xtrac1

iTrader: (2)

RMOracer34

Dam, this is probably the second worst motor I have ever seen. Lol.

Caoboy

It can't be that bad, I mean there's no rod through the block or anything

Caoboy

Clutch kit ordered. OEM Exedy replacement model KHC05.

Still need to find a decent flywheel. I have one in the garage, same one that popped up on the 'recommended to buy with' list...LuK LFW225 I'll check if it mates up. Says it's for an Acura Integra 91-01.

rollinmyda

iTrader: (19)

I would use a GSR upper radiator hose due to the location of the upper coolant port. Em1 or GSR lower coolant hose should work.

hondur

iTrader: (1)

The crankshaft repair sleeve


I believe its called anaerobic sealant, it is special because it dries without the presence of air. If you want your rear seal to last I highly recommend properly installing a crankshaft repair sleeve.

ls joker

pics of said tiny little asian wife

1991civiclx13

subscribed

Caoboy

It doesn't say this in the factory service manual ...

But I have looked it up and understand what it does. I will inspect the crankshaft. If it is within specifications, wouldn't the sleeve not be necessary?

hondur

iTrader: (1)

The FSM is great but it isn't always perfect. It is over twenty years old, after all.

My understanding is that if you have a gouge like this, you should absolutely install the sleeve.


If there's no mark and you don't want the added insurance that your crankshaft will have another layer of protection and that your seal will have a perfect mating surface to prevent leaks, then don't worry about it.

StreetLethaleg6

ouch..... how much did you pay for the swap? if you don't mind me asking

ef'n_ray

Well damn, hope you didn't pay too much for that swap.. Glad it didn't discouraged you, so keep updates coming!

Brice.Hayden

iTrader: (15)

ACT stage 1 is a great clutch. Especially with their pressure plate. OEM replacement exedy gonna be ok.

Caoboy

Well then.... A little good a little bad. Update in a bit. Eating lunch.

Parts start showing up tomorrow.

Caoboy

I'm not at liberty to say.

Will do. Like Xtrac told me, now that I've made a build thread, I HAVE to finish it lol.

I figure if it's good enough for Honda, it's good enough for this motor. No plans to go ham on the clutch, I don't drag race, and this is still going to be a DD after all...

Caoboy

Harness:

96-98 Civic EX. Plugs are all there, none broken. I plugged everything into the engine and labeled them. Supposedly this makes the swap plug-n-play, or very close to it. Previous owner wired in/extended plugs that needed to be. I believe that was the IAB, the IAT, and the crank sensor. Research has been a bit hazy, I cannot find any good links on the swap. Most are dead, or people arguing back and forth about which harness to use, or people asking and getting told to search.



Starter looks to be in good shape.





Alternator, not so much. I'm hoping I can take this apart and clean it. If not, I'll have to replace it..




Distributor:



Cap is cracked, and the distributor is oily. I still need to take it apart and inspect it/buy a new cap/rotor. I have a new Ignition Coil laying around in case I need it.


Mounts...Innovative.


Apparently the rear mount bolt was loose, or gone, for a bit of time.



Brackets are good to go though... Maybe I'll grab some Yonaka mounts...people seem to like them, and they're cheap.

Radiator and fan look to be in decent shape.




Driveshafts...

Caoboy

Back over to the engine..

Crank pulley bolt came out easily enough. It helps when you have the pulley holder tool. Still need to get one of those torque multipliers...

Bolt looked to be in decent shape. Pulley looked in decent shape.

Here's the key...



And the keyway...




If you don't know, this is what a GSR engine looks like from the driver's side, underneath those covers. Something looks a bit off though...



Yes I found the bolt like this. The only thing keeping it in was the cover! The other one...hand tight!
Left was hanging out, right was hand tight. (this is partially so I remember which to put where)





That led to this...



Sensor was hitting the crank sprocket that it reads. I'm assuming this sensor is trash.

That's enough motor talk for today.

hondur

iTrader: (1)

the parts store should be able to test your alternator and starter for free, to make sure they're both good.

I used this stuff on my alternator and starter, it worked well.

Caoboy

Let's move on to the transmission!

This dirty son of a gun..



Has a broken torque mount...I believe I will need to get a new case.



The transmission oil was clean..



Degrease and scrubdown, rinse and repeat (RIP Turbohatch96y7!)...She cleaned up ok. Not perfect but I was hungry, the case needs replacing, and I wanted to get into the guts.

If you notice, I'm missing two bolts that hold the case together, above the VSS and the one to the right of it.




Let's pop that case off! There is a great write up to follow here: https://honda-tech.com/transmission-...orial-2443459/
Alternatively, you can follow the FSM.



I was told this is a B16 transmission with an unknown aftermarket LSD. So far, it's looking pretty good...I saw nothing drastic to be worried about. No broken bearings, no broken gear teeth, synchros are newer and the dogteeth on the gears don't look too bad.




So what LSD is it?




Some numbers here...QJ2 HAP...and it looks like UAIFE?

It's Quaife...I'm glad it's not BLOX or something like that lol.

I need to pop out the shafts and pull the diff out to check the other side for the model number. I believe it is a helical LSD based off of this thread:

https://honda-tech.com/transmission-...-pics-2912955/


Lastly, I did the ole count the teeth on the gears method, and came up with a 4.4 final drive, referenced this guide:http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/temp/Bgears.htm and counted the teeth on the 5/4th gears to discern this transmission is either an ITR or Del Sol VTEC transmission.

Given the lack of dual cone synchros, I believe this is the B16 Del Sol VTEC version.

Brice.Hayden

iTrader: (15)

Quaife lsd worth some monies.

Caoboy

As long as it works

Prudz_lude

iTrader: (1)

The bolt on the right is stretched. I would not be using that bolt again.

Also, looks like you know what you are doing. Some pretty nice parts were used from the look so of things. Just poorly assembled lol.

hondur

iTrader: (1)

If you pull the valvetrain off and pull the exhaust cam out, that'l keep all of the valves closed. Or you can spin the engine for each port. Then you should be able to get off a lot of that carbon with some oven cleaner (or another powerful cleaner) and some sort of brush. It should be less work than pulling the head off and getting it worked on.

On the other hand, if you do take the head off, you can inspect the cylinder walls, valves, etc way more easily and you can get the valve seats cut along with lots of other fun stuff like having it CNC'd or resurfaced to increase compression ratio.

JDM-EJ698

Damn. This is some work!!

.one lane

Damn! Did you know it came with a quaife or did you luck out? Super jelly