ls joker

Update.....

for all the old followers,... wireworx harness came in. And installed really easy. Couple months after that, i decided to do some upgrades. My man greg, from goautoworks, took care of my needs on my order. Since i was still having a high injector duty cycle, i decided to upgrade the fuel pump to an aeromotive stealth 340 pump. When installing it i used the ring and lug method to tie back into the fuel pump wires ran from the relay. Eventually, i may upgrade to -6 lines and fittings for e85. But, ill settle on this for now.





from there i started removing the turbo and downpipe for the new parts. I decided to go to battle with the turbonetics tnx 30-60 turbo with the .65a/r vband turbine housing. Pics below to show some of the changes on their new development units. Youll notice the turbine wheel is thinner than the f1 wheels at the center. And it does not have the solid flat base of the blades like the efr turbine wheels. Its more like garrets g series wheels(turbine blade base).





pics of the compressor profile. Which appears to the naked eye to have a somewhat similar angle as my tga 5857 turbo






now comparisons for the tga 5857 turbo(left) and tnx 30-60 turbo(right)





next are some of the changes to the chra. I had options for what type of drain setup i wanted to go with. I used to use the black afi fitting. I went with the one installed. And put in a npt to jic fitting like shown

ls joker

The fitting on the bottom to the left actually comes with the turbo. From there i started on water lines and fittings to the block, turbo, and radiator. The fitting on the block was actually to big of a hex. It was hitting the engine webbing. So from there i ordered and installed b&r fittings block adapter fitting.




now onto the downpipe. Since i was goin from four bolt to vband, this required alittle bit work and fab.

didnt take pics of the work after it fabbed up for vband. But its vband ready, recoated, and installed back onto the turbo.

for shitz and giggles since i was getting restless, i decided to put my snails together. Sold the garret 57trim couple years ago. So it wouldve been four there.



thats it for now. Pickin up fluids saturday. Then itll be ready for startup. Still waiting on greg, for some pretty sweet data from turbonetics on the tnx series also.

Autoworks

Looks good sir

ls joker

Had a nice long detailed post on how the engine let go from maxing fuel pump pressure relief valve. Got xeleted somehow in the edit.

Oh well















Golden eagle 84mm b16 sleeves
Traum pistons 84mm 10.8 compression
.65ar changed to .85 ar turbine housing



Update after breakin miles and tuning

justYncredible

iTrader: (1)

nice! i didnt know golden eagle made pistons

Txdragon

X2

Chance EG

News to me as well, very interesting. They look good.

ls joker

As far as i know, golden eagle does not manufactor pistons. The pistons, are traum pistons. I believe the salesman told me the owner of traum is the son of the owner of arias pistons. Maybe a former employee, i dont remember honestly. I just know alot of the heavy hitters ive contacted after april, said traum was their go too source for pistons. Two different tuners said they specifically used traum and saenz now. No one else.

I contacted traum directly for the important piston specs. And they sent me all the info i didnt get from golden eagle. So im assming traum or golden eagle laser eteched the info and part number on the top.

ls joker

Update


Got about 150 breakin miles. Car ran good. Compression test yielded 240psi cold. After the 150 miles compression was 245psi. Got on the dyno today. Got up to 12psi. 12psi made about 300whp on the mustang dyno. Dyno day didnt go good.

First the heater core hose off the intake manifold ripped and was dumping coolant. Then a harness pigtail issues on cylinder one coil. Then tps clocking issues. THEN... the crank pulley key ******* broke into pieces after pull on decel near idle. With the fluidamper pulley just wobbling the crank at idle. Went to honda got new keys, got everything and the belts put back together. There didnt appear like any real damaged. Theres wasnt any noises or rod knocking after startup again. Start tuning again, were getting locked out from the clutch. I believe the pressure plate bolts backed out from whatever caused the crank pulley key to break. Also, didnt appear to be any crank walk. That may have caused the bolts to back out, if thats the case here. Finally after all that, i notice my sperrys were all cuffed up and greasey from working on the dyno laying on the floor.

So as of now, the tranny has to come back off. To inspect the clutch and flywheel. Then possibly torque everything down, if i dont need a new clutch. There wasnt any slipping. So im hoping they just back out. Ive had an issue like this in the past where i thought my clutch was done. Turned out, the pressure plate bolts backed out.

turboLScrx

Sorry to hear about your luck man.... sounds like a cluster of a day, Hope things smooth on out for ya

Txdragon

Dammit man! I had a few bolt torque issues on my first build. Nothing major like this, but, it prompted me to torque it all down the second time around. Lol.
Here's to hoping your solution be simple!

ls joker

Im really think they just back out. Years ago when it happened, i couldnt even shift. It up and downshifts fine. Just fights me on first and reverse. For whatever reason i thought the clutch bolts were ARPs like the flywheel bolts. Nope theyre just 12pt oem. So theyre likely meant to be torqued once. The current pressure plate bolts has been 2 or 3 times in the last five years. So im gona order some new bolts, get some new loctite(i think its expired), and rip the tranny off again. Atleast if it works out, ill be able to get some more breakin miles at 12psi.

Also ordering the ktuned slave cylinder. For easy of bleeding.

