MONTCO Si

Here is some new info that i have found out of a book that I am reading on engine building theory...Please hang in with me this is a long one! But i suggest you read it all to fully understand and grasp the concept of how a ALIGN HONE WILL TRUELY BENEFIT YOUR BLOCK!!! This one goes out to the guys who think that align honing isnt really needed during the sleeving process, and say their process is the best, please take a look and think to yourself why you dont offer a align hone in your process?

"...preparation of the crankshaft bore can b e boiled down to one simple statement: align hone it. Don"t even bother to spend time checking it, just do it. The only way to finalize the diameter of any crank shaft bore is with a good hone, and dont let anyone talk you into accepting an old fashioned boring job to finish the crank bore. A boring bar wont do the same job!

Contrary to what is generally believed , you do not hone the inside of the crank housing because it is the best way to line up all of the individual bearing bores. At very high engine speeds the crankshaft is going to flex some and it won't matter much if the bores are slightly out of line. I recomemend that the bores be refinished with a hone for two reasons: proper honing procedures can be accurately reduce the inside of each bore to the minimum acceptable diameter and the hone will leave a very true and smooth finish on the bore wall. This means that the maximum bearing crush will be obtained when the bearing inserts are installed in the bores and the transfer of heat from the main bearings to the main webs in the block will be maximized!

Most racers understand that it is important to have as much crush as possible on the bearings, but i have talked to alot of guys who believe this is important to help retain the bearing in the bore. It is not! The crank never touches the bearings, and if the other considerations didnt enter the picture, you could just drop the bearings in place and forget them. While the engine is running, the force of combustion-acting through the pistons and rods-is really trying like hell to push the crank journals toward the bearings. How ever, the lubricatioin system is pumping oil into the space between the journals and the bearings. Like all liquids, this oil cannot be compressed. so it forms an incompressible hydraulic wedge between the two surfaces, holding them appart. This oil wedge makes the whole thing work, and it doesnt really matter at all how tightly the bearings are clamped into the bores. If, for some reason, this oil wedge goes away and the spinning crank journals rub against the bearings- even for just a few seconds-your going to start talking about crankshaft in past tense.

In reality, a tight bearing fit is necessary to increase the heat transfer from the backside of the bearing to the main web. Otto-cycle engines produce heat, and if we want an engine to deliver more of what we call power, the engine has to produce more heat. So we spend alot of time in the racing game trying to figure out how to produce as much heat as possible-at the right time-inside the chamber. But after the intense heat developed at the peak of combustion is used to push the piston down, there's still alot of "leftover heat" remaining in the cylinder. This residual heat is a problem. It's not hot enough that we can get much more useful work out of it-except with a turbocharger-and it causes all kinds of trouble.

Much of the leftover heat is pumped out of the exhaust port-where we can recover some work from it with a turbocharger- and alot of it is absorbed into the metals and the operating mechanism surrounding the sombustion chamber-primarily the cylinder heat, the cylinder block and the piston. The heat collected in the block and head is sponged away by the cooling system-and transferred back to the atmosphere through the radiator-but the piston is a real problem. The piston is exposed to intense combustion heat and it would melt very quickly if it was not cooled. The only way to cool the piston is to successfully transfer the heat through the rings to the cylinderwall or through the pin to the connecting rod-where it continues to move down to the rod bearings, through the rod bearings to the crankshaft, through the crankshaft to the main bearings, through the main bearings to the cylinder block main webs, and through the cylinder blockto the coolant system, and through the cooling system to the atmosphere.

If the residual heat isnt successfully drawn out of the engine, it will collect in a localized area, and one place where it can do alot of harm is at the bearings. There must be oil between the crank journals and the bearings or the engine isn't going to work, and mineral-based oils begin to vaporized at 300 degrees F. If the temperature at the bearings gets too high, the oil coming into the bearing will-in effect-melt away, allowing the oil wedge to break down and leading to bearing failure. It is, therefore, important to provide an efficient transfer of heat away from the bearings. When the inside diameter of the bearing bore is honed smooth and the bearing is clamped tightly into the bore, the area of contact between the backside of the bearing and the bore is increased. This will significantly increase the amount of heat transferred from the back of th bearing to the bore, and it will lower the operating temperature on the bearing face.

