Erik_Pb_Foot

I've got 129,000 and counting miles on my engine... to start out...

I always use Amsoil 0w-30 synthetic until my last oil change when I couldn't get my hands on any... I am currently running Mobil 1 0w-30 synthetic.

Today my oil light came on after I took off at a light racing the engine. I got nervous so I kept it under 2,500 RPMs all the way to AutoZone. I pulled in and as I did I heard a knocking when I accelerated through traffic into the lot... I revved to about 4,000 RPMs. I checked the oil and it wasn't registering on the dipstick so I bought two quarts. I poured one, still didn't register... poured the other, came up to the 1 quart low mark on the dipstick. Bought and poured another quart... oil is full. Started the car and it knocked and then it just purred @ idle for about 5 mins. I left to drive home and it still makes the knocking noise, though less quieter, at about 3,000 RPMs or so... 3,500 some times. It's not as loud though, so....

So what did I break? And I thought the oil light would come on when I was one quart low. Please help me out.. I'm going to take it to the dealership since I don't want to drive it 45 mins to my mechanic unless I hear someone tell me that it's going to be fine.

I'm pretty confident I didn't throw a rod since it only does it above 3,000 - 3,500 RPM's. Thanks
-Erik

Mr. Softee

i've been as much as 2 1/2 quarts low... check oil light didnt come on.

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

Why are you using 0w30? Most engines would leak that stuff right out. Check the plugs to see if any oil is on them. Is there any smoke coming out of the tailpipe when drivin and/or idling?

Erik_Pb_Foot

I'm using 0w-30 since just because of the great things i've heard about the amsoil 0w-30.... i assumed since the amsoil was great the mobil would suffice and do well until i could order more amsoil.

i will check the plugs tomorrow am. what should i look for? my friend was behind me when i took of earlier today and he said their was a puff of black smoke when i hit 2nd gear and a small puff @ 3rd gear. I supposed this is normal. Remember, I don't have VTEC.

Can anyone help me anymore? Thanks

Erik_Pb_Foot

someone?

Erik_Pb_Foot

Thanks Teken, just one question... dino oil? I'm clueless what you mean, sorry.

Would you suggest I get away from synthetic for my next oil change (which will probably be tomorrow)? I'm figuring I'll give Jiffy Lube a try with my car for once in its life unless you think I should use something more specific.

Thanks

Regular Series

Dino oil: Plain ol' cheep regular oil. Also referred to as dino juice.


[Modified by risingson77, 12:35 AM 1/16/2002]

Erik_Pb_Foot

Thanks a lot... Jiffy Lube will serve me for the first time today.

jteasy

I had the same thing happen to me, I spun a rod bearing,(expensive)! Drop your oil pan and look for copper like metal shavings, I had quite a bit of metal down there and it toasted three rod bearings and the crank was destroyed. It could maybe be a bent valve, but unlikely. Sorry.

Regular Series

EEEEEEEK! Not Jiffy Lube!

Web_Head

0w-30 oil is not enough protection for your engine. You should be using 10w-30 or at the least 5w-30. I don't know where people get the idea of putting that 0w-30 crap in their engines.

I switched to sythetic about 20-25k ago and it fixed my oil consumption problem. It wasn't really a problem, I just needed a quart 2k after oil changes. Currently, I am 4k past my last oil change and I still don't need to add oil. I'm now changing oil every 6k instead of 3k since I am using sythetic. The manual says 7.5k between changes.

91DA9

Thats what I was thinking. If you spun the rod bearing then it will get worse as you drive it until it eventually makes the noise at idle and then you are really screwed! Either way if you have spun a rod bearing you will need

a) a new rod bearing. (obviously)
b) a new crank
c) maybe a new connecting rod (depending on the damage)

This happened to my '84 Toyota Cressida and I had the exact same symptoms as you. The only reason it happened was because I slid my car off the road and bent the oil pan which in turn bent the oil sump and lowered oil pressure!

VaporTrail

You have spun a rod bearing, most likely. You will need a new crank, possibly a new rod, and new bearings. This might be a great time to put in those forged internals you've always dreamed about At this point, you could drive it to your mechanic. It's already as bad as it's going to get - if you drive it gently. If you beat on it, you could toss a rod through the block.

Just a FYI, when the low oil light comes on, that means you have 0 pressure. None. No oil is circulating through the system. This is a very dangerous condition, and is what caused your failure. Good luck with your rebuild.

MachAF

If your burning oil, you should switch to 10w30. I dunno how cold it gets in NC and all. You shouldn't be running anything less than 5w30 though.

Hapa DC5

oil doesn't start burning untill it changes color, the thinner the oil more it has a chance of leaking out lol durrr. but with 129k or whatever i'd try full synthetic of 530 or 1030. and what is wrong with jiffy lube?? i'm a crew leader there. but you most likely spun a bearing.

Rtzx9r

I did the EXACT same thing when I had my 91 TT Z. Only thing is I was just driving, and then all of a sudden, it just started knocking. I pulled right over, got 3 qts at sears of mobil 1, and restarted it. Mine then knocked right at 3500 rpm like a switch was flicked. I sold the pig.

Lesson: 91 twin turbo Z. 55,000 miles. new timing belt, cam seals, new turbos, and it was a P.O.S. Leaked oil from ???? dealer could not fix it. I could not fix it. Thats why Pissan does not make them anymore. NEVER BUY NISSAN (but it was HELLA fast!!)

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

Isn't the Fairlady Z still sold in Japan? Just like the Supra and RX-7 are still sold in Japan.