Side note, the car was noticeably more responsive with the difference in bore and compression just off of wastegate. Compare to prior to the sleeves splitting. And thats with the bigger turbine housing.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

The pressure plate to flywheel bolts are only torqued to 19 ft-lb, if I remember correct, so I don't think they have a limit to how many times they can be used. Even though it's a 10mm head, the bolt is actually an M8 I think (most 10mm bolts are M6).

Sorry to hear you've been having such problems with it lately, and hope you get it back up and running soon.

maxwellmercer

This is also my first time of these being "torqued once and done." I don't agree with that. I've reused them so many times on tens of setups, red loctite is the business!

ls joker

Thanks guys. Im gona startntearing it down tomorrow or friday. Wrapping it up saturday unless theres a major issue somewhere.

ls joker

Yea 20ft lbs isnt a whole lot of pressure. And like i said this happened years ago the reason why i ordered this clutch kit that one there now using blue loctite. Which was prolly expired at that point. The amount of force that accured to break the crank pulley key, prolly is what cause everything to break loose. I really want to red loctite the new bolts. But dont want to have to torch the bolts just to remove them. Although im getting fed up with this.

ls joker

Found the culprit out. Pressure plate bolts werent backed out. But it didnt exactly take 20ft lbs to break them loose. Pull the pressure plate off to make sure the springs are still on the clutch and yes they were still intact. Pull the clutch off and four of the flywheel bolts backed out. Like shown below. Had me fricking out when i seen the pressure plate bolts werent what i thought. Hoping the trans wasnt fucked. I really dont know what derived from what. End the end, i got really lucky. This couldve been really bad. Flywheel thru the bellhousing or firewall bad.

So as of now, gona pull the flywheel. Inspect the crank. Tap the one hole to get any burrs out. Order new ARP flywheel bolts and the ktuned slave cylinder. Hopefully having it back on the road by next weekend. To enjoy a boring 12psi lol

Txdragon

Looks like that bolt head got whittled down a bit. I've seen the aftermath of a flywheel ring gear separating at 9k rpm.. I couldn't imagine a whole flywheel letting loose..

ls joker

Yes. I dont think i can take any more issues with the car. Atleast this year. I knew horsepower broke **** but damn. Its been a long year of craziness with this car. Building an s2000 to do wheelies is out of the window. Ive been building this car for the last year to start competitive racing, like actually drag strip roll racing event, but damn.

Although, it has been very much fun doing back to back with different turbos. Id like to continue doing that. Bout ready to jump back to garrett, maybe even comp turbo.

maxwellmercer

Again, red loctite is your friend!!

ls joker

The car has been back together for awhile. With no problem lol. I actually finally decided to start tuning it myself. Ive had an pretty good ideal on what to do for a couple years now. Researching more and more. First map i loaded up needed a good amount of fuel taking out. I wanted to make sure there was plently of fuel there, since i was actually starting the high speed ignition tables. For the most part, it ran good. Just really rich in boost. 10 parts to 5 rich.

here is the high speed table with a few corrections after this was taken




from there, i edited by removing alot of fuel. But havent been able to do a test run yet

Txdragon

Ignition looks nice and smooth. Maybe a touch aggressive, but smooth.

ls joker

Aggressive lol, thanks though.

My friends who actually does engine tuning, looked at it. And said the same thing lol. Then i told him, i was goin by the whole "retard 1 degree per psi". Even besides that, i did -2 degrees, in some places -2.5 degrees. Then he said thats kinda a false statement. Because it only works sometimes. Without being on the dyno, i have no way to dial in the timing. I just wanted to get started and pretty close. Just punching the inputs into the high speed ignition took hours to get it that straight. Which im sure its gona need to get reworked at some point. Cause no car has flat or almost straight ignition. Last nite the high speed fuel map took even longer. Tryin to get the rite amount of fuel. But still being slightly rich. And i think my oem TPS is goin out. Everytime i connect to s300, theTPS will only read a certain percent. Ill have to unplug it, then plug it back in.

edit... i dont plan on spending time in the 25-30psi range. So i kinda just said meh on those columns

Txdragon

Pulling 1 degree per lb of boost is about standard. It's a recommended starting point. Timing done ONLY on a dyno is a semi-false statement. On a dyno makes it easier to actually see where you stop making power while advancing. Then, of course, once you find the magic number, you back it off a degree or 2 for safety. Timing can be done without a dyno, it's just a guessing game though and you'll be going by the seat of your pants. When you feel your stomach touch your spine, you've found the sweet spot.. Anywho.. Your high cam timing will be linear. Nice and smooth. And yes, it took hours to get right. Several logs and lots of adjustments. Mine below took me the better part of 2 days and about 18 logs. I ended up at 16.75° 6500rpm 11.15 AFR wot 3rd gear at 22psi. When I pull that through 7k and quick shift to 4th, I'm still in boost at that time and lose traction when floored. Lol!

ls joker

Yea that map looks smooth. That neptune high speed map thru me off for a second. I was thinkin why the **** is startinv 1k or whatnot.

unfournately, sounds like were rain/snow mix soon. So my datalogging mite get put on hold. Thought about downloading that virtual dyno thing for highway pulls. I thought lightning teg used it many moons ago or maybe wantboost.

and... if im goin to be tuning it myself, i need to finally install and wire the wideband to the s300 boards. So it can log the AFRs aswell. I have the pigtail but never looked up any information on it. We always just used the dyno sniffer.


anybody have any reviews on the onmipower TPS sensors.