Maciel

Hi guys im new to this forum and i was wondering if i can get some advise on a setup im trying to do. So i have a bone stock gsr integra and im planning on hopefully making 220 to the wheels after a tune with these parts:
integra type r pistons, arp head studs, arp rod bolts, ls rods, ls crank, brian crower stage 2 cams, edelbrock valvetrain kit (havent decided on valves yet), ecu, and of course bolt ons. Is there anything different i could go with that would be better? Can i use that valve kit with the cams i plan on getting?

DumpdEJ6

220whp is quite a lot, and while I don't know the specs on the Brian Crower cams, I do know that a lot of people are getting very good results with the Skunk2 Pro 2's while making that kind of power. I don't know enough about either cam profile to do a direct comparison, but just from anecdotal evidence I know the Pro 2's are capable of that.

I didn't see any fuel upgrades on the list, I think the stock 240cc injectors may be nearing their limit or exceeding it at the power levels you want. RDX injectors would be a good fit or something with a little more cc's available, along with a higher rated fuel pump for peace of mind.

I see you have already said you're getting a tune, that's good.

A 3" cheap ebay tubing intake with a proper velocity stack will make more power than any other kind of intake, and can be pieced together for usually less than $100.

Also something worth looking into since you'll have everything apart anyway is a thermal intake manifold gasket/throttle body gasket. I personally have them on my car and I can tell a difference in heat soak, if I can tell a difference then so can your intake charge.

What "bolt ons" were you considering?

DumpdEJ6

For reference, here's my build that made 199whp:

Bottom End:

B18B1 block bored to 81.5mm
NPR USDM ITR pistons with teflon coating
Shot-peened LS rods
Stock B18B1 crank
ARP rod bolts
ARP head studs
ACL Race main and rod bearings
ITR oil pump, ported and shimmed
ITR water pump
Gates Racing timing belt
Exedy 8.8lb flywheel w/ARP bolts
ACT 6-puck sprung clutch
Innovative mounts


Head:

B16 head, stock casting
OEM valve stems
OEM valves, 5 angle valve job
ITR dual valvesprings
Crower 402-A2 cams
Cometic head gasket
GE LS-VTEC kit
GE cam gears
Blox IM matched to TB w/thermal gasket
70mm Professional Products throttle body w/thermal gasket
3" short ram w/Blox velocity stack and filter
DSM 550cc injectors
Hytech rep header
Blox adjustable test pipe
2.5" SS Yonaka exhaust

ontariorider

220whp is no joke on a b series, esp a 1.8L with stock port head. Unless you have already purchased the cams like stated skunk2 pro series cams have proven to make great gains. Go with a good quality header, 3 inch exhaust. Im making 221 whp and went with rdx injectors and a walbro 255 for fuel and would suggest that as well..good luck with the build!

2LEM1

iTrader: (1)

This will be the biggest issue.

You simply can't flow enough air to make big numbers on stock ports.

People don't realize the power is made in the head, the bottom end has virtually no bearing on how strong a motor is, except for displacement and compression, but even those are minimal factors. Cams, headwork, intake, exhaust... these are all key factors in how an engine makes power.

Throwing big cams at stock ports is an exercise in futility, you're much better off with stock cams a good port, you'll see more power. Hell, I made 205whp on GSR cams with a good port and tune. Cams are totally overrated. In fact, I'd argue that your headwork is probably THE most important part of an all motor build.

DumpdEJ6

Good points by ontariorider and 2LEM1. Curious if ontariorider has a ported head? Unfortunately, you can make 200whp *fairly* simply, that extra 20whp is where I would argue you're hitting the point of diminishing returns on investment, e.g. you're spending an extra $1000 over a stock engine to hit 200whp, then $1500 to make that last 20whp.

