nightrider

Is this the correct part from Energy to replace the front compliance bushing?
http://www.energysuspension.com/sear...partNumSearch=

Honestly, the 16.3105 energy p/n above seems like it replaces all the front lower control arm bushings including the compliance.

Honda OEM lists the part as 51396 SR0 A02 and 51395 SR0 A02, but I do not want the entire bracket, just the bushing. I'd love to find a Honda OEM bushing, but if all else doesn't work, I'll just buy a poly set. Will I notice that much of a difference with a poly set?

Sorry I'm in the ITR forum, but I get NO help in any other forum. =(
I have an opportunity to buy a OE replacement compliance bracket + bushing, but still don't know if I want poly.

srt4mike

. . .

nightrider

As a former ITR owner, I learned a lot from this forum.

Lately, I seem to get nowhere nowadays with any post asking for assistance.
I think this is a relevant post, however, because the parts are interchangable for the most parts between the Civic and Integra. Yes, this compliance bushing is interchangable. So for anyone replacing their bushings, this may be helpful for both ITR owners and Civic owners.

For example, I know that the trailing arm bushing isn't listed on the Honda parts catalog, but there is a part # for just the bushing. A lot of people have purchased the entire trailing arm thinking they couldn't get the bushing alone. This would apply for ITR owners AND Civic owners.

Thanks for nothing.
Mods, delete if need be.

nightrider

I really hate the fact that all the original members that used to assist me are now gone or stay silent because there is no technical aspect of this forum anymore!!

phunhaus

You can't get just the rubber inside the housing and if you could you probably wouldn't want to.

If you want something better than OE and not poly, PM pb16b about a rear compliance bushing from his company.

nightrider

thanks. they offer a front lower control arm bushing kit, which includes the compliance bushing but it's all poly, which i've decided not to use.

i think i'm just going to have to suck it up and buy new oem ones. thanks again.
once again, mods delete if need be.

migs

Big difference if you use an upgraded bronze bushing or hardened rubber bushing. I use the Hardrace bronze bushing and my gosh is there a gigantic difference.

omiehomie

can you please elab on where and how much it runs to get a hold of a set...?

Stinkycheezmonky

No need to lock this

Unfortunately, I also don't have anything to contribute in the way of information

nightrider

i happened to stumble upon kingmotorsports.com and see their mugen lineup of bushings. although EVERY other bushing for the front end is significantly more expensive than honda oem, the compliance bushing is CHEAPER than honda oem.
https://www.kingmotorsports.com/category.aspx?cat=37

list price for honda oem compliance bushings are 108.83/ea (76.18 @ majestic). king offers the set (2) for $121. i'm sticking with oem lower front arm + shock absorber bushings, and UCAs mainly due to reliabilitiy/longevity.

hope this thread was somewhat helpful for civic/intega folks.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

BTW: The Type-R has it's own compliance bushings. They are even cheaper than the soft Honda part. Cost a little more than the Mugen ones @ $65 each (AcuraOEMParts.com)...

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

51395-ST7-Z01
51396-ST7-Z01

Jimmy

iTrader: (5)

I hate to bump an old thread, but I'm going thru the same situation right now..

Do the front compliance bushings press in? I can get the whole bracket/bushing from honda for 80 a piece or just do the Mugen bushings, I already have the Mugen Rear trailing arm bushings installed..

Would love to see a write up on this

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

The Mugen rear trailing bushing is the same as the most current Honda one. Only difference is the Honda one cost $25 each instead of $80.

As for the front compliance bushing, no you cannot buy the rubber separately. Just like all the other bushings, the surround is an integral part of the bushing. The rubber is fused to it, not just pressed inside...

Jimmy

iTrader: (5)

Mugen bushings are stiffer and OE Honda

And

Yes you can..

http://www.kingmotorsports.com/p-261...-bushings.aspx

Jimmy

iTrader: (5)

*edit* they are ''supposed'' to be. Lol.

IN VTEC

iTrader: (3)

The compliance bushings are removed by using a 19mm socket to unthread the nut. Install the bushings, thread the nut by hand, install the LCA, set the car down then tighten the nut.

Jimmy

iTrader: (5)

Thank you for your input.. If you don't mind, why exactly do you sit the car down then tighten the nut?

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

If the control arms aren't at final ride height when you tighten and torque the bolts, the bushings will twist when you do finally set the car on the ground. If your bushings remain twisted all the time when driving, they will wear out and tear quite quickly.

This is the main reason most peoples suspension goes to **** after they lower their car. It is a very important step (and the most overlooked) to reset all the bushings in the suspension for the new ride height....

On Integras, you must reset all the bushings except the rear trailing arm bushing and the inside rear upper control arm bushings. These four bushings must be removed and "clocked" and reinstalled in order to relieve any twist.

Jimmy

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the info.. So does this go for the front lower control arms anytime you have to remove those bolts..

I Might sound stupid, but you know I'm still learning.. how the hell do you tighten those bolts if the car is on the ground? Lol sorry.

Dave-ROR

I believe that the Mugen comes with the bracket, which is what the guy you replied to said.

Dave-ROR

Lower onto ramps, or jack up the control arm to it's normal location if the car was on the ground.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

I just put the car on the ground and reach underneath with my torque wrench. I have a 1/2" torque wrench that is the same size as a regular ratchet.

There are a couple bolts that are difficult to get to. You will need to use a regular open end wrench for them and simply guess at the torque. No biggie. Also, the upper control arms are extremely difficult. with the car on the ground. Jacking up the LCA until the car lifts up (with the wheel off) is easiest.