'

not an EG but oh well, had to represent yo!

cubish

heres some pics of my old car

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

not an eg, but the intercooler is pretty big, 22x10.5x3 core, 36" from tip to tip.
and yes i know my bomex needs to be painted and i know my fmic is crooked, it isnt mounted yet, i was just doing that to trim the front bumper

second edition

its not a big intercooler(jrc 6"),but the bumpers cut none the less

this si everything i had to cut out


cubish...your **** is the hotness.i love how the hole you cut is the same shape as the factory opening only larger

Redwidow

I got a little creative. I used the bumper brace behind the bumper and a SF2 bumper (fit with a little trim on lower lip) could not find a pic of it on car. I will find one and post it later... Mine is is sturdy as heck only 27"x10"x3" not that big as others.







if you want me to show all the steps how i done it I can do a post for you. It sits flush with the front brace..

BoostedEG6

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SpdFrk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Holy **** thats big, how much power are u planing on making?</TD></TR></TABLE>

when I get the new bottom end finished around about 750+whp

EK FLY

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrbsponge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


heres mine</TD></TR></TABLE>

this his about how is mine going to look on my car , hey mrbsponge can u post some mre pics plz , and if i'am not right that's a obx intercooler right ?

mrbsponge

heres a quiclie of it with the old turbo.

its actually not an OBX, that model is more of a "cast" looking unit with bar and plate and mine is tube and fin. it is from street imports on here, not a bad cooler for the price, and good IATs too

FortunateFool.

turncoat

I am also in this situation - I am quite sure I am removing the top rad support corner braces, and the front half of the lower support (see arrows). The intercooler should move back about 3" further than this picture. I just want a deeper fit, and it would be nice if air had a chance to see the top of the intercooler. I'll be doing some bracing from behind to compensate...a traction bar support to go behind/under the rad will add support too.

EK FLY

bump for some more pics ....

one question ..

would it be good or bad to cut/trim my front subframe in order to fit the intercooler like Redwidow cutted on his car ? ... any frame twist can occur or would it be good to make some reeinforstmen on the frame

Redwidow

Ok i can't seem to find the best pic on the angle iron that was ran from one end to the other end. Then with the way my intercooler is mounted it was just as strong when mounted to the car there is no flexing or movement on the brace. but with your intercooler im not sure if your able to use this same method of mounting. Your tanks are either going to be on the bottom or flipped and be on the top...so maybe if you use those two holes that you have available on top you can ~cutted~ the bumper brace and ~drilled~ some holes in there and see if its braced well enough...but im not sure in your case...

here are some more pics where you can see the welded angle iron..

mike1114

iTrader: (1)

Here is 8" JRC on EG. I didn't have to cut the fog light holes but they were already cut when I got this bumper.

EK FLY

<FONT SIZE="6">this is what i mean guys</FONT>
any one have any idea how I can fit the dam ic on my tiny eg

JDMs1eeper

31" long X 11.75" tall X 3" thick w/ 3"endtanks



This is also another, OBX-r FMIC. Made a huge differnce over my old Johnnyracecar 6" FMIC

turncoat

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><FONT SIZE="6">this is what i mean guys</FONT>
any one have any idea how I can fit the dam ic on my tiny eg
</TD></TR></TABLE>

See my picture a couple posts up.

Yes, you and I have basically the same intercooler. 11.75" H x 30.25" long (23.5" core) x 3" thick. You can do two things:

1.) Mount it without removing any rad supports (not subframe! that is something else). You will have to have someone (muffler shop?) weld in brackets at the top and bottom rad support for the four bosses at the top and bottom of the intercooler. You will also have to cut out all of the plastic on the front bumper with a saw/cutoff tool/whatever, basically all of the non-painted black plastic to within 1" of the outside front of the bumper. This will fit, it will look like spongebob at the top of this page (the extra he cut off top is optional - although better cooling to the top of the intercooler, although I don't like the "shark" look).

2.) Get an air hammer and break off the welds to remove the parts of the rad support I showed in my post above. It's the top "corner" braces (upper arrow in picture) and the entire front half of the lower rad support. The IC can then sit a couple inches further back into the rad support, and you might have to switch to hood pins since the hood latch may no longer fit. You will need to do less bumper cutting than with #1 above, and I would definitely use a traction-bar style support between the front "tow hooks" to add back the rigidity you just removed. Might as well just go the extra mile and get the traction bars considering the WHP the intercooler can support... .

I am planning to do #2, so I can't speak about the rigidity, but the one-fab guy has taken out the ENTIRE front rad support and is using a custom traction bar setup, you should see the pics, it's pretty wild. This guy:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1171997

Maybe ask him.

JDMs1eeper

all i did was take 3 foot long tie straps (zip ties ) and straped each endtank to my radiator support. I'm not rocking my bumper support and Ive had a close incounter with a parking block that pushed my lower Radiator frame back like 3-4inches. so I have zero problems.

my tips is... run into something soid and use zip ties jk

turncoat

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM S1eeper &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...Ive had a close incounter with a parking block that pushed my lower Radiator frame back like 3-4inches. so I have zero problems.

my tips is... run into something soid and use zip ties jk</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL - I guess that's option #3.

I forgot to mention that you'll definitely lose your bumper support - this does not add any structural support (except in an accident, of course). And I'd have to argue that while the minor mods to the rad support I suggest in option #2 will lose rigidity, it would be more than made up for by welding a reasonably thick tube between the tow hook pads. Heck, you could even weld a tube between the tow hook pads themselves, geez, they are made from 1/4" steel and extend a bit below the rad mounts.

This is the kind of support I'm talking about - from another thread (sorry to the owner of this pic for using the link...). You can ignore the traction bars connecting to the lower wishbone.





See this thread for the rest of this guy's setup...https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1291692

eazycivic

Bump

I have the new 8" JRC FMIC mounting soon
will post pics soon

Jwbetley

lemme get my camera

CRXdan

Nice cars!

SlowPokeEg

Are we allowed to post pics of our JRC "Radiators"?

EK FLY

i gess so

yellowturbo

I prefer a clean simple look but who still efficient...



Greddy ( Trust ) bigger EG IC before having to cut the front safety beam.

How you like it ?

Jwbetley

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><FONT SIZE="6">this is what i mean guys</FONT>
any one have any idea how I can fit the dam ic on my tiny eg

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hey. When you find out, Lemme know LOL




I dont have much clearance with the wastegate either. This is gonna be a weekend project. I will post a small segment in this thread with pics of what I neede to cut out.