How to: EVAP Removal (step by step Pics and Info)
02-16-2004, 06:05 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
How to: EVAP Removal (step by step Pics and Info)
I removed my EVAP system this past weekend so heres a little how-to as I have had some requests and havent really seen any other how-to posts. This is related to my 2000 ITR, I believe all ITRs are the same.
The purpose of this system is to "minimize the amount of fuel vapor escaping to the astmosphere" (direct from Helms). It uses a vacuum process to vent these gases into the IM and through a vent pipe. Please reseach this system before removing it. I had a Helms handy (diagrams and info in Section 11, pages 10 and 146-147 of the 1998 Service Manual) and I got a good understanding of how the system works and what each piece is for. Im not sure what circumstances it should or shouldnt be removed but I know it is not needed in my set up as I am running a stand alone.
Pros: The result I found after removing the system via the butt dyno, with no other changes, was slightly crisper throttle response (less vacuum interference), and interestingly enough, the sound of the motor seemed to have an overall more healthy growl to it. :shrugs:
Cons: less friendly emissions.
You will want to remove your intake arm in order to access the EVAP canisters. The pieces you are removing are the two black canisters located on the firewall between the battery and the IM, and associated hoses.
CANISTERS
The top of the large main canister has 3 hoses connected, and 1 electrical connector that controls the VENT SHUT VALVE. As seen in the picture below, there are 2 large black hoses, and another small hose (where the screw is, hose already removed). Disconnect these hoses, and the electrical connector towards the back left of the top of the canister (hidden in this pic).
TOP OF MAIN CANISTER
The small hose leads to the PURGE VALVE thats located on the firewall, directly behind the IM. It looks like the picture below. From that valve, there is another electrical connector, and another hose that leads to the IM. Remove connector and hose to IM, and remove valve. You can just remove the entire bracket as its no longer needed. Then depending on your set up, you need to plug the connection on the IM. My temporary plug is shown in the second pic below.
PURGE VALVE
The plugged hose on IM (left), I just used a large bolt and washer and screwed it into the hose.
The large hose on the canister(with the hose clamp still installed) in the pic below leads to the FUEL VENT PIPE. This pipe leads all the way back to the fuel tank to another valve which we do not need to worry about. Disconnect this hose from the canister, and leave it where it sits. YOU WILL BE REROUTING THIS HOSE LATER.
FUEL VENT PIPE hose
The other large hose on top of the canister, leads to the left to the smaller black canister. Remove that from the main canister. From the small canister, this hose leads down to the bottom of the engine bay, to the PLASTIC VENT PIPE that exits under the car. This pipe has 2 hose connections on it from the system, both can be removed and leave the plastic vent pipe installed as you need it later. The VENT PIPE is pictured below, taken from under the car:
At this point you can remove both canisters, and any associated brackets. Might need to twist them a little to access the bolt(s) that hold them on the car. Its cake though.
The only thing left now is the FUEL VENT PIPE which we left hanging at the beginning. Now you need to route this hose to the plastic vent pipe that exits at the bottom of the engine bay (or else you will smell the gas fumes in the engine bay and passenger compartment). All I did was take a left over hose that I removed from the system, stuck it inside the bigger vent hose, and routed that down to the plastic vent pipe. Hose with yellow zip tie below:
The plastic vent pipe will still have 1 hose connection left open from a hose we removed previously, and I just taped that up to prevent fumes from coming back into the engine bay via that hole.
Now you are left with 2 electrical connectors from the PURGE valve and VENT SHUT valves. Do what you like with these, I just labeled them and zip tied them up out of the way.
That should cover it. Whole job shouldnt take you more than about a half hour. Again, I would have never attempted this without the Helms. Go drink your favorite beverage for a job well done.
The purpose of this system is to "minimize the amount of fuel vapor escaping to the astmosphere" (direct from Helms). It uses a vacuum process to vent these gases into the IM and through a vent pipe. Please reseach this system before removing it. I had a Helms handy (diagrams and info in Section 11, pages 10 and 146-147 of the 1998 Service Manual) and I got a good understanding of how the system works and what each piece is for. Im not sure what circumstances it should or shouldnt be removed but I know it is not needed in my set up as I am running a stand alone.
Pros: The result I found after removing the system via the butt dyno, with no other changes, was slightly crisper throttle response (less vacuum interference), and interestingly enough, the sound of the motor seemed to have an overall more healthy growl to it. :shrugs:
Cons: less friendly emissions.
You will want to remove your intake arm in order to access the EVAP canisters. The pieces you are removing are the two black canisters located on the firewall between the battery and the IM, and associated hoses.
CANISTERS
The top of the large main canister has 3 hoses connected, and 1 electrical connector that controls the VENT SHUT VALVE. As seen in the picture below, there are 2 large black hoses, and another small hose (where the screw is, hose already removed). Disconnect these hoses, and the electrical connector towards the back left of the top of the canister (hidden in this pic).
