AndyD

iTrader: (1)

Hi all,

I am having an issue with my newly swapped VERY clean JDM F23A into my 1997 Accord LX wagon. There is a lot to cover on the background of the swap. I tried to change literally as much as I could while the engine was out. The car has 262K miles on it, so it is best to change it all now.

Issue:
When I tried to start my car immediately after getting the engine into the car, the car cranked over and started immediately, ran, but ran rough. I got the following codes:
P0135 - O2 sensor heater element issue
P0302 - Misfire in cylinder 2
P1399 - Random misfire detected

The car runs rough, engine shakes around, and the exhaust stinks of gas. When I rev it up, it sounds like a Subaru WRX Boxer engine. I tried pulling the #2 spark plug wire and the RPMs dropped. The timing belt was flapping around, too. So I immediately addressed that issue. That was not fun messing with the timing belt while the engine is in the car. Read below on how I replaced the timing belt before I swapped the engine in.

I also noticed I had the vacuum lines connected to the wrong ports on the tubes connected to the driver's side strut tower. I had the EGR one connected to the bottom line on the strut tower. I thought that was the reason for the misfire issue and that once the timing belt was fixed, everything would be working as it should.

While I was working on the timing belt, I figured I would do it right from scratch. It surprised me when the timing was out of timing! I am talking about the cam and crank timing, not just the oil pump and balancer belt. Didn't make sense to me since those two parts don't move at all when the belts are taken off like the oil pump and balancer pullies move. Shocked me!

Once I got the timing belt on properly, I tried to crank the car. Now it was behaving worse! The car would crank but every now and again, while the engine was turning over, there seemed to be a misfire that cause the engine to completely stop the starter dead in its tracks. It would stop dead for 1 second, then start cranking again. It will start, but run rough like it originally was.

I did some research and found these possible causes for misfires:
Distributor, dist. cap and rotor, spark plug wires, spark plugs, timing out of wack, low/no compression in cyl 2, EGR clogged, low fuel pressure, bad injector, valves need adjustment, or a crank sensor issue. Also vacuum leaks.

I started troubleshooting more. I swapped cyl 2 spark plug and wire with cyl 1 spark plug and wire. I swapped injector #2 completely out and replaced it with injector 1 and then installed a spare injector into cyl #1. I also cleaned the EGR passage out on top of the intake manifold. It was caked up BAD! Every passage way and hole was clogged. Vacuumed it all up and it put it all back together. Again, wasn't able to get the EGR valve off still. Rusted/stripped bolts. I also checked for intake manifold leaks. Don't see any!

When I started the car after doing the above, the car has the following codes:
P0135 - O2 sensor
P0300 - New
P0301 - New cyl 1 misfire code
P0302 - Cyl #2 misfire
P1399 - Random misfire

I'm using the F22B2 OEM intake manifold and everything connected to it from my F22B2, the original F22B2 distributor and coil, and the original F22B2 ECU. I have a 96-97 sedan/coupe ECU that I haven't put in yet. I read people have used the non-VTEC ECU without any issues under 3500 RPM. I can change it if anyone thinks it might be causing the problem.

I changed the following:

-Brand new Honda OEM distributor cap, rotor.
-New NGK spark plugs. Laser Platinum PZFR5F-11 4363
-NGK 8028 Spark plug wires. -

Things I think might have caused the problem:
-Changed both distributor seals - internal and external o-ring seal. Took the whole distributor apart to replace the internal seal obviously. The rotor had a stuck retaining screw that I had to dremel out. I wonder if some metal shavings are causing the problem.
-While the F22B2 intake manifold was out, I sprayed carb cleaner in it randomly to clean the runners. Took the top part off and tried to clean it. I didn't clean the EGR valve port. I couldn't get it off because the 2 bolts holding it on were rusted on (262K miles) and I had changed so much and the car ran fine with the intake manifold before I pulled the engine, I was ready to get the car back together. Wondering if while I was cleaning the intake manifold, the EGR valve got gunked up more somehow.
-New OEM Honda fuel filter
-Cleaned as many grounds and power connections I could while the engine was out.
-Running original non-VTEC ECU. VTEC wire obviously not connected yet
-Changed timing belt. It was my first time changing it. Changed it while the engine was out. I pulled off the belts without getting it to TDC thinking if everything was already in timing, might as well just pull everything off as it was and just put the new one one. Same for the balancer belt. Not a good idea, I know.


Things I changed but shouldn't be causing the problem:
-New valvecover gasket set.
-All new heater rubber heater hoses that connect to the black metal water pipe in the back of the engine to the firewall.
-New thermostat and gasket.
-OEM Honda New radiator hoses.
-Lightweight flywheel and new Exedy OEM style clutch
-New engine mounts
-AEM shortram intake
-New intake manifold gasket
-New oil and filter
-New rebuilt steering rack
-New tie rods
-New PS and alternator belts.
-New axles.
-New exhaust pipe gaskets for header, downpipe, and cat.

I'm planning to pull the distributor next and check to make sure there aren't any residual metal shavings in there. I know it will probably be the EGR valve. That will be something that will take a lot more time to address though.

Any ideas?

AndyD

iTrader: (1)

Well, I decided to pull all the spark plug wires and completely redo them. I don't know if I had 2 out of the correct firing order or what, but the car is running fine now. The engine RPM is a little high but it's running well.

There seems to be a vacuum leak somewhere though. If I rev up the engine and let the RPMs drop on their own, the RPMs will bounce up and down unless I step on the gas a little and slowly let off the gas pedal. I ran into this issue before on another car but I can't remember exactly what the solution was. Will figure it out.

Soooo relieved right now! Swapping out the ECU and plugging in the VTEC wire. Hope to put all of that to rest and take it for a drive!

chrisnick

Yeah, 1-3 and 4-2 need to be switched when using the F22B2 distributor on the VTEC engines. I ran around with the F22B2 ECU for a while, it was fine unless I tried to rev it higher than about 3500-absolute dog after that. Swapped in a 96-97 EX/VTEC ECU and it's been great since! I'm getting a lean code probably from a bad gasket on the upper to lower flange on my header(crap ebay ****) and another unrelated code(P1298 if I recall), but I LOVE the power of this engine. I'm also using the F23A1 intake manifold, I forget which guide I used to do it, but I originally had it on my F22B2 before I did my swap. As far as the vacuum leak, check all your small vacuum lines, as well as the PCV valve hose.