shadetree101

My '95 Accord EX(JDM F22B1) has been running like a top up until today. I was on my way home and when I would let off the gas I would get a weird rumbling noise. As I got closer to home it started stumbling/rumbling and slightly missing at take off and continued to rumble when I let off the gas. When I got home I popped the hood and found two vaccume hoses on the back of the intake manifold unhooked because of my amp power wired that was there when I bought the car. Instead of taking it out I just worked around it and it goes under my clutch for some reason. Long and short...I hooked the hoses back up and its still doing the same thing. I have new everything just about except for sparkplug wires. which I pulled each one off at a time and got the same response for each. So I'm guessing they are still good by that. Ive cleaned IACV & FITV prior to this as well. What could be the problem?

P.S. it's idling low after bouncing for a min or two

phootbag

Maybe they fell off when you were drifting.

shadetree101

funny but no...no drifting attempts just yet pootbag

lazlong

Have you checked for codes?

shadetree101

CEL isnt on but i will check it ne ways


checked and no codes

poorman212

Ok, we can assume you put the two hases back on correctly...not switched.

Bleed the coolant.

Does it only do this after it warms up or all the time?

GhostAccord

Reset the ECU and look for anymore possible vacuum leaks. Check all of your hoses and also around all of the intake manifold and throttle body gaskets, IACV, FITV and injector o-rings/gaskets.

Could also check your coolant level, add coolant if low and bleed. If you removed the FITV there could be an air bubble trapped in there somewhere.


You don't go e-brake sliding in your Accord... still have the ABS active! j/k

shadetree101

what is the proper way to bleed the coolant? i know there is a bleeder on the thermostat but i dont wanna crank on it while its running and slash hot stuff on my face lol

intake manifold gasket is brand new, it prolly wouldnt hurt to change the tb gasket..

does ne one have a picture of the hoses that come out of the back driverside of the intake manifold? that would be awsome and greatly appreciated!

lol slide...drift....tomato...tomata

shadetree101

its wierd because when i give it gas it doesnt mess up past 2500 rpm...anything less than that is when it acts up...

shadetree101

i found a post where it said to(with the car off) open the radiator cap and crack the bleeder and let run till solid fluid come out...it was solid the whole time...my dad said to crank it with the cap off and sit there and watch it a fill it as the level drops and the bubbles come out. well i did both and still the same issue. it seems to be a little bit better but not much...not too sure whats goin on. im gonna buy like 10 feet of the small hose and replace as much as my pocket will let me in hoses. everything seems to be good as far as the appearance

shadetree101

ok so its not idling low or bouncing anymore and runs well after 2500...anyone with any input?

poorman212

So when warm, it runs bad at low rpm's....or when warm or cold?

phootbag

Unsure what hoses you're talking about. Have you tried switching hoses in case you hooked them up incorrectly?

poorman212

oh, yea. Forgot to get an answer on that one....time to give up for tonight...Thanks phoot.

shadetree101

only when warm...and when i accelerate slowly...if i gas it then it seems to run somewhat normal with no odd noises like i've been experiencing.

its the small hoses on the right hand side of the intake manifold when you are looking from the front of the car...two go back towards the firewall and two go out the front. they run vertically. the ones on the front have a third slot on the bottom that is capped off.

sorry it took so long to respond back i had after work obligations.

could spark plug gap have anything to do with it? i put new ones in and i've never gapped b4 so figured i really didnt need to. although the problem didnt start until a day after replacing them.

also could cruise control have any effect on this matter? i just reconnected the cable for it a couple days prior to this issue...it didnt work until i reset the ecu yesterday...

thanks guys for your help!

41184ek9

did u check the pcv valve

shadetree101

sure didnt...that would make it act crazy like that?
thats the one that goes from valve cover to intake manifold right?

shadetree101

ok update...pcv valve checked and ok. although it doesnt make a clicking noise you can hear and feal something moving inside it. im going to pick up a new one tomm. i switched the small vaccume hoses on the back of the intake manifold and it made no difference at all...

i forgot to add as well that it acts up the most when i try to cruise at one speed when in a gear that the rpm's are below 2500. so when i drive i cruise in a lower gear so my rpm's stay above that...

92CB7BITCHES

I had almost the same problem on a hatchback I had. Did you check the TPS? Is the engine built any? I had to buy performance plugs and plug wires for my 92 Accord the other day because it was running like crap. Got NGK performance wires and the good NGK plugs and shes back to running all over B series cars. Try that and see if it helps.

shadetree101

no its bone stock...besides a k&n cold air intake...i just put NGK G-power plugs (cheapest ones)...im debating on throwing them back at O'reillys if thats my problem...imma stick the old ones back in and see what happens! thanks for the info!

oregonorganic76

My car is having about the same problem right now..........I'm getting stuck.

shadetree101

yeah i feal ya on that bro...i just replaced my pcv valve and 10 foot of small vaccume hoses...i guess next is going to the next size in hose and replacing that too...almost everything else is freaking new...i put my old spark plugs in to see if it were the new ones....same crap...gapped the new plugs while i had them out to .040(were at .030)...im lost as far as anything else and everyone i tell about it dont have the slightest clue

I've also switched distributors with and older one I had laying around...appearantly that did make a difference either

shadetree101

one more thing....i said earlier in this thread it only does this when warm....correction it does it at all times if that helps...sorry im a 'tard

p.s. im going to try replacing the fuel filter as well...

holmesnmanny

While the car is running pull a spark plug wire from a spark plug. If the car runs worse than that particular cylinder is fine. Do each one. If any of the wires, when pulled, causes no change in how the car is idling, you've found the particular problem cylinder.

If this doesn't pinpoint then it's obviously something else.

shadetree101

Thanks for the input anyways man...at least people are trying