An alternative would be nitrous. I haven't messed with it any as I have cast pistons, but the itch is getting to me. After doing extensive research it seems like even my build can take a small 50 shot reliably. Since you are in the middle of buying fuel related parts, it's not much more money to buy parts that support a 75-100 shot. (1000cc injectors, 340lph pump). Might be worth looking into, good used kits are usually under $500. Since I planned my build to specifically make 200whp, I am pretty much stuck there without redoing a lot of the build...unless I go the nitrous route. My advice is to err on the side of OVERbuilding the engine for the power goals you want, then when you get tired of 200whp like me, you can run a 100 shot without worrying...not like me, lol.

ontariorider

My head is a type r so slightly ported from the factory, then the machine shop cleaned it up and did the cams, vt, and valves so maybe it flows a touch better then a factory itr. I also have a 84.5mm 2.0L bottom end so that helps a bit over the 1.8L.

Ported skunk2 IM with a 70mm TB 3" intake with V stack, hytech big tube header, 3" thermal exhaust.

93eh2b18c1

My setup is the latest on the all motor dyno results. 82x89 Gs-r 230whp 151tq keep in mind the Torco fuel additive 101oct equivalent .

I had a local shop do some head work P&P cost about $600 worth every penny. If your worried about $ find a reputable local shop to do some head work. The head is where the powers at. Just like the others are saying. If I could go back I would have had 4piston due mine.

Maciel

so i forgot to mention a few things with the build i will be getting everything balanced at a machine shop and i will be getting my ls crank and head ported & polished and i will also be doing fuel upgrades. As for for bolt ons i already have a password jdm carbon fiber intake and i plan on getting the Yonaka 2.50 capback exhaust although i now a 3 would make more power but im also doing an exhaust setup so that i have as little drone as possible. The header i was either gonna do a 1320 RMF style header with the megaphone or a Skunk2 alpha series header with a blackworks 2.5 testpipe

Maciel

and also i will be doing mounts and stage 2 clutch

DumpdEJ6

The Password JDM "whale *****" intake looks cool as hell, but just know that is all it does. As I said before, a good 3" intake tube with a velocity stack will make more power than any other intake. Maybe the 4-5hp loss is worth is for the look of the PasswordJDM one, maybe it isn't, that's up to the car owner. Just know that the difference is there. Also, I highly recommend getting a quality clutch: Competition Clutch, Exedy, ACT, etc, not a no-name "Stage 2". I don't know the brand of the clutch you're getting, it might be a good one. Just be aware that "stages" are not important, only the torque capacity of the clutch. If it doesn't have a TORQUE capacity rating, it's probably junk.

scottcraft

Here's a solid 1.8 liter that can give you some ideas.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-mo...ra-im-3195232/

Maciel

Everytime i reply i dont really have time to add full details but i know a decent amount to get good quality parts i was thinking on doing competition clutch stage 2 220tq rating and some hasport street mounts as well . Basically what im trying to ask is what setup should i do with cams and valves because i was hearing you have to get the right valves to composate with something on the cam so that the cam doesnt hit the valve. Skunk2 pro 2's could be an option and just get skunk2 valves, springs, retainers and so on. But how high do you think i can safely rev up to with the setup im looking on doing?

DumpdEJ6

Depends on whether the bottom end is balanced as well. If so, 9k-10k? I don't know honestly. A good rule of thumb is not to rev any higher than necessary. For instance, when you dyno the car, if the power drops off at 8000 rpm, set the rev limiter to 8.5k and done. RPM is cool for bragging rights, but a solid torque curve wins races.

93eh2b18c1

Heres my setup:
230whp/153tq
Jdm Gs-r
82x89
Light p&p
Super tech valvetrain-flat valves
S2 pro2's degreed and set exh +3 int +1
S2 ultra 70mm tb
Rmf v1 rep header plm
2 1/2 no cat to vibrant muffler
440's precision injectors
blox 320 fp
Arias 12:5 82mm pistons
Eagle rods
Ls crank
Acl orbit oil pump
Block deck .020
S300
Using Torco fuel additive 101oct equivalent
mfacory lsd
cc stage two clutch
cc lightweight flywheel

You can see I stop making power at 8500 but it's safe to run it a little higher. Just doesn't make sense to go higher than your making power. Biggest key is to make sure you degree the cams correctly! Your decisions on parts but take what you will from my setup. I would go with the skunk2 valve train instead of what I did with the super-tech. And definitely the pro2's.

