95accordCE6

Hey guys what I'm trying to do is swap an F23a4 from a 00 accord and a P2A8 manual trans from a 98 accord into my 95 accord lx wagon. I'm not doing the swap for performance, it is only because low mileage f22s are getting hard to come by and I got a fair price on the f23. My main concern is the transmission and my questions are
1) will the original shift linkage work with the p2a8 trans
2)will I be able to use the f22 flywheel I already have on the f23 engine/trans (engine was pulled from an auto) and if so which clutch to use
3)will the f22 axles fit the new transmission

To clarify why I bought the engine and trans separate, I had been planning to swap the f23 engine in this weekend and have already gathered the parts I need for the swap...then today transmission issues came about (5th gear grinds and can't get into reverse) and rather than rebuilding the p2a4 I'd like to just replace it. I've been searching all day to try and find out as much about the p2a8 as possible with little to no luck. I'm sorry for the drawn out post, I just want to make sure I can do this swap as quickly as possible so that my family and I can get around, and any help is appreciated

Aradin

1.)Assuming your car was originally a manual, yes.
2.)Yes. All manual H/F(aside from s2k stuff) flywheels and clutches are interchangeable. If it's going to be stock, an exedy OEM replacement is always a good bet. Be sure to get the flywheel resurfaced.
3.)Yes.

95accordCE6

It was originally manual so that's a plus. Is there anything you can think of that could be an issue with this swap? Thank you for your reply

Tdaar

F23 swap in Gen 5 - Honda Accord Forum - Honda Accord Enthusiast Forums

t really is a straight forward swap. Pull one out put other in. Depending what ecu you plan to use is how much work will be needed. Obd1 or obd2.

This is the write up I refrenced while doing it.

95accordCE6

Ive been throuugh that thread a dozen times and its very informative about the engine swap, it only lacks info about the trans because his was auto and he stuck with a 97 trans. Obviously the p2a8 isnt winning any performance awards because of its longer gearing and lack of lsd but i needed something. Thank you both for your posts

chrisnick

Everything should go in just fine. That guide is pretty dead on, I can't think of much off the top of my head that I had to do when I swapped an F23A1 into my '97 LX. I forget which throttle cable bracket I used(F23 or F22), but all I had to do was adjust the cable to get the correct amount of tension/slack with my F22B2 cables and the F23A1 intake manifold; there was no cutting or drilling required of the bracket I used. The person who did that swap guide probably had an issue since he originally had an automatic car.

Using the P2A8 should be of no issue. I lucked out and someone had already put the '94 Wagon P2A5 into my car so it had the 4.266FD. Didn't realize it helped out so much until I drove a friend's stock EX sedan and couldn't figure out why the revs were lower on the freeway and it felt slower. Did a few calculations and figured out mine had the shorter FD. Whoduhthunk? Keep the P2A4 just for the diff/FD.

As far as the IACV goes, the Rosko one is just too thin to get away with just bolting it on and going. The lower coolant hose WILL rub on the TPS, and you WILL rub a hole in that hose over time if you don't cut it down/put a small flare on the end for the hose. I had to do that with mine, and I'm really not convinced it's a great option. Just getting a thicker 3/4-1" IACV adapter(or not the Rosko one, which is a shame because it's a beautiful piece), or another brand will solve the issue, or even doing a remote mount IACV.

Being an LX, you have a couple of other things to deal with, as well. You'll either need to convert to an OBD1 EX internal coil distributor(just do it, it's worth it), or change the 1-3 and 2-4 plug wire positions on the distributor and find a way to mount the external coil if you plan to use the LX distributor(which is what I did). Either way bolts right up to the F23.

You'll also have to swap out the plastic coolant elbow on the exhaust side of the engine with the one from your F22B2, which is necessary anywhere because there's a coolant temp sensor there.

Wiring VTEC is very easy, I'm sure you can figure that one out on your own with a little googling.

I chose to delete the A/C since my system had a hole in it and had LONG evacuated it's freon. I used a non-A/C equipped DX belt. If you keep yours, use the F23's A/C bracket, it's aluminum and a LOT lighter.

The F23's have a knock sensor, the F22's do not. Just remove the knock sensor from under the manifold on the F23, and use the plug that the F22's have installed.

I don't know about how easy yours will be to remove, but on mine, the driver side engine side mount studs were a BITCH to remove from the F22B2's bracket to install on the F23's. I ended up using an old bolt from another Honda's transmission I owned in the past since I couldn't get one out. One(or both, can't recall) of the stud's on the F23's bracket is too long, hence why they need to be replaced with the F22's.

The water pump is the same part number as the F22A's and F22B's for the F23's.

Can't think of much else, but if anything pops up, post, and I'll try to get you an answer.

Please excuse the blurry pic, zip tie'd battery tie down, and dirty engine bay.

Fitz Williams

iTrader: (1)

As to the knock sensor, the F22 has 8.8 compression and the F23 has 9.3 . Has the increase in compression caused you any problems, like spark knock on 87 octane gas? Is it necessary to run higher octane rating?

chrisnick

I've heard zero knock or issues running 87 octane. I think it's there because the F23's ECU will advance and retard timing taking feedback from the knock sensor- the F22B1 does not have this, nor is it in the F22B1's ECU. The car feels MAYBE a hair stronger with 93 in it, but it's probably just my imagination. I run a set of factory plugs with whatever their gapped at in the box from NGK. Almost all my replacement/maintenance parts on my car are OEM Honda, the only things that are not have been upgraded with better aftermarket parts that improve performance in some sense.

Fitz Williams

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. I was wondering if the ECU was compensating for the increased compression with the 87 octane gas. Good to know it isn't.

chrisnick

9.3:1 is still pretty low, and the timing maps aren't very aggressive at all. Without a knock sensor, there's no way the ecu can really know what the engine's doing combustion wise besides the A/F ratio feedback from o2 sensor.

95accordCE6

An update, the f23a4 and p2a8 trans are in the car and it's running using the stock f22b2 external coil distributor and an iac adapter from black trax. My current issue is the driver side axle is too long. It seems to be approximately 1-2" from fitting, according to parts store information my stock cv shaft is 24 3/8...the stock 98+ accord cv is even longer (25 and change if I recall) I have no other car and desperately need this thing back together. I've been searching like crazy and so far the only other possibility I've found is a cv for a 92 accord that measures 23 1/2" but I don't know if it will fit my current intermediate shaft, the spline count is the same but I'm unsure if the depth is different. If anyone can provide some insight it would be greatly appreciated.

chrisnick

Which intermediate shaft and driveshafts are you using/trying to use? I used my stock '97 LX driveshafts and intermediate shaft with no issues. Sounds like you're trying to use the intermediate shaft off the 98-02.

95accordCE6

95lx intermediate. The intermediate bolts up just fine but the cv is too long to go in the knuckle. Im positive both parts of the shaft arei in all the way...im going to try the 91/92 accord axle today and see if that works.

chrisnick

Weird, was it ever replaced by you previously? If you're running the same intermediate shaft and axles as pre-swap, there should be no issue.

95accordCE6

No I've never replaced them. An update, I was able to use the 23.5" cv shaft for a 91 accord manual so if anyone else ever runs into this problem that's what worked for me. Now that that's figured out and its back together I just need to readjust ignition timing and sort out an idle surge, which may just be air in the coolant. Thank you for your help chris, I'm glad someone else out there has done a similar swap. From what i understand 16° btdc is the sweet spot for ignition timing, is that correct?