TOP OF MAIN CANISTER
The small hose leads to the PURGE VALVE thats located on the firewall, directly behind the IM. It looks like the picture below. From that valve, there is another electrical connector, and another hose that leads to the IM. Remove connector and hose to IM, and remove valve. You can just remove the entire bracket as its no longer needed. Then depending on your set up, you need to plug the connection on the IM. My temporary plug is shown in the second pic below.
PURGE VALVE
The plugged hose on IM (left), I just used a large bolt and washer and screwed it into the hose.
The large hose on the canister(with the hose clamp still installed) in the pic below leads to the FUEL VENT PIPE. This pipe leads all the way back to the fuel tank to another valve which we do not need to worry about. Disconnect this hose from the canister, and leave it where it sits. YOU WILL BE REROUTING THIS HOSE LATER.
FUEL VENT PIPE hose
The other large hose on top of the canister, leads to the left to the smaller black canister. Remove that from the main canister. From the small canister, this hose leads down to the bottom of the engine bay, to the PLASTIC VENT PIPE that exits under the car. This pipe has 2 hose connections on it from the system, both can be removed and leave the plastic vent pipe installed as you need it later. The VENT PIPE is pictured below, taken from under the car:
At this point you can remove both canisters, and any associated brackets. Might need to twist them a little to access the bolt(s) that hold them on the car. Its cake though.
The only thing left now is the FUEL VENT PIPE which we left hanging at the beginning. Now you need to route this hose to the plastic vent pipe that exits at the bottom of the engine bay (or else you will smell the gas fumes in the engine bay and passenger compartment). All I did was take a left over hose that I removed from the system, stuck it inside the bigger vent hose, and routed that down to the plastic vent pipe. Hose with yellow zip tie below:
The plastic vent pipe will still have 1 hose connection left open from a hose we removed previously, and I just taped that up to prevent fumes from coming back into the engine bay via that hole.
Now you are left with 2 electrical connectors from the PURGE valve and VENT SHUT valves. Do what you like with these, I just labeled them and zip tied them up out of the way.
That should cover it. Whole job shouldnt take you more than about a half hour. Again, I would have never attempted this without the Helms. Go drink your favorite beverage for a job well done.
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02-16-2004, 06:17 PM
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Re: How to: EVAP Removal (RTW DC2)
so the vehicle inspections in ny don't look into your emissions equipment. by the way, thanks for the extra pollution. i shall name the ozone hole after you 
02-16-2004, 06:18 PM
#3
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Thread Starter
be my guest.
actually you can put me in line after all the guys running test pipes. If you are that worried about emissions you shouldnt be driving a car or anything fuel powered.
actually you can put me in line after all the guys running test pipes. If you are that worried about emissions you shouldnt be driving a car or anything fuel powered.
02-16-2004, 06:25 PM
#4
Honda-Tech Member
Re: How to: EVAP Removal (magic hat #9)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by magic hat #9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so the vehicle inspections in ny don't look into your emissions equipment. by the way, thanks for the extra pollution. i shall name the ozone hole after you </TD></TR></TABLE>
go hug a tree polesmoker
</TD></TR></TABLE>go hug a tree polesmoker
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02-17-2004, 04:34 AM
#10
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Re: How to: EVAP Removal (Darkteg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Darkteg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> 
any cell codes?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Im running a standalone, there are no CEL codes. I would imagine if you are using a stock ECU, you will probably get CEL codes.
any cell codes?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Im running a standalone, there are no CEL codes. I would imagine if you are using a stock ECU, you will probably get CEL codes.
02-17-2004, 04:44 AM
#11
Honda-Tech Member
Re: How to: EVAP Removal (RTW DC2)
yea if you run a stock ECU i think it throws evap codes. DC2R714 threw those once i believe when he was running the stock ecu for some ungodly known reason .
02-17-2004, 04:45 AM
#12
Re: How to: EVAP Removal (RTW DC2)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Im running a standalone, there are no CEL codes. I would imagine if you are using a stock ECU, you will probably get CEL codes. </TD></TR></TABLE>
That's not a stock IM is it?
Im running a standalone, there are no CEL codes. I would imagine if you are using a stock ECU, you will probably get CEL codes. </TD></TR></TABLE>
That's not a stock IM is it?
02-17-2004, 04:50 AM
#13
Re: How to: EVAP Removal (RTW DC2)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Pros: The result I found after removing the system via the butt dyno, with no other changes, was slightly crisper throttle response (less vacuum interference), and interestingly enough, the sound of the motor seemed to have an overall more healthy growl to it. :shrugs:
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Keep in mind, that the selenoid would have never been open with the AEM EMS, as it doesn't send the signal to it...so there would have been no "vacuum interference" anyway. And a stock ECU only sucks in air through the charcoal canister during startup, so it's not a performance issue either.
The only pro of doing this, as far as i can tell, is to save some weight.
