BoostedEgHatchFl

iTrader: (2)

[QUOTE=crvtectim;47833332]Nice, man! Was this with the new housing?


This was with an old school inline pro manifold and a old school sc34. It seems to chock up after vtec crossed over..... Mike thinks its the manifold turbo combo can flow enough up top. So Im going back to a 6162 with a mini ram manifold....

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

I tune my own vehicle. I have the intake temp sensor in the manifold on my blox intake and it always read rediculous high which in turn pulls timing and made for needing to make temp correction adjustments.

Switched it over to the charge pipe and now reads actual intake temp and is more responsive to temp changes because its not surrounded by heat soaked alumnium. Yes you will need to make temp correction adjustments but not actual tune adjustments from my experience

crvtectim

Wantboost, here's a link on exposing the actual temp sensor. Post #59 shows some good comparisons: http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/9064...s/page__st__50

Sorry to hear that, Topher.

Turbo-LS, thanks sir! That's what I've been wanting to know. I shot a text to my tuner about it yesterday, but haven't heard back from him yet.

The Shodan, where you at, bre? I assUmed (in Neva's voice :p ) you would've chimed in on page 1 lol! I'd like to know where the IAT sensor is on your time attack car.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

I think I will be doing the temp sensor MOD also. looks like it will increase responce. I will have to Log it at the track and compare to my older logs to see temp changes and responce times.

silverstreek81

so is this really something only needed for a street/strip car? do straight up race cars even still run an iat or do they elimiate it and just tune around not having one? would be interesting to get feedback from some of the BIG DAWGS of racing and tuning.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

you need an intake temp sensor to even run a fuel injected vehicle. No one takes it out of the system. there are just different system and different ways to do things

crvtectim

Hey I thought we were the BIG DAWGS.

I'm anxious to see your results, T-LS!

BoostedEgHatchFl

iTrader: (2)

crvtectim Whos your tuner?

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

yea i've seen that one, I have the gsr kind that bolts to the manifold runner for my current build, I also have the obd2 kind as well... I'm probably going to strip back the gsr kind and see what i can do

OneBadTurboCRV

I have mine in the charge piping, around 6" from the throttle body. Heat soak can be a b****!

crvtectim

That'd be Mr. Blake Barr, dawg! I think he goes by Q16 racer on this site. 98vtec on d2m and rice850. You might also try searching for BBmoto.net too.

I'm stoked you guys are gonna give this sensor mod a shot!

crvtectim

Double post because Mr. N3va snuck up on me. Ever tried the mod, sir?

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

UGH!
so i tried with my obd2 style sensor, the kind that co in the rubber grommet...
I had the entire junction exposed, no epoxy, etc... right as I got it done one of the wires broke off at the base of the sensor... it was perfect, no plastic, no epoxy covering the tip... I was gonna coat the wires from the base of the junction to the sensor boxy in silicone to support them.

oh well, time to find another sensor :/

Dc4LsTeG

iTrader: (7)

So I really want to do this. But im not to sure where the best place to mount it is since I have my water meth injection 6" from tb, any recommendations?

OneBadTurboCRV

I haven't tried it yet, but I would presume the best method would be to heat up the plastic first and then cut it away. This should help from accidently applying too much force to the wires.

If you are going to use Water/Meth, I personally would still want to see the temperature before the water. The water mixture could wreak havoc on the sensor if exposed like the mod suggests.

92redhatch

I bought the xenocron IAT relocate flange and got it welded into my charge pipe. I used an old IAT sensor that was broken to cover the hole in the intake runner. I noticed after a boost leak test that the xenocron flange leaks and the factory Honda intake runner hole leaks after about 20psi. So even though it has an Oring you need to put some gasket maker.
If I had to do it all over again I would've used a gm sensor

crvtectim

Ah bummer, man. Were you trying to remove the epoxy with a razor?

Great tip! I'm curious if there's anything we could soak the epoxied part of the sensor in to break it down and soften it up for easy removal without pulling a wantboast on it!

Great tip with the RTV! I use a light coat on everything now. The problem I have with the GM/Delco or T1 sensor is lacking the engine management to read it properly. From what I understand, you'll need a full standalone system instead of an ecu based system.

Dc4LsTeG

iTrader: (7)

Thanks i figured it would destroy the sensor, but i thought Id need it after the water injection so I can get the actual temp going into the engine with the injection. Wouldnt I want it after so its not reading a higher temp then whats really going into the engine or does it really matter? Or do i not have a choice because the injection being pretty close to my tb?

Charlie Moua

iTrader: (3)

anyone one make a SS bung vs. alum?

silverstreek81

my thoughts were if the newer obd2 cars had it in the intake pipe and there was no way to mount it in their IM,then how are those people mounting it on their IC piping? or even guys that had their IAT in the manifold, but