with some BG Quick Clean added to the oil to clean out the sludge that has built up, then did an oil change and tire rotation. Upon inspection I found a torn CV boot (known issue), a torn power steering rack boot, 4 cracked/mangled upper ball joints, 2 cracked rear lower strut bushings, and a pretty rusty muffler. The oil pan gasket looks like it's seeping oil a bit, but it could've been residual from changing the oil filter previously so I just cleaned it off and will check again later. I also tried to charge the battery... it wouldn't charge automatically (it just said to replace it), but I did a 1hr manual charge then retested it. Voltage isn't horrible but the cca is down at 400 (rated at 700) so it looks like a new battery is in my future. Alternator and starter both tested fine.

For the knowledgeable guys here, do any of the above items seem like something I need to replace with OEM parts, or would RockAuto generic parts be acceptable? For sensors and ignition/electrical stuff I always buy OEM but if I can save some $$ here I'd prefer to go that route. I will be doing this work myself so spending hours trying to get an aftermarket ball joint to fit when it wasn't manufactured to the right spec isn't on my list of fun ways to spend an afternoon, lol.

Tachi

Sounds like you have a nice project there.

I wouldn't use remanufactured cv's, and ideally I'd use Moog (or Import Direct) ball joints/ect, but that gets expensive quick. You don't have to use OEM, but the cheap **** at Oreilly's and AutoZone is cheap for a reason.

It sounds like if you're going to have front and rear suspension apart you might as well throw some lowering springs or a Ground Control kit in there if your thinking of a turbo in future.

jvr

I got off work early today and knocked out a few jobs.

First, I replaced the battery with an Interstate 800cca model.

Then I took off the FITV, tightened up the white ring a bit, and cleaned out some gunk. Then I removed the IACV and cleaned it out completely with carb cleaner... man that thing was a mess! While the throttle body was exposed I cleaned off the inside walls with carb cleaner and a toothbrush, and cleaned both sides of the butterfly valve. After putting a bit of dielectric grease on the o-rings on the FITV/IACV, I reinstalled everything and started it up to ensure I didn't mess anything up. It ran fine but the idle was still very low (like 350-400rpm), which has been a problem for awhile now.

Before messing with the idle, I popped off the brake booster vacuum line and dropped some seafoam into the intake manifold. After shutting it off and letting it sit for 5min, I started it up (to a poof of smoke) and drove it "spiritedly" for 20min.

Now that the intake/TB/FITV/IACV were all clean and functioning properly, I decided to reset my base idle. After ensuring I had no vacuum leaks and checking the throttle cable/stop, I jumpered the blue connector under the passenger dash, unplugged the IACV, and set the idle to 550rpm via the screw on top of the TB. Then I turned everything off, un-jumpered the connector, plugged in the IACV, and pulled the ECU fuse to reset the ECU while the engine cooled down. Once cool, I started it up and idled it until the fan cycled on twice. Everything works great! Fast/cold idle is working still but now it idles right at 700 when warm instead of 400. Mission accomplished!

jvr

Replaced the distributor cap and rotor today. Checked spark plug wire resistance and they were all in spec so I'm leaving them be. Spark plugs were replaced when I did the lower tube seals last summer so they should be gtg too. Tomorrow I plan on cleaning out the EGR ports, hopefully I don't need a replacement EGR port cover gasket because I couldn't find anyone that sells one (or even anyone who could figure out wth I was talking about lol).

Should I reset the ecu after doing the dizzy cap/rotor?

Lost Again

The metal gasket on the plate can be used again.....if you need a new one the dealer is about the only place you will find it.