To gain the tightest fit and maximum crush on the bearings, i think the bearing bores should be be reduced to the smallest acceptable specification given by the bearing manufacturer. Usually the bearing manufacacturer will give a baseline spec for the bearing bore with a plus or minus tolerance of 0.0005-inch. It's always a good idea to make certain the machine shop knows what kind of bearings you'll be using, and-if necessary-provide them with the manufacturer's specs. Be certain to tell them you want the bore on the tight side-the base spec minus the tolerance-and if you are going to use studs to retain the caps-which I definitely recommend- you should send the studs to the shop along with the block so they can use the studs during the honing procedures"

Next time you get you pick a company to sleeve your block, DO NOT allow them to tell you that you will not benefit from a Align hone, thanks for your time and i hope you enjoyed the write up!
Zac


Modified by MONTCO Si at 5:05 AM 6/29/2005


Modified by MONTCO Si at 5:06 AM 6/29/2005

Rod.

nice info..i trust benson on my block


did you get arthritis in your hand from typin all that

stealthmode62

Through my observations, it seems everyone has a different way of doing things, and no two engine builders will completely agree on anything. I guess that's why people have opinions on how one builder could be "better" than the other.

Interesting read.

earl

This one goes out to the guys who think that align honing isnt really needed during the sleeving process,OK so I guess that means you are talking to me

align hone it. Don"t even bother to spend time checking it, just do it.No chance in hell I would ever do that. EVERYTHING needs to measured or checked.

an old fashioned boring job to finish the crank bore. A boring bar wont do the same job!Well that's true, it will actually give you a more accurate center line. I DON'T advocate using align BORING (except for repairing a spun main) but I will explain why it is more accurate. To accomplish an align BORE, you must grind the main cap and mill the bottom of the block. This makes the main tunnel too small of a diameter. You then bore it out using the ORIGINAL crank center line to set the crank back at its original height. I guess you could use a honing tool rather than a boring bar to do this but the results are the same.
Now align honing, in its original context, means running a hone thru the saddle without removing material from the main caps or block mating surface. This aligns the tunnel thru an averaging system. The center line of the bore is established by opening up certain main webs so the crank will spin again. The net results is the crank spins easily but it sets the bearing clearance all over the place.

the crankshaft is going to flex some and it won't matter much if the bores are slightly out of line The crank flexes in areas not held by the bearings. Cranks also warp. If you have more than .002" combined, you will be knocking journals into bearings...so it is EXTREMELY important that the bores are in align.

proper honing procedures can be accurately reduce the inside of each bore Not sure how honing something can REDUCE the inside of the bore..

the transfer of heat from the main bearings to the main webs in the block will be maximized!Just don't see this as an ongoing problem with high performance Hondas at this time. Great in theory but no practical benefits

The only way to cool the piston is to successfully transfer the heat through the rings to the cylinderwall or through the pin to the connecting rod-where it continues to move down to the rod bearings, through the rod bearings to the crankshaft, through the crankshaft to the main bearings, through the main bearings to the cylinder block main webs, and through the cylinder blockto the coolant system, and through the cooling system to the atmosphere. Well I think the fuel mixture has quite a bit to do with cooling the piston also. The proof to that is when using alcohol rather than race fuel, after a hard pass, the oil is really not that hot. Still the same friction in the crank and oiling system, fuel type is the only change.

To gain the tightest fit and maximum crush on the bearings, i think the bearing bores should be be reduced to the smallest acceptable specification given by the bearing manufacturer. Usually the bearing manufacacturer will give a baseline spec for the bearing bore with a plus or minus tolerance of 0.0005-inch.If you go with this theory, Helms calls for a .0009" bearing clearance. I personally think this is way too tight. It is more important to have a larger clearance to allow more oil in to cool the bearing surface and better support the crank.

