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So, a breif background on my build. I built the engine in nov of 2013 with stock b16 cams, intake mani, and 4-1 header on chipped p75 ecu Crome map. I will post my current part list below. 4 months down the line, cylinder 3 ring took a dump and I started to burn major oil. I took apart the motor and I changed all rings but, kept the same Head Gasket. Car ran extremly well with some Sk2 tuner 1 cams. Compression test at time 235 across the board. 2 months later threw the stock B16 cams back in ran it for a year. Spring 2015 I decided to do some upgrades. I havent done a compression test since the prior year. That being said with the upgraded parts I didnt feel any noticeable gains. I figured the car will need to be tune due to the parts. I purchased neptune rtp, me and my cousin street tuned it. Car didnt feel like much at all.
Fast forward to now. Car was tuned By Chris Miller over here in Ny. Car made 153Whp and 118tq. (tq mayb)
As soon as I got home I did a compression test 190-210-220-205 (1-4). Oil change was done that morning. After test, I found coolant under Oil Cap. I seen small signs of it in the past.
Block: 95 Ls block
-81mm stock bore
-Ls rod Recondition and Shot peened
-acl bearing
-arp rod bolts
-Pr3 pistons
-Arp head Studs
Head: 99 b16a head
-head was rebuilt at Westchester Crank Shaft. valves, seals, seats, pressure tested. milled .01 or ten thousandths
-stock Ports
-omni dual Valve train
-Blox stage 2 cams
-buddy club gears in2+/ex-1
-blox v3 intake manifold
-bwr billet 68mm tb
-3" intake
Plm toda rep header
2 1/2" piping to Apexi Ws2 muffler.
Neptune Rtp
93 pump gas
vtec@5700
redline@8400
Motor has roughly 2500 miles since intial build.
I dont understand how the car made such low power. I'm waiting for the graph so i can post.
What #'s were u expecting?
Can't rlly bash #'s when u think u have a blown head gasket. Although a dyno is the last but most important thing u do, it's suppose to be done when everything is in near perfect mechanical working order.
Change your head gasket, + is u got arp's so swap and re torque and then repay for something u should done last. I'm guessing u were probably losing to engines/cars that in other circumstances were winning against so u got a tune found out numbers were low n then decided to find root cause.
pr3 pistons give a pretty darn high compression to be running b16 cams without a lot of timing pulled. I would do a leakdown test before u pull It apart u may have ring damage. good news is that u are still 81mm so u can always go 81.5 no probs
pr3 pistons give a pretty darn high compression to be running b16 cams without a lot of timing pulled. I would do a leakdown test before u pull It apart u may have ring damage. good news is that u are still 81mm so u can always go 81.5 no probs
+1 if you dont have a leak down tester, then invest in one and perform a leak down test. this will answer alot of questions for you and take out most of the guessing and possible work not required.
What #'s were u expecting?
Can't rlly bash #'s when u think u have a blown head gasket. Although a dyno is the last but most important thing u do, it's suppose to be done when everything is in near perfect mechanical working order.
Change your head gasket, + is u got arp's so swap and re torque and then repay for something u should done last. I'm guessing u were probably losing to engines/cars that in other circumstances were winning against so u got a tune found out numbers were low n then decided to find root cause.
I havent racing anyone with my car since i built the motor. I barely drive the car as is. With less than 2500 miles in 2 years. I figured the motor was fine and just needed a tune due to the upgraded parts.
Other than that, thank you for the input everybody. I will go with a leakdown test to pin point the problem.
pr3 pistons give a pretty darn high compression to be running b16 cams without a lot of timing pulled. I would do a leakdown test before u pull It apart u may have ring damage. good news is that u are still 81mm so u can always go 81.5 no probs
I used the b16 cams in the very begining. Now im currently running blox stage 2 cams. The fact that im still 81mm, going 81.5 you're reffering to getting larger pistons/rings and a bore, correct?
Did Chris have anything to say? He's tuned a number of cars.......
A dyno graph would be helpful.
I was hoping he would've given me useful info instead of saying "it's average power" and "do a 75 shot" lol
Said he's gonna email me the graphs tonight
Don't bother with a leakdown test at this point. You mentioned that you RE-USED a headgasket... this is an absolute NO-NO, so the first thing you need to do is remove the cylinder head, clean it, make sure it is flat, make sure the block surface is clean and flat, install a new OE Honda head gasket or Cometic head gasket, properly torque down your ARP head studs, reinstall your cams, do a proper valve adjustment and then do a compression test. If the results are within 10-15 psi of each other (from highest to lowest), and the car isn't overheating... set your ignition timing and go back to the dyno. You should be able to improve on the previous dyno number.
Don't bother with a leakdown test at this point. You mentioned that you RE-USED a headgasket... this is an absolute NO-NO, so the first thing you need to do is remove the cylinder head, clean it, make sure it is flat, make sure the block surface is clean and flat, install a new OE Honda head gasket or Cometic head gasket, properly torque down your ARP head studs, reinstall your cams, do a proper valve adjustment and then do a compression test. If the results are within 10-15 psi of each other (from highest to lowest), and the car isn't overheating... set your ignition timing and go back to the dyno. You should be able to improve on the previous dyno number.
Good luck.
I knew reusing the old headgasket was the incorrect thing to do. My car never overheated. Just went through antifreeze like a ****. I'm definitly going to chase the HG but still gonna do the leakdown to make sure nothing else is fried since im taking it apart.
I'm definitly going to chase the HG but still gonna do the leakdown to make sure nothing else is fried since im taking it apart.
this is exactly what i would do. you never know you may find another issue that you can fix while the head is off but you would be super pissed off if you put a new hg in there just to have to take it apart again. its kinda like the baseline for how effective your fix is. also, any chance of head lift? stretched bolts?
this is exactly what i would do. you never know you may find another issue that you can fix while the head is off but you would be super pissed off if you put a new hg in there just to have to take it apart again. its kinda like the baseline for how effective your fix is. also, any chance of head lift? stretched bolts?
I'm using arp head studs. I believe they're torqued to 80 or 85ft lb
Hello, red lines are from a lsvtec running 11.5:1 CR, stock cast iron exhaust manifold, stock intake and 2.25" exhaust. Lower red line is for WHP, which is around 167WHP. If you need help with the tune or something, email me or send me a PM.
Lol so u going through antifreeze, had low numbers on dyno and asking why low numbers lol. I can't believe your tuner ran it like that. Sorry for being so blunt but how long did you run it till tune as well?
Hey guys. Been a while since I posted. I haven't taken the car back to the dyno. Since then, I have done some maintenance to the car. I don't drive the car much, probably did about 200 miles since March 2016 which was since the tune.
-I changed the headgasket. (last one looked fine. No signs of leakage)
-The problem with the antifreeze, and oil leaking from the camshaft seals was due to the pcv system. I installed a catch can and properly vented the block. Since then, no oil leaks and antifreeze issues.
-I've changed out the Muffler to a spoon n1. (flows 100x better than the ws2)
-I also degreed the cams. I've found a setting that Im much happier with. ( Car sounds better, Throttle response is better, and so is top end. I believe this was a major problem from before).To sum it up, it made a huge improvement. I used the settings that I used when I had the Sk2 tuner1 cams. ex0, in+2
-Install FPR and Gauge. car was at 41psi. I bumped it up to 47psi.
-compression is 215-220psi across the cylinders
-Also I have a new walbro 255 pump and rdx injectors to install.
03-09-2016, 09:44 AM
LsVtec Dyno.. Poor results
