bluedlude

i just got my set of supertech valves in the mail today. i was taking some measurements so i can let my machinist know what clearance to shoot for when i seemed to find that the stems are undersized. my manual says the stems should be at a minimum .2156" but im getting measurements of .2146" on the new ones. i pulled out some old stock valves and they measure around .2156". is this to account for the difference in materials (stock alloy vs. stainless)? should i still have them use a 5.5mm reamer on the guides? btw, the are brand new bronze guides. any help is appreciated and this is an H22 head BTW

bluedlude

and so the plot thickens..... my exahaust valves were measuring .2146" and my intake valves are measuring .2156"???

bluedlude

FYI, i think i figured it out. they undersized the exhaust valves so you can still use a 5.5mm reamer and get the proper clearance. if you are on the low side of the reamer and make the intake guide ID to 5.51mm which is .2169", you get a clearance of 0.0013" and the recommended valve to guide clearance is 0.0010" - 0.0022"

on the exhaust guide if you use .2169" guide ID and .2146" stem OD you get 0.0023" clearance when the recommended is .0020" - .0031"

i guess i answered my own question . mods can delete this thread or lock it unless it may be of some use to someone

Armed Ferret

so what you're saying is supertechs are well within stock clearance guidelines, and can be used in stock guides with no issues.

yes?

bluedlude

if the guides are within the service limits 5.51-5.53mm then the clearance should be good. at 5.53mm the exhaust valve to guide clearance would be at the max. but yes.

Armed Ferret

sweet, thanks.

Rocket

Worn guides are not too common even in high mileage heads. Most have guide ID's are close to new spec. "Worn" guides are a sign saying

<FONT SIZE="5">REMOVE THE WORN SHITATT AND PUT ON SOME NEW ONES</FONT>

d15Beta

or drop a valve while driving.. and replace head? lol haha kidding!

Armed Ferret

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Master of the Universe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Worn guides are not too common even in high mileage heads. Most have guide ID's are close to new spec. "Worn" guides are a sign saying

<FONT SIZE="5">REMOVE THE WORN SHITATT AND PUT ON SOME NEW ONES</FONT></TD></TR></TABLE>

it never ceases to amaze me how few people understand such a basic concept. even if you were to beat them mercilessly as you repeated the above statement over and over, many would still cease to grasp the point.

good to know it's not very common--not that this will stop me from having the guides measured when CC gets it to work his magic.

d15Beta

true true.. ive seen and ive bin one of those.. "bah! theyre fine" lol and im thankful im no longer like that.. haha

i believe the real head porters, its standard practice for them to check the guides etc. this is why they require to send the valves, or a head with valves, or buy the valves from them.. CC/steve does it this way too?

you should be in good hands hehe

Rocket

It's pretty easy to check guide ID condition with a simple tool, right Combustion Contraption?

d15Beta

simple tool that diY porters dont have.. uhm like me hahaha

bluedlude

yeah i was going to pick me up one of those, but to just get a basic idea of what my machinist did im going to get some varying sizes of gauge pins. that auta do the trick

flyrod

do you run bronze guides at the same clearances as the stock iron ones?

bluedlude

hmm, good question, that kinda skipped my mind. that was my plan.

Combustion Contraption

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flyrod &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you run bronze guides at the same clearances as the stock iron ones?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can run them tighter if you want.

You can check guide ID condition with a valve that you plan to run, but it takes some experience to feel the difference between loose and OK. The problem with that method is that if the guide is bellmouthed/hourglassed you cant really tell.

TACO SUPREME

d15Beta

pretty much like adjusting lash/tappets, the feel/drag differs from one individual to another...


good stuff CC, can i get a free head? hahaha

bluedlude

well im bringing my head to the shop in the morning and im going to have him shoot for the low end of the specs, so hopefully his tooling is good and hes reamed bronze guides before. wish me luck, to supertech valves. these bitches are CLEAN!!

Combustion Contraption

The tighter you can (safely) run the v2g clearance, the longer your VJ SHOULD stay in better shape.

bluedlude

concentricity FTW!!

Rocket

DA VALVES ARE LIKE PISTONS - DA CLEARANCE IS BUILT IN TO DA VALVE.

DO NOT OVERTHINK.... ANALYSIS-PARALYSIS.

TO TIGHT AND YOU GONNA HAVE "MYSTERIOUS" PROBLEMS.


TIGHTER TOLERANCES DOES NOT MEAN TIGHTER CLEARANCES.

TACO SUPREMECY FOR DA WIN. BOURNE IDIOCY....

FO-SHIZZAY

zap

me, i dont want my v2g clearance to tight..

d15Beta

seen some, where the balbs are too tight (with new guides) you can barely spin them IF ur gona lap (not that its needed) just showing how tite it is..

then they wonder " Y i drop em BALBS " lol!!!

bluedlude

well he had the right tooling so im expecting to pick it up next friday. its was funny the look on his face and how disappointed he was when he thought i had REV valves. The box had a sticker that said HEVN and he glancingly thought it said REV . he was also mentioning that Ferrea split up? I guess thats where he gets all his valves, but has to find a new distributor cuz they split or something, anyway

bluedlude

aight, i got the head back and all is well. so now im cutting the seats and have some questions. First one is how do I measure the seat width? I can get an estimate with a set of calipers but thats no precision measurement. second, after I cut the 45 and place a valve in I can see light through the port. so that means the seat isnt fully concentric. there is a gap the thickness of a hair at most. but when i install a seat retainer and spring, even if im just using the inner spring stock spring thats enough pressure to seal up that tiny gap. any thoughts? im pretty sure i just need to spend a little more time on some of the seats but I dont know, im new to this maybe thats normal, but im doubting it.