Next time you get you pick a company to sleeve your block, DO NOT allow them to tell you that you will not benefit from a Align honeEven better, you may want to ask them how they can possibly sleeve their blocks and not have the main saddles move on them and therefore not need the expense of an align hone. Ask them to explain how the inside oil pump gear is aligned by the crank and what happens to your oil pump clearances when the crank centerline is moved but the oil pump is still in the same spot.

MONTCO Si

to me it pretty much sums up the facts of proper engine building and the physics of it, to me it seems as tho with out a proper align hone you are putting a missing link or a "weak link" into your block that you payed and worked so hard for thats why I stick with ERL!!! Yeah even tho Benson doesnt do a align hone or doesnt believe in align honing. But after reading this and properly understanding how a align hone benefits the engine in all aspects of performance why wouldnt u want to have it done on ur next block?

95GSRTT

Great another guy with an ERL hard on trying to talk down on Earl and Benson's. You guys really need to stop acting all high and mighty and learn that Earl and Benson owns you because they dont need to talk **** on others to prove their blocks are amazing.

MONTCO Si

OK so I guess that means you are talking to me
1.Earl, if i was talking about you i would of said your name without hesistating! we are all men here right?

No chance in hell I would ever do that. EVERYTHING needs to measured or checked.
2.Glad to see you practice good engine building habits before performing a engine build! I mean shouldnt we all?

Now align honing, in its original context, means running a hone thru the saddle without removing material from the main caps or block mating surface. This aligns the tunnel thru an averaging system. The center line of the bore is established by opening up certain main webs so the crank will spin again. The net results is the crank spins easily but it sets the bearing clearance all over the place.
3.NOW I wouldnt say they would be all over the place, but do all engines run the same exact oil clearances on every journal? if so i would like to see the specs on these handfull of engines. all that matters is that the crank spins easily and that the proper oil wedge is maintained right? and if the proper oil wedge is maintained then cooling shouldnt be much of a problem if you are running a clearance that works and allows the crank to spin freely

the crankshaft is going to flex some and it won't matter much if the bores are slightly out of line The crank flexes in areas not held by the bearings. Cranks also warp. If you have more than .002" combined, you will be knocking journals into bearings...so it is EXTREMELY important that the bores are in align.
4. I dont know if you noticed but the word "wont matter much" is used loosely here. Don't you just hate it when those damn cranks warp tho? of coarse they warp. I hope you would never put a crank that was warped in a block and thought you could get away with a align hone. I think thats where taking the proper measurements and good engine building habits comes into play? I believe the amount of flexing that the bore allows the crank to flex under high rpm's and stress would hardly cause a non-twisted style forged crank to actually warp while inside the engine

proper honing procedures can be accurately reduce the inside of each bore Not sure how honing something can REDUCE the inside of the bore..
5. I think this means using the proper sized bearing after the align hone process, MAXIMIZING bearing crush, allowing proper heat transfer? not exactly sure myself, i had to read over that one a couple of times.

the transfer of heat from the main bearings to the main webs in the block will be maximized!Just don't see this as an ongoing problem with high performance Hondas at this time. Great in theory but no practical benefits
6.This statement isnt aimed towards "high performance Hondas" but more towards the physics and fundamentals of engine building, lets see you run your "high performance Honda" for long periods of time and lets see how well your bearings transfer heat

The only way to cool the piston is to successfully transfer the heat through the rings to the cylinderwall or through the pin to the connecting rod-where it continues to move down to the rod bearings, through the rod bearings to the crankshaft, through the crankshaft to the main bearings, through the main bearings to the cylinder block main webs, and through the cylinder block to the coolant system, and through the cooling system to the atmosphere. Well I think the fuel mixture has quite a bit to do with cooling the piston also. The proof to that is when using alcohol rather than race fuel, after a hard pass, the oil is really not that hot. Still the same friction in the crank and oiling system, fuel type is the only change.
7. Once again the statement wasnt aimed towards making a "hard pass" down a quarter mile, but more of a general statement towards theory. I dont care how much fuel you throw at engine and if its tuned properly if its not machined and assembled properly from the start even with proper tuning, if the building process isnt done right your tuning will not do a damn thing for your engine