Matt
Pros: The result I found after removing the system via the butt dyno, with no other changes, was slightly crisper throttle response (less vacuum interference), and interestingly enough, the sound of the motor seemed to have an overall more healthy growl to it. :shrugs:
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Keep in mind, that the selenoid would have never been open with the AEM EMS, as it doesn't send the signal to it...so there would have been no "vacuum interference" anyway. And a stock ECU only sucks in air through the charcoal canister during startup, so it's not a performance issue either.
The only pro of doing this, as far as i can tell, is to save some weight.
Matt
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02-17-2004, 04:53 AM
#14
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Thread Starter
Re: How to: EVAP Removal (El Pollo Diablo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Keep in mind, that the selenoid would have never been open with the AEM EMS, as it doesn't send the signal to it...so there would have been no "vacuum interference" anyway. And a stock ECU only sucks in air through the charcoal canister during startup, so it's not a performance issue either.
The only pro of doing this, as far as i can tell, is to save some weight.
Matt</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you sure about that or jus assuming? if so its good to know. All I knew is that the EMS was either not using it or not using it correctly so I could remove it. I guess the throttle response and sound of the motor was all in my head. I estimate the system weighs about 5-6lbs.
and no its not a stock IM.
Keep in mind, that the selenoid would have never been open with the AEM EMS, as it doesn't send the signal to it...so there would have been no "vacuum interference" anyway. And a stock ECU only sucks in air through the charcoal canister during startup, so it's not a performance issue either.
The only pro of doing this, as far as i can tell, is to save some weight.
Matt</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you sure about that or jus assuming? if so its good to know. All I knew is that the EMS was either not using it or not using it correctly so I could remove it. I guess the throttle response and sound of the motor was all in my head. I estimate the system weighs about 5-6lbs.
and no its not a stock IM.
02-17-2004, 05:47 AM
#16
Re: How to: EVAP Removal (RTW DC2)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Are you sure about that or just assuming </TD></TR></TABLE>
If I was assuming I would have said so.
Are you sure about that or just assuming </TD></TR></TABLE>
If I was assuming I would have said so.
02-17-2004, 05:48 AM
#17
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: How to: EVAP Removal (El Pollo Diablo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If I was assuming I would have said so.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was just asking, not assuming you were assuming
If I was assuming I would have said so.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was just asking, not assuming you were assuming
02-17-2004, 05:52 AM
#18
Re: How to: EVAP Removal (RTW DC2)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I was just asking, not assuming you were assuming </TD></TR></TABLE>
I assumed you were assuming that I was assuming...
If you at the pinout diagram for j00r EMS (30-1010 I believe) j00'll see that pins A3, A4, and A6 (Evap control outputs) are available as outputs on the EMS...so technically you could make the EMS control the Evap system...
I was just asking, not assuming you were assuming
</TD></TR></TABLE>I assumed you were assuming that I was assuming...
If you at the pinout diagram for j00r EMS (30-1010 I believe) j00'll see that pins A3, A4, and A6 (Evap control outputs) are available as outputs on the EMS...so technically you could make the EMS control the Evap system...
02-17-2004, 09:43 AM
#20
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Re: How to: EVAP Removal (itr206)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr206 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea if you run a stock ECU i think it throws evap codes. DC2R714 threw those once i believe when he was running the stock ecu for some ungodly known reason . </TD></TR></TABLE>
i have a stock ECU and mine does not throw an evap CEL without the system..
but my testpipe does make my cel go off for the secondary o2..
and i could care less about my emissions.. there are far worse polluters than my one car that is rarely driven..
i have a stock ECU and mine does not throw an evap CEL without the system..
but my testpipe does make my cel go off for the secondary o2..
and i could care less about my emissions.. there are far worse polluters than my one car that is rarely driven..
02-17-2004, 09:53 AM
#21
Honda-Tech Member
Re: How to: EVAP Removal (mstewar)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mstewar »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
and i could care less about my emissions.. there are far worse polluters than my one car that is rarely driven..</TD></TR></TABLE>
amen to that brotha, god wont hate me that much , i dont drive the car enuff.
Pete who is still thinking about how to get past emissions for nexyt year
and i could care less about my emissions.. there are far worse polluters than my one car that is rarely driven..</TD></TR></TABLE>
amen to that brotha, god wont hate me that much , i dont drive the car enuff.
Pete who is still thinking about how to get past emissions for nexyt year
02-17-2004, 09:55 AM
#22
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Thread Starter
I dont have emissions in upstate NY so its not a big deal. Eventually all of NYS is going to have emissions testing and when that time comes there are ways around it. I wouldnt be the first to find a loophole in the system.
02-17-2004, 10:13 AM
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Re: How to: EVAP Removal (BigLoadChoakHard)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BigLoadChoakHard »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its against the law to tamper with emmisions controls in ny state</TD></TR></TABLE>
and in most if not all states..
but no test + no looky = i took that junk out!
and in most if not all states..
but no test + no looky = i took that junk out!