93eh2b18c1

check the zealautowerks.com compression calculator. For your setup I'd recommend using flat faced valves as well.

DumpdEJ6

That is one flat, fat torque curve, nice job!

93eh2b18c1

Thanks! I meant to send that to you a while back!

Entheogen

I've read some great advice yet i would go with b16 or Ctr pistons, skunk pro2 cams, and a tri yheader with a 2.5" collector. Head work will definitely help hit that 220 mark yet that depends on the amount of lift the cams have and will be ported based on those figures. I would search numerous builds and the results they've acheived which will educate you about your possible choices. Displacement, compression, lift, duration, and cfm of the cylinder head are the basic principles to focus on. If it were my build and you had a complete gsr block I would keep it stock and spend your time and money on the head And get it tuned on a Dyno. You may want to look into a h23a motor with a h2b adapter plate and selling your gsr motor. The torque compared to a 1.8 is intense and will out run most 2.0 high compression b series builds with the correct combination of parts. H23a $600, h2b kit $450-600, and bolt ons would be very close to your 220whp gsr build which is maxed out.

93eh2b18c1

In my experience...CTR pistons in a GS-R (p72) = bad idea I learned the hard way. In the pic you can see the lettering from the RS Machine CTR pistons hitting the head. Wondering what that compression was....

vtecmaster85

SlowSleeper did a build with ctr pistons tuned on e85 and made over 220 whp. Around the same power and torque as you made.

93eh2b18c1

That's pretty much irrelevant. Those are numbers. And we're talking reliably and longevity. Also that's over 13.1 cr with e85. And slowsleeper probably knew exactly how to make that build work where as this person is asking advice and he's getting my .02 on CTR pistons. evidence is right there in the pic. Exactly why I said in my experience as well. I'm sure if it didn't have the bubbled up lettering on top of the RS Machine pistons it wouldn't have hit the head in my case, but even then I don't think it would've lasted that long.

Maciel

[QUOTE=93eh2b18c1;51227647]


Heres my setup:
230whp/153tq
Jdm Gs-r
82x89
Light p&p
Super tech valvetrain-flat valves
S2 pro2's degreed and set exh +3 int +1
S2 ultra 70mm tb
Rmf v1 rep header plm
2 1/2 no cat to vibrant muffler
440's precision injectors
blox 320 fp
Arias 12:5 82mm pistons
Eagle rods
Ls crank
Acl orbit oil pump
Block deck .020
S300
Using Torco fuel additive 101oct equivalent
mfacory lsd
cc stage two clutch
cc lightweight flywheel

You can see I stop making power at 8500 but it's safe to run it a little higher. Just doesn't make sense to go higher than your making power. Biggest key is to make sure you degree the cams correctly! Your decisions on parts but take what you will from my setup. I would go with the skunk2 valve train instead of what I did with the super-tech. And definitely the pro2's.[/QUOTE
Another thing i forgot to mention is that i live in Colorado and i guess the air isnt that good i contacted a shop called Colorado Race Fab to get a price quote on them building my engine to make 220-250 and they said its a pretty high goal for colorado air but they said they could get there with the setup im doing but 13.1:0 compression and a 84mm sleeved block with big cams

93eh2b18c1

Higher up in elevation lowers your effective compression. On the zeal calculator you can add all that in.
Im at sea level so didn't really have to worry, mine is right around static. If you have a chance look that up it will bring a basic understanding to what the shop is saying. Go luck to you, looking forward to hearing how it all goes!

vtecmaster85

its relevant as you brought up ctr pistons not being ideal so to speak. i also had no issues with ctr pistons nor did a close friend of mine. neither had reliability issues.