GSRmionky

WOW, this is awesome. My car rescently started having the up/down idle problem. I took the FITV off, and low and behold, the valve was just shaking around inside. I tightened the valve all the down, reinstalled the FITV, and problem solved. On a side note, you may need to find a bolt to put in one of the hoses to plug it so coolant doesn't run out everywhere while you have the FITV out. I didn't realize the coolant would continue to flow the entire time, but was able to hook the hose high enough to stop the flow of coolant. Again, thanks a million for this tech tip.

HateMyPrelude

I have the same problem with my H22A1. Replaced the IACV first thing with sero change so I got a refund $300.....I needed that.

Last night followed this write up. My FITV was only mildly dirty and the ring was not loose.

With the plastic ring screwed all the way down should air be able to pass through? I can blow lightly in the back port of the plunger and feel it on the front.

Today I Blocked off the IACV and turned the idle screw all the way in. It DID reduce the idle AND the surge RANGE but it still surges up to 2k.

Checked vac lines and black box. all seem good. what the hell?

HateMyPrelude

Check your idle screw on top of the throttle body. back it out to raise idle.

gs-R_swap

hhmmmmm..... i have a 1998 gsr and i have an fitv, are you sure 96 andf older have it only?

spacetech

I cleaned my IACV and this fixed the fluctuating but it still idles a bit low - around 600. Would cleaning the FITV fix this or should I just adjust the idle screw?

jdmsoljah

help

SHG_Claudio

If it doesnt fluctuate then just turn the idle screw.

kulo

when i dab the throttle to about 3k
it drops down to 1.5k rpm for like 1 second
then drops back to the normal 900rpm idle

what could be the problem?
i think its my tb cable

ryanhauk

worked great on my b16. great write up. thanks a million.

SHG_Claudio

Any tips on how to get the bolt to come loose? The first 3 10mm bolts are frozen solid in there lol. I've been using PB blaster everyday, just gotta keep going a few more days. Any other ideas?Keep in mind 1 bolt is slightly stripped

andrewsc33

so i was out messin with the car again.... i added just a little coolant.. i don't think that was the problem..i tried plugging the holes in the tb like people said to see if it corrects the idle and it didn't... i took the o2 sensor out and cleaned the **** out of it and it doesn't look too bad either. but when i sprayed tb cleaner in when it was runnin it corrected the idle for a slight second and went back to the lumpy idle

bennersj

I found this thread while searching on yahoo. My issue is when the car starts it is idle at almost 2k then once it warms up the idle bounce between 1000 and 1800 BUT only when in nuetral or park. when in gear everything is happy and normal. I tried cleaning the FITV and that is what upped my idle when the car first starts. Like others mentioned when I cover the small port in the throttle body it idles ok. Any other suggestions.

I almost forgot it is a 94 Accord with the v-tech, stock set up.

Thanks

lilhatch95

I had the FITV off the car and I tried to take off the 2 8mm bolts with wd40 and a 8m socket and ratchet but broke both heads off..

marmo_801

i have a 2000 si i replaced the iacv because cleaning it was not working. the car still has idle problems, in the morning its idle is about 2000 when i drive it around it drops to 1300 then some times at a stop it bounces back and forth from 1300-1900. then may be it goes back down to 800. my car is acting crazy......... any help.

marmo_801

one more thing the check light still came on after i changed the iacv with the same code p0505.

tskw914

Hi,
I have a 93 Accord w/ 109k on it, the idle is High, over 2k when cold then fine when warm. It also surges up and down when cold. I cleaned the IACV & the FITV and bled the coolant, the problem still exists. anything else anyone can suggest?

kuags27

I have to try this! My 94 civic LX the idle is been acting up from 1000-1500rpm, fluctuating while park n neutral when its warm n normal temp. Cold start is fine. I just cleaned the TB twice including the two holes for the IAC n FITV. But I will remove the FITV out of the TB, then clean it up after the turkey day.. Thanks!

TRIGA

yo bump for some answeres me like the restg of the people above me used this write up. excellent write up. But the problem still remains 1000 to 1500 rpms in neutral i dont know what it is i cleaned the iacv fitv tb replkaced a fuel hose and still same crap when i floor it and let off the gas i get a fuel smell when the revs are bouncing please help

KILLAB17VTEC

mine was acting up too.first it was the iacv.i replace it with a new one.like 4 month later i got the bouncin idle again.this time it was the fast idle.took it apart a clean them up..then it was all good now.

jeff-abalone

I just clean FITV this morning as well. Hopefully, will solve my problem as well.... Btw, just let people know. You better remove the whole throttle body, then unscrew that 3 bolts on FITV... That will make more easy. At that time, recommend to clean the TB at the same time.

UrbanVibe

I have a b16 and can't find whats causing the high idle (1800 when hot), im going to change the sensors, but idling that high could be more than one problem? I also can't get the engine light to turn off. Thanks

kuags27

Update on the FITV clean-up. This afternoon I took off the FITV is was fine till I get to the (2) 8mm Bolt. (1) bolt head came-off thread still in the assembly and the other (1) bolt came off but the thread got loose so its loose thread. I cleaned the entire assmy now. I have to buy a bolt remover and re-thread both hole hopefully this will work. I have to also but a new bolts. Any suggestion. re-threading this alum assmy might be risky. What do you think? should I just buy a new one which is costly around $50 -$91 dollars in Majestichonda.com? If I re-thread the to hole I might have to go 9mm or 5/16 thread. Need some advice.

kuags27

lilhatch95: what did you do? cuz I happen to me too. Did you remove the old bolt, by using the retractor drill bit? I have to get another retractor drill bit cant find my old one. OR did you buy a new assy from honda? or did you go to the junk yard and get the throttle body and replace the used one?

kuags27

Update:12-5-09
I re-thread the loose hole and cant remove the broken bolt. I end up installing it back to TB with (1) 8mm bolt cover. It start normally high RPM/ idle. when down to 1000rpm then drove it around til it warm and fan start run. park it then suddenly it fluctuating still. Now the IACV n FITV are cleaned up. What is next the Temp sensor below the distributor. I think that the one thats make it fluctuate like this coz, when I unplug it the rpm went up to 1200 rpm then it stay there and engine light when on. Shutoff the engine re-start is engine light off, it when back again to fluctuate from 800-1200 rpm twice then gradually stays to 1000RPM. I'll let you know what will be the update.

APCXxstovetopxX

nice write up i might have to give this a shot