velisma

Well, I just swapped in a JDM GSR engine into my hatch and swapped out the OEM rad for a brand-new Dual Core Mishimoto unit. While filling up the radiator with fresh anti-freeze and purging the system, I noticed brownish droplets coming to the surface. I had the laptop hooked up to the ECU (S300) and on the way home it was starting to overheat to about 220-224 degrees. Also the oil light was coming on and off and kinda' flickering. I've heard that it could be a blown head gasket, cracked head, or warped head. The weird thing is though, is that I just changed the oil today and there didn't seem to be any coolant mixed in w/ the oil (aka chocolate milk). It was just straight up black. Any insight guys?

94 ls-r

Put a actual gauge on to see the pressure. It can leak oil into coolant without coolant in oil.

velisma

an oil pressure gauge or do a compression check?

EHondaJDM

Leakdown test

2LEM1

iTrader: (1)

94 ls-r

If the oil ight is coming on you need to check the pressure too.

fv8s

Check oil pressure, pressure test the cooling system and perform a compression test

94 ls-r

After you do coolant pressure test make sure there is no water in cylinders cause it can hydro lock and bend a rod

fv8s

EHondaJDM

But a leakdown test will point him in the right direction. There could be a few reasons his oil light is on


OP when you changed the oil did you pull the pan by any chance?

Mattb16teg

Get a radiator pressure tester and do a compression and/or leakdown test. However leak down test is impossible to do without a compressor but at least you can start with the first 2 I mentioned.
Also just pop off the rad cap and start the car. If coolant comes shooting out you have a leak in the HG.

Also the droplets you saw, depending on what exactly they looked like COULD be fine, although it is tough to say. It's normal to see small black pieces in the coolant from time to time due to build up and breakdown of the rubber hoses.

velisma

Unfortunately, no I didn't

I also seriously doubt it is a bad radiator and cap because I literally pulled it out of the box and put it straight into the car when we swapped the engine. There were also no black pieces in the coolant. It was brown liquid droplets and more kept coming to the surface. Maybe this is an opportunity to switch over to a Cometic head gasket and ARP headstuds, provided that this car is going to be getting boosted... hmmm...

Mattb16teg

Don't go making assumptions that because you pulled something out of an unopened box that it should work, that's your first mistake.
Pics would help, for trying to guess what you are seeing in the coolant.

EHondaJDM

Id upgrade the whole coolant system in the process just to avoid any unknown problems and I heard heat is a big issue with boost

velisma

I am off this weekend, as I work A LOT, and I will take some good pictures if the weather permits (forecast is 70's tmrw). When I took the pic in the original post I was on my lunch break and only had 15mins. w/ my phone camera to get back to work. Better camera next time around...

velisma

Stock rad did just fine on my bone stock B16 mated to a T3/T4 57trim pushing 10psi. I plan to push only 10psi w/ same-ish turbo on the new set-up but w/ a much cleaner install and nicer parts this go round. One of those parts being this Mishimoto I picked up.

velisma

Well, did a few things on the car this weekend and found out a bit more info...

1) Drained coolant
2) Flushed Radiator
3) Flushed Engine
4) Cleaned out reservoir tank
5) Replace old stock thermo w/ new cooler running Mishimoto unit
6) Refilled & Purge fresh coolant
7) Did a compression check

So, while draining the coolant I found out that there was dirt in it. It was almost like a fine clay like dirt. Same thing while flushing the engine as well. Did a compression check too and these were the results...

Cylinder 1: 220
Cylinder 2: 220
Cylinder 3: 230
Cylinder 4: 230

Started the car, got it up to operating temperature and did not over heat at all and no oil in coolant either. Long day... WHEW!!!

fv8s

Those Compression numbers are a bit off. You may have a bad HG between CYL #1+2 causing the oil and coolant to mix.

velisma

What should stock JDM GSR compression numbers be? I thought if you were within 20psi from cylinder to cylinder then the engine was still within the service limits according to Honda...??? Either way, I'm going to be replacing the old HG w/ a Cometic Head Gasket and installing ARP headstuds as well for some insurance on this build :D

fv8s

20 psi between each cylinder seems a bit extreme to me

fcm

B18C1/B18C5 compression....
Normal = 270psi
Min. = 140psi
Max. diff. = 28psi

Your compression is down a little, but well within limits.

New HG and APR studs sure can't hurt. 94

fv8s

Yes, I would replace the head gasket in the future.

EHondaJDM

I say it was just a lil rust or something floating up from the get-go

False alarm

velisma

I'm going to redo the compression test again and possibly follow up w/ a leak down as well because my battery was starting to give during it so I couldn't do the suggested 5-7 cranks per cylinder. I've never done a leak down test but I do have a compressor here at the house I can use...

Is 220-230psi considered bad results since that is about a 15% loss over stock? and will that hold up on boost? My old B16 was damn close to stock numbers and took it like a champ.

danthemang3

as FCM said you're well within limits, no worries man.