potholesSUCK23

I picked up a 98 accord, 2.3 Vtec, with a manual trans the other day and I've got a couple issues I could use a hand with.

1. Check engine light doesn't come on at start up (wont pass state inspection). I assume it is the bulb except I think its related to problem 2.

2.My temp gauge wont move, even after driving 2 hours. I was thinking replace the cluster, but I don't want odometer discrepancy.

3. Car lacks power and acceleration when "on it". Vtec is hit or miss. Always get the vtec "grunt" but it doesn't always seem like the car has any power. There's a hack job on the down-pipe and a leak. It has a real cat-back exhaust.

I got zero codes when I scanned it. I've put roughly 800 miles on it since I bought it. Any advice or ideas are more than appreciated.

MAD_MIKE

CEL lamp is probably burnt out or removed.

Thermostat may have failed open. Park the car in spot, nose against wall/no wind, and see if the temp gauge goes up after idling for 5mins. Also check under the distributor for the temp gauge sensor, single wire thermo sensor.

Car lacking power could be related to the no temp reading. If there are no codes saved the memory fuse for the PCM may be missing or blown.

Check drivers under dash fuse panel, fuse #13 7.5A ECM fuse. And Passenger under dash fuse panel, fuse #13 7.5A ECM fuse.

potholesSUCK23

Thanks Mike. The CEL bulb was burnt out. The accord is showing an O2 bank 2 "down stream" code and a o2 bank 1 "upstream" code. Im slightly confused as there is only 1 bank in the exhaust of this particular engine. As for the test, when I turned the heat off of climate control and let the car sit, the temp moved slightly above the "C" on the gauge.

As for the lack of power and hesitation on acceleration, at quarter throttle or so it moves fine, anywhere above quarter to half it seems like someone is pulling my car in the opposite direction, but eventually gets going after a few second hesitation.

The thermostat could be in relation to the acceleration?

:Update: I have replaced the ignition wires, spark plugs, and installed a new exhaust system.

holmesnmanny

Replace the downpipe and fix the leak. Replace both the front and rear oxygen sensors. Clear the codes. See if the hesitation goes away.

MAD_MIKE

If the thermostat is stuck open, depending on your climate, the temp gauge will not show warm, and the engine never fully warms up. This can cause other running issues. I would replace the thermostat before any other work is done, and let the engine idle up to temp and again drive it around to help burn off any excess carbon build up from running cold/rich.

potholesSUCK23

thermostat and coolant replaced. Gets up to operating temp now, but still runs poorly. If I turn the "cabin air" on regardless of hot or cold, it runs better but not to full potential. If the air is off, it hesitates, misfires, sputters, etc. Its like riding a bucking bull if you will. New ignition wires. I am lost on this one for the most part. Never heard of climate control affecting drivability aside from turning on heat to lower engine temp haha

MAD_MIKE

IAC will raise the idle, if there is a rough running condition a slightly higher idle may clear up the rough running.

Did you ever fix the exhaust/O2sensors?

tim73

If you have access to an obd reader that provides live data. See what temp engine is running at, also see if engine goes into closed loop mode when warmed up. I wonder if ect sensor is plugged in/operating properly?

potholesSUCK23

Mike, it idles at 900rpm, smooth and sound. In neutral or with my clutch engaged I get a nice rev curve with no issues. Problem is under load. It'll sputter and hesitate, then I feel it jerk and start to run right after a few moments that vary in time. The exhaust/o2 are replaced.

Tim I'm sorry I don't have access to one.

potholesSUCK23

Checked spark plugs, they are running hot. Engine is definitely leaned out a bit. I am still baffled on how normal performance is only when air is on full blast and the car reaches roughly vtec engaging RPM. The car passed emission testing here in ohio and no codes. Any other suggestions? I'm about to just punt it to someone else

tim73

Its important you know what the engine temp is at(Not what the gauge is showing...what the actual temp the ECT is sending to the computer). If the ECT isnt seeing 190-205ish, the engine will never go into closed loop mode..and the O2 sensor will never be placed in service. The engine will just keep pouring fuel to it. On the flip side...if the computer thinks the engine is running hot...it will try leaning out the air fuel mixture.

potholesSUCK23

I understand that, but I don't have a source of checking the exact temp. I lashed the valves today. A couple exhaust valves were a little off but no noticeable difference on drivability.

Would you just suggest swapping out temp sensors to check for that issue or is there any other diagnostics I can do?

MAD_MIKE

Do you have the results of your emissions test? If so post them up.