benin360

OK...So i built a f23/h22 engine for my 89 crx SI..i have it running and driving
great with a base map right now. But my question is, where is my realistic redline? My tuner wants to know where i want it set. i know the f23 is around 65-6600ish. I've heard some people running to 7600 daily?!?!? and some say nothing over 7000. please let me know everyone's input

i have....

fully balanced bottom end
New OEM rod bolts
Balance shaft delete
backwards Rsx-S Pistons (im about 11:55.1 compression)
Stock h22a head NON type s
And of course f23 rods/crank

Rocket

What camshafts are you running? How many miles do your valve springs have?

benin360

stock h22a cams...about 65-70k miles

Rocket

Limit to stock redline (more accurately called fuel-cutoff limit) to be safe. You are prolly not making much power after that anyways.

There's always a risk of mechanical over-rev, e.g. shifting from 3rd to 2nd when you wanted to do 3rd to 4th.

benin360

the bottom end of the F23 i thought wont handle the rev limit of the h22 due to the R/S ratio??

Rocket

Good point.

Any F23 guys here.

benin360

i appreciate the fast responses tho

4g hatch

if everything is balanced and clearanced properly and you replaced the rod bolts i wouldnt worry about running the h22 redline,the ls blocks wasnt entended to rev past 7200 but with a little extra work they can take it safely as many have proved

DazeMS

why not just keep it at 7k-7200 as a happy medium? But in all honesty , it matters how the bottom is set up. 3-400 rpm will not make or break a motor anyway. Idiot before me, had his ecu rev limit chipped to 9k( which was more like 9500) on a STOCK high mileage b18c1. rev cut is 8200rpm. It lasted for quite some time (a year)until he burnt a valve and caused excessive bearing wear and rocker pad wear. which destroyed that motor. lol

honda_12V

iTrader: (2)

Hello,

Am running a similar setup, just with forged internals and not oem.

Right now am still on my roadage, but car is happy with more fuel and less ignition timing compared to a h22, comp is 9.8:1 hoping to turbo later.

It is true that the Rod stroke ratio of the G23 wont allow it to rev like a H22. I had a h22 before a type S motor which i was reving till 7800 all day long with no issues.

In my opinion a solid red line for the g23 is 7500, but making sure that the motor was build to required clearances and the oil pump is providing lubrication at those revs. Also you would want good valve-train and cams, am running supertech double springs with crower cams which redline at 8000-8500 ( I know there are better cams that crower out there, but i prefer them over the type s cams, as i know there centerline and can line them up with the crank perfectly.

For sure there is the point that no matter how high you go, u wont make power after your peak. Its best you take it to a dyno and figure out where she peaks, and set you fuel cut accordingly, which is exactly what i plan to do.

MY 2 cents,

Regards

benin360

awesome info guys. i will stick with around 7500 and go from there...very much appreciated

im sure the oil pump supply will do fine, i am getting 81psi while driving all the time, sometime goes down to 78 but that's OK. The PSI sound about right on your setup honda_12V?

honda_12V

iTrader: (2)

Hey,

PSI numbers sound perfect, honda on both H22 and F23 blocks asks for 50 psi when the engine is hot @ 80 degree C or 176 F. I see a temp of 90-95 degree C on normal road driving.

So if you are getting 81 it is very nice, what oil pump you are using? I see 75-84 psi on mine at 3500-4500 revs.

What oil are you using?

Regards

The Butcher

Dyno it and see where it stops making power.

Disco

Id like to see some pics.

gstrudler

The big concern with the f23 bottom end is the rods since they are narrower than most and have smaller diameter rod bolts with no aftermarket options. That being said, people have obviously been doing g23's for a while now and I don't think I've heard of anyone yet stretching or breaking a rod bolt. Personally I wouldn't take it past 7500rpm to be safe on a street motor; the stock h22 cams/head stop making power there anyway. You could search here for Pirate's build, he was running a g23 for a while; haven't seen him around lately though.

AllMtrRex

Crower offers/use to offer? a billet F23 option.

benin360

i have the stock f23 oil pump but did some home porting on the inside. Mobil ONE 5-30 all the way

gstrudler-----i agree with you 100%. ive looked for any failures on the rods. BUT, no one is mentioning what they are reeving to??????

Ya crower wants a left nut and 2 fingers for the dang things...I found out recently found "race Engineering" makes f23 rods with arp bolts....Anyone confirm with me on that??

honda_12V

iTrader: (2)

Yes,

Race engineering are selling rods with arp 2000 bolts for the f23 at 450 - 500$ a set.

I am using them, got perfect clearances on the rod bearings, checked them to oem rods much thicker but rod caps and piston pins fit in perfect. .

KMS said they can do a mod f23 oil pump for 220$ but never replied my email after the phone conversation. IRP - sell a TOGA high performance oil pump for F23

Will post pics:

Race eng rods with arais pistons









Regards

benin360

damn those rods are sexy is this your current progress or is your build complete?

honda_12V

iTrader: (2)

Hey

Those rods are "Race Eng" rods for F23 - which actually are made by MOLNAR. I had the machinist check the top and bottom end bore they were bang on.

Like i mentioned before.

We completed the engine, swapped it in - had a small gasket issue replaced the gasket and all looks good.

Car has run 1300 kms since the engine got swapped, all below 4000 rpm. Did all the oil changes and everything looks good for now.

Hope to start opening the taps as from the 3000 kms mark, hope to dyno it then.

Regards

98vtec

your rings were sealed a long time ago.

honda_12V

iTrader: (2)

98vtec

RINGS sealed could you explain please.

Regards

benin360

I think he ment seated..the rings will seat in 10-30ish miles...or Until you stop blowing smoke. When I did mine, my rings seated in minutes. How's it pull so far?

98vtec

sounds to me like you babied the engine like it was a piece of glass. build it, dyno tune it, drive it. If it breaks during break-in, it was going to break regardless. obviously you dont crank it up and take it to the street and beat the hell out of it. there is a process I like to use.

ring seal requires cylinder pressure which is load and RPM dependent. I want to be able to give the rings the optimum cylinder pressure for them to expand and allow the hone to do its job (given the hone was done properly).

bit off topic, but just wanted to throw it out there.

kingofbattle909

iTrader: (6)

How does one improperly hone an engine block?