jaxaccord

Ok, here goes... I'm hoping someone empathizes.
1994 2DR Accord EX AUTO f22b1

Went 3 hrs to get this as a 3rd vehicle for 85mi commute and have had nothing but nightmares since, but i know it is probably previous owner mistreatment, still love me some Honda, I'm just not a tech.
It made it around fine for several days and after replacing a caliper bracket bolt the guy forgot to put back in the caliper, I was so excited to get it running...and then it wouldn't start.

The problem now is that: It won't start. It cranks and cranks and cranks and cranks, but won't turn over. It even sounds like some exhaust is putting out the back. The bum I bought it from said he replaced the distributor. After extensive research the distributor is a Rich Porter HT01 (aftermarket) and is definitely new. It looks like it was a whole unit with coil, cap and rotor and everything. The weirdest thing is that the RPM gauge goes nuts in ignition switch position II, usually after trying to crank, and sometimes before trying to crank.
I can hear what I'm assuming is the relay/fuel pump kick on (humming) when I turn the key on.
The coil (I'm guessing) is good because I've taken the whole distributor off and on a couple times now and it sparks when tested (like crazy)...actually maybe a little too crazy? Because it somewhat seems to be in conjunction with the crazy tachometer needle activity and when the key is back to position II after trying to crank you can hear the coil sparking like crazy with the cap on, until you turn the key off. ...so maybe a new coil? but distributor was recently replaced. I was told by a Honda tech that aftermarket distributors are crap though. True? Are the OEM distributors Hitachi?

At first my manly intuition was telling me: new distributor (but it's all brand new) - now I'm thinking Main relay (but pump kicks on) or fuel pump possibly? Ignition Switch? EGR? Clogged fuel lines/ports? Plugs/Wires? I bought some cheapo plug tester off ebay and it seems as though the wires/plugs check out...

Had the battery tested and it's at 110%. Not battery or connection.

Please help!

Update: Put in new plugs and tested. All good. So plugs and wires, I guess, are good. Ignition coil still sparks spastically in key position II. Seems to be in conjunction with the RPM gauge freaking out as well...

Thanks in advance guys/gals!

BrotherAli

While I dont know the answer, I recommend not giving up the 4th/5th gen accords are some of the most reliable accords ever made IMO. Get her running good and im sure she will treat you well.

Dont forget to change the tranny fluid when you can:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ODvD2kPl-ZI

GhostAccord

RPM gauge is directly connected to the ignitor.

Do you have a multimeter or voltmeter, becuase you are going to have to troubleshoot that ignition/spark issue. It should not be sparking when the key is in the II position. Sounds like an ignition switch issue, depends on what the previous owner has done to the wiring. Hopefully it is all stock and not cut up.

nus_dogg

For some reason, I think of it as a ground problem when the tech or speedometer is jumping around. But it can be anything. If you can rent a fuel pressure gauge kit, do it and hook it up to the fuel rail to see how many PSI it's showing. Otherwise, hook the test light up to a injector connector and have someone crank the key over to see if the test light is blinking; what you're doing here is checking for injector pulses. Sometimes, you may have good fuel pressure but do you have injector pulses and vice versa?

And the test light is acting as a noid light. If all is good, last thing you need to check is compression.

doctorbee

Test each component of the ignition system according to the factory service manual. If it's in spec keep it and if it's not swap it out.

Look for the manual by Googling "Honda Accord CD7/CD9 (1994) Service Manual (45Mb PDF)"

doctorbee

it sounds like a bad ignition control module which is inside the dizzy. If you test everything and it's okay it might be the ECM.;

GhostAccord

Otherwise known as the ignitor. This component would also still be suspect even if everything checks out with a volt/multimeter. There is no concrete voltage/amperage test for an ICU/ignitor.

jaxaccord

Gentlemen,

Just wanted to follow up with an update. I ordered a used OEM (Hitachi) distributor from automotix.net for $130, free shipping. I replaced and it starts every time, right away. Not sure what specific part of the distributor it was, but it runs like a top now. Thank you all for the responses as they help out a novice like me. Needless to say I now have a much more intimate relationship with the ignition system on this car.

**Next up is a tranny drain and fill with Redline D4.

Thanks again