Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

Well after laying around on this since 2015 I'm finally doing something. Can you guys tell me if anything looks off? I do not plan to take the block or head to the machine shop. Will just use gasoline and a blue plastic Scotch-Brite non-scratch scour pads to clean off any left over gasket. Plan to use ARP head studs, Honda replacement gasket, and will copper spray both sides.

Lot of trash in the cylinders...? Opinions and ideas are welcome











Stuff in the cylinder is sand and small particles from outside. Maybe my Autozone filter wasn't cutting it?

Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

Motor had 65,000 miles when I got it and car has always been 100% stock until I got it. I mainly baby it around town 2,000-3,000rpms. It now has 115,000 miles and the timing belt was replaced at 30,000 miles. So only thing we are currently doing to the motor is ARP head studs, new timing belt, new water pump, tensioner, and oil pump. Getting it ready for 360whp stock on a GT3076r.













While inspecting the timing belt when I got the car I removed and replaced the valve cover and the seals leaked around the passenger side. That is 7 years worth of oil leak and is why the outside is so dirty. My bad guys...

Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

Here's some better pictures. Really contemplating just removing the motor, cleaning it, working on it outside of the engine bay, and putting it back...












Intake runners are covered in a sticky oily mixture. Consistency of thick molasses













Can this screen be removed, cleaned, and reused? Or do I need to buy a new one?

highschooler

I’m glad you’re starting a build.
For the debris in the cylinders, you could try to shop vacuum as much of it out as you can. Also shop vacuum near the sides of the engine so that debris doesn’t get stuck in the engine. When I just did a spark plug change on my vehicle, a bunch of debris got caught in the spark plug holes, so I shop vacuumed it out, then ran a few bottles of Seafoam. Your cylinders look ok, smooth. There’s lots of carbon build up on top of the pistons which is normal. Once you put the engine back together, you could use that Seafoam engine cleaner, maybe a few bottles…
But 360whp is a lot on a stock engine, as discussed on another thread. Hopefully it holds up to the power. I’m interested to see how long it lasts.

highschooler

The engine itself doesn’t look to bad. I don’t think it’s worth taking out just to clean it. The intake manifold, however, could be stripped and professionally cleaned. With so much build up in it, I would take the intake manifold to a machine shop and spend the $50 on having them clean it, then put a new intake manifold gasket of course.

B00STD

I would just take it to the diy car wash and use their pressure washer wand to clean the engine off. Maybe cover the distributor with a plastic bag first / leave motor running, then spray engine degreaser on it and let it soak for a few minutes then pressure wash it off.

B00STD

you can, or replace for like $20. The rubber tends to get hard like plastic and may leak air preventing VTEC to kick in. You could probably remove it, clean it, and put a VERY THIN amount of rtv on both sides to seal it in. Be careful though, if you put too much the rtv will run out and get into the screen and oil passageways preventing vtec. Replacing for $20 is probably the best safe bet, it can always be used for another 10yrs+ so it’s worth it

Chrisfrom1986

iTrader: (1)

Thats the IACV and it's non vtec b18b1

JRCivic1

Heheheh... you are killing me smalls.

Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

So here's where we are today: Got the axles out of the car, well 95% of the axles anyways. Part of the driver's side is still in. Not sure yet what I'm going to do with the axles.






Engine in it's current state. I think everything is about stripped off it.

highschooler

That axel looks crazy. Are you able to get the rest of the axel out, or is it stuck? Good thing you removed that…

B00STD

Pull motor then remove rest of axle.

Or…..

I had the same thing happen to a Prius, those are the worst! I ended up welding chain to the axle, and pulling it out by connecting the other side of the chain to my wife’s SUV and pulling forward. It worked! Nothing else would work..

Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

Here we are today. Had a week of downtime but back on track...

It honestly didn't make sense to do all of this with the motor inside the car. During the 4th of July sales at Harbor Freight I got one of their 1 ton engine hoists for 20% off.












Any advice on getting the axle out? I haven't looked into it too much yet. Will a pry bar with the engine out be enough? Advice here would be great, if not I'll figure it out tomorrow.







I don't need to remove the shifter arm do I? Trying to avoid the bitch pin.







Hopefully it starts really rolling at this point...Tomorrow is ripping everything apart and cleaning day. Stay tuned...

highschooler

For the axel you can just leave the intermediate shaft in there and it shouldn’t get in the way. But for the driver’s side axle, yeah just use a pry bar…
You don’t absolutely have to remove the shift linkage, but it gets in the way when attached. So I always remove the shift linkage pin with punches. It takes like 5-10 minutes Here’s my punch set:



Good thing you’re taking the engine and transmission out because you’ll need a new clutch anyways. What type of clutch are you going to use? Also, have you already bought the head gasket? If not, there’s the JE Pro Seal one. They are supposedly good: https://www.speedfactoryracing.net/c...r-head-gaskets

Chrisfrom1986

iTrader: (1)

Unbolt the intermediate shaft from the block and just pull it out. Never use a pry bar on the axles.

Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

Well I can assure you the passenger's side definitely had to use a pry bar. But this was removed by hand and easily. However we still have the issue of a torn boot and is more of the axle left in the car? Looks like I need to remove part from the below...

Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

I'm not ignoring you, your answers will be answered with tomorrow's update.

NVturbo

since you already removed the head, you could have just raised the front up high enough to remove the block and tranny WITHOUT an engine hoist. Good o' furniture dolly helps move it out of the engine bay. Yep...that's how I did mine, by myself without help or a hoist/cherry picker. Oh yeah...no damage or scratches either....

Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

Yea Justin was giving me that advice but I went ahead and took it from the top. I think the bottom would have been easier maybe but the top was pretty simple too.

But here is the question...With the head back on should I install the motor from the bottom or top?

NVturbo

Honda (along with many other car manufacturers) installed the engine from bottom up at the factory. Easier and less chances of damaging parts/engine bay.

Yes, you can still install it from the bottom up with the head on. This can be done 1 or 2 ways.
1. raise the car up on each side (front pinch welds) with 2 reliable floor jacks
2. raise the car up using a car lift.

Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

So things got kinda out of hand.

First off here is the clutch and flywheel that came out. Clutch seemed to have life still on it, but I'm pretty easy on clutches. Throw out bearing was trash though.










Started taking the front of the motor off.




Then the oil pan







Oil pump





So here's where things kinda went sideways. Here's my logic...

If I'm going to change the clutch, flywheel, head studs, and oil pan I might as well pull the motor.

If I'm going to pull the motor I might as well take it down.













And I'm going to really really be tedious when it comes to putting this motor back together so I figured my old tools wouldn't be sufficient so I had to get some new ones...








And to answer Highschooler up top, this is replacing the old clutch and flywheel.








Going to run it by the machine shop tomorrow or the next day and get it bored and honed. Will be using Clevite standard P series bearings and thrush washers.

LightningTeg

Finally lol. Looks good.

Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. Yea, popping the rod bolts off and removing them was the "point of no return".

Gonna be hard to drive her to work now!






I need to figure out this whole welding thing. I have a welder but have never fired it up or anything. Now would be a good time to do the half size radiator install.

LightningTeg

I ended up just cutting the support off and using self tappers to move it where needed for the half size. Obviously would have welded if I had it at the time.

highschooler

I’m glad you are doing an engine rebuild for 360whp. Trying to stay stock would have been risky. The Eagle rods and CP pistons are a good choice at this point- very smart move.
Your crankshaft looks to be in great shape. No scrapes or anything.
The clutch seems good, maybe a little on the “race” side of things, but it should be alright on the street since it’s sprung, it just says it might have more harsh engagement, which is OK.