To gain the tightest fit and maximum crush on the bearings, i think the bearing bores should be be reduced to the smallest acceptable specification given by the bearing manufacturer. Usually the bearing manufacacturer will give a baseline spec for the bearing bore with a plus or minus tolerance of 0.0005-inch.If you go with this theory, Helms calls for a .0009" bearing clearance. I personally think this is way too tight. It is more important to have a larger clearance to allow more oil in to cool the bearing surface and better support the crank.
8.IF you would of read what i had written before i written the the write up you will notice that this is a book on "engine building theory" mostly using one specific engine for most examples. being the 0.0005-inch being a spec from the specific engine that they use for the example, not a spec from a Honda engine building theory or a helms manual .

Next time you get you pick a company to sleeve your block, DO NOT allow them to tell you that you will not benefit from a Align honeEven better, you may want to ask them how they can possibly sleeve their blocks and not have the main saddles move on them and therefore not need the expense of an align hone. Ask them to explain how the inside oil pump gear is aligned by the crank and what happens to your oil pump clearances when the crank centerline is moved but the oil pump is still in the same spot.
9. Actually i will ask them what actually happens to the oil pump clearances when the crank centerline is moved but the oil pump is in the same spot cause it seems to work damn good cause i havent had any problems with it!!!!

Well with all due respect earl I do admire your ability to stear people away from a truthful answer. lets try and use proper terminology that EVERY honda-tech member can easily understand without making them feel like their heads are going to explode after reading how a "proper" align hone is done.

Oh and by the way this write up that i had posted was out of Smokey Yunicks book on engine building theory mostly for the 350 small block. In which the theory can be easily used on 4 cylinder Hondas. So your going to tell me a man that has built more engines that won many different races and championships then you could dream of doesnt know what he is talking about? If your engine theories are so sucessful and are the proper way to do things then why dont you write a book and have it published? Oh thats write you havent accomplished much of anything at all!

When i ask many of the guys that i talk to and learn from every day who were pit crew chiefs for top fuel dragsters if they know of of Dan Benson "One of the top sleeve guys in the nation" a puzzled look comes across their face and they ask me "Dan WHO?". But when I ask them if they are familiar with Darton or ERL a look of positivity and confidense comes across their face. Isnt that funny. So much for a unbiased opinion in your case. Lets be honest EARL your trying to sell parts just like every other guy out there. But the way you do it you should be ashamed of yourself, the way you dont give your customer the full explination in terms they can understand. Try it then and lets see what everybody else has to say and what their FINAL OPINION is.

Zac


Modified by MONTCO Si at 8:33 AM 6/29/2005

stealthmode62

Oh this is going to be great.


The only way to prove your point is to disprove the other guys point. Crew chiefs, puzzled/positive/confident looks, and your opinion of how Earl sells parts aren't going to cut it. love, -Juror #5

Arturbo

If you sleeve a block I feel you should get an align hone. Its something I will always do no matter who sleeves it. People have told me I dont need to do it with XX company but I would do it anyway.

thanks for the write up. Everyone is entitled to their own opinion.

flip1199

Montco Si,

First let me state that my block is not sleeved by Benson it's sleeved by RS machine so u can't say i'm biased.

I've been a member of h-t for a few years now. I've seen sleeviing problems from just about every manufacturer except benson's. If align hone is such a neccessity, why is it that there hasn't been one instance where his blocks have failed?

Vsm Hatch

soo..... umm... bump??


umm..... sorry to not contribute to this post, but anymore positive informational debates on this subject? this thread seems real interesting, just still waiting for more information to better make my own conclusion and opinion on this subject.




oh yeah the sterotypical h-t crowd really should pull thier heads outta peeps asses... yeah some products are good, but technology always advances...

tomorrow there might be a better product, so the whole bashing on the non-bandwagon of the month thing really needs to end


just so that i don't get flamed too bad I'm actually thinking of sending my block to benson just because its cheaper that ERL and sooo far it seems to be able to handle the power goals I'm aiming for....

