Kompressorbengt

Hi!

I am looking for some advice. I am rebuilding my engine this winter and I have to make up my mind regarding which block I am going to run. I will buy new rods, high comp pistons, new bearings in any case, so the cost does not matter.

Will there be a remarkable torque-difference in b20z1 vs b18c6 blocks?

Which of these blocks would you run? And why?

The setup will be:
Ported B18c6 head
B20z1 block - or b18c6 block
Edelbrock Victor X intake manifold
Skunk2 65mm throttle body
Polished Skunk2 valves
Supertech valvetrain
Buddyclub Spec IV cams
CP Pistons 12:5:1
Brian Crower LW rods
ARP bolts
ARP Head studs

F22Master

If both motors are built with roughly the same specs (compression, cams, intake, exhaust) then the % difference in dispacement will ve close to the % difference in torque.

So if you increase displacement by 15%, then toque will increase by roughly 15%. And a 15% increase in torque is VERY noticable when we are talking about motors that make less than 150ft-lbs

Kompressorbengt

Okay, but do you know any pro's and cons? The 84mm bore must increae the wear of the block compared to the 81mm. The R/S-ratio will be better though, since the bore in the b20z1 will be closer to the stroke than the b18, although the b18 should be able to rev more, which also increases the power output slightly.

JKaze

B18C6 with sleeves and bigger bore. Nominally taller deck, OE main girdle and internal VTEC oil passage.

vtecmaster85

If the b18c block is stock sleeves vs the b20, the b20 will generally produce more power and torque.

Kompressorbengt

I went ahead and bought the b20 block since I got it for ~ 260 bucks including new ARP head studs. What rods would you recommend? I had planned to buy Brian Crower LW rods but it doesn't seem like a good choice after doing some reading.

vtecmaster85

I don't see why they wouldn't be. They worked great on my build. Others as Well.

PyroProblem

Eagles are good and cheap.
Good choice on the b20 block. More torque everywhere.

PyroProblem

And the r/s ratio difference is so minimal, it shouldn't really be a factor IMO.
In fact little extra stroke could be a good thing. More torque sooner in the rpm range, and you'll see peak tq sooner (typically). Less RPM is also better for longevity.

Kompressorbengt

Okay, thanks for the advice on the rods.

What cams would you guys recommend for my build? I bought the car with the BC's but I haven't read anything good about them Everyone seems to be recommending Rockets and Skunk2 pro2 cams. Are they worth swappin to?

What maximum compression would you recommend with the stock sleeves in the b20? B20s seem to have a tendency to crack. (not N/A?)

93egSLEEPER

The BC 4's would work well on that motor. They are a pretty consistent cam in 2L builds it seems like IMO. They will need to be played with on the dyno to find the sweet spot though. 2LEM1 makes over 230whp on them w/ his build.

The Pro 2's work well in almost everything and have proven to make GREAT power on a variety of setups. They shine on higher comp 2L builds over and over again.

Kompressorbengt

Okey, thank you for the info. I will probably stay with the Buddyclubs and maybe swap them out in the future.

vtecmaster85

What header are you using?

Kompressorbengt

As of right now, I have a DC sports cheramic 4-2-1 header. Im replacing it though, but Im not sure with which one. I've been looking at Private Label manufacturing "power driven TA"-header. Are they any good for my setup?

vtecmaster85

Not sure what that is. But the toda replica header and the smsp big tube should work. Those Two have proven to do Well.

vtecmaster85

Right on man��