MONTCO Si

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Arturbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just because I say something doesnt mean its right, its my opinion. Same applies to earl, or anyone else with an opinion. Just becuase people have opinions doesnt mean you have to give them a . I can see this getting locked, but not by me.</TD></TR></TABLE>

wasnt saying you were right about anything just thanking you for acknowledging the fact that people entitled to opinions and just because my opinion doesnt go along with 95% of honda-tech doesnt mean im wrong

Arturbo

I am trying to be biased here.. The way I see it if xx company wants to post why they feel they are the best then so be it. If one company can do it then why not others right?

flip1199

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MONTCO Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">[B]


I'm sorry but your statement is totally irrelivent. Do you possibly think that everyone of Benson's customers are a owner of a Honda and are on Honda-Tech and post about their engine? I am certain they are not, nore has there ever been one instance where one of his blocks havent failed. For that matter I could say that i have never seen one of X brand sleeved blocks fail. You sir have just made a very uneducated statement, and in my eyes are digging a hole for Benson. So your going to tell me that some of the best Machinist/Engine builders have never built a engine that have failed??? Then why isnt Benson buying out or putting other sleeving companies out of business??? Come on lets start thinking before we make a statement guys...

ONCE AGAIN IF YOU HAVE NOTHING POSITIVE OR INFORMATIVE TO ADD TO THIS THREAD DO NOT POST AT ALL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>

I think you should go retake english 302; Reading comprehension and critical thinking. All i did was ask if it is so neccessary to align hone the block, then why haven't we seen any of the hundreds of people on this board run into problems? Your making it seem like in order for our sleeved blocks to last a long time we need them align honed. Now can u actually answer the questions instead posing another question or trying to make yourself look smater/better by bashing others intelligence.

93LSivic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D@nnY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

He didnt even build his motor (or install it) so ...no he cant answer any questions until he go reads a book or asks somone from the shop where he takes his car.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Let me start off by saying that I had no idea this thread was going to be started, nor do I have any plans on being part of the childish bullshit that many of you are taking part in.
If you have any questions you need answered feel free to ask. I built Zac's last motor. The next one I dont know, he has gained much knowledge over the past year or two (proud of ya Zac!) I have built everything from 450whp n/a small block v8's to 240whp all motor B's to 800+whp 2jz's........all without an ASE certification. Which by the way only requires basic reading skills to pass the test, and most that I know or have met I wouldnt allow to inflate my tires with air.

flip1199

I can care less about this childish bickering going on. I just want my question answered....I'm tryin to keep this informative as possible. so can u please inform my as to why blocks that havne't been align honed havne't failed? I seriously want to know. i'm not trying to say his blocks are the best. i just want all the information possible in order to make up my own opinion.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flip1199 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I think you should go retake english 302; Reading comprehension and critical thinking. All i did was ask if it is so neccessary to align hone the block, then why haven't we seen any of the hundreds of people on this board run into problems? Your making it seem like in order for our sleeved blocks to last a long time we need them align honed. Now can u actually answer the questions instead posing another question or trying to make yourself look smater/better by bashing others intelligence.</TD></TR></TABLE>

MONTCO Si

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flip1199 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so can u please inform my as to why blocks that havne't been align honed havne't failed? I seriously want to know. i'm not trying to say his blocks are the best. i just want all the information possible in order to make up my own opinion.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you dont get it at all, your saying that a block that has never been aligned hone by benson has never failed which i can bet is not true at all, and to say that a erl block that has been align honed has never failed is totally false also, you cant ask that question because its a false statement end of story.

Arturbo

Lets keep this on track and not attact anyone or any company personaly. If it does again, its getting locked..

flip1199

i guess u still dont get what i'm tryin to say.....let me try to make this as clear as possible.

The way u made this thread leads people to believe that if you DON'T get your block align honed when sleeved it won't last long. I'm asking is it just a luck of the draw for those members on this board who've had there blocks sleeved without align bore for 20k+miles without problems? Why haven't many people on here run into problems if it's a neccessity?

MONTCO Si

[QUOTE=flip1199 if you DON'T get your block align honed when sleeved it won't last long. I'm asking is it just a luck of the draw for those members on this board who've had there blocks sleeved without align bore for 20k+miles without problems? Why haven't many people on here run into problems if it's a neccessity? [/QUOTE]

To answer your question, NO you do not need to get your block align honed. Never did i say YOU NEED TO GET A ALIGN HONE. like pretty much everybody else has said on this thread. it comes down to PERSONAL OPINION. Im sorry if it made it seem like I was saying that if you are getting your block sleeved you must get your block align honed. NO YOU DO NOT. I was just clearly stating my opinion that if you are chosing to run a high horsepower, high rpm engine for race use it would be a good choice not to overlook a align hone even tho sometimes people dont believe you need it. To some people the it seems like they can not translate the theory of a 350 small block to one of our honda engines, to me its clear. In stone it may seem totally different to one person but to me i see it clearly.

flip1199

Thank you for clearing that up for me.

Sidenote.. just because the theory holds tru for a v8 chevy doesnt mean it hold tru for honda's. if it did we'd all be running around in supercharged carborated 4cyl...

DaveF

can someone please explain to me how exactly a crankcentline is moved up in the main journals after an alighn hone? because this seems rediculas. the alighn hone is done with the main caps on the block, so the block and the main caps are getting honed all at the same time.... than a larger bearing is used to attain the proper bearing clearances. wouldnt this leave the crank in the same spot as "stock" because the bearings are slightly larger??? or ??

Kwuaymaikrup

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can someone please explain to me how exactly a crankcentline is moved up in the main journals after an alighn hone? because this seems rediculas. the alighn hone is done with the main caps on the block, so the block and the main caps are getting honed all at the same time.... than a larger bearing is used to attain the proper bearing clearances. wouldnt this leave the crank in the same spot as "stock" because the bearings are slightly larger??? or ?? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly. I was wondering as well.

earl

If you read my answer, I never mentioned a company name or a person. It really saddens me that your company always has to make posts that attack me personally. If someone posts mis-information in a thread, I will answer with facts as I know them but not attack a person.

As to the source of your information, I knew it was copied from Smokey Yunick's book. I have ALL of his writings. He was a brilliant mind, a hero of mine and I was very sad when he passed away. One problem with trying to pass other peoples information off as your own is that you really don't understand the concepts. For one thing, a Chevy V-8 oil pump works completely different than a Honda. It does not rely on crank position. Some of Smokey's theory can be translated into Honda concepts but just remember we are dealing with DOHC motors and not push rod blocks.

I have never knocked the quality that ERL can bring to the plate, I just don't believe in their align bore theory and why that is necessary. That's it. You don't need to make it personal toward me (or Benson) to make yourself look better. In the end, we all strive for the same goal...a stronger block.

G"UNIT

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you read my answer, I never mentioned a company name or a person. It really saddens me that your company always has to make posts that attack me personally. If someone posts mis-information in a thread, I will answer with facts as I know them but not attack a person.

As to the source of your information, I knew it was copied from Smokey Yunick's book. I have ALL of his writings. He was a brilliant mind, a hero of mine and I was very sad when he passed away. One problem with trying to pass other peoples information off as your own is that you really don't understand the concepts. For one thing, a Chevy V-8 oil pump works completely different than a Honda. It does not rely on crank position. Some of Smokey's theory can be translated into Honda concepts but just remember we are dealing with DOHC motors and not push rod blocks.

I have never knocked the quality that ERL can bring to the plate, I just don't believe in their align bore theory and why that is necessary. That's it. You don't need to make it personal toward me (or Benson) to make yourself look better. In the end, we all strive for the same goal...a stronger block.</TD></TR></TABLE>


This is why earl and benson are sleeving my motor...


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can someone please explain to me how exactly a crankcentline is moved up in the main journals after an alighn hone? because this seems rediculas. the alighn hone is done with the main caps on the block, so the block and the main caps are getting honed all at the same time.... than a larger bearing is used to attain the proper bearing clearances. wouldnt this leave the crank in the same spot as "stock" because the bearings are slightly larger??? or ?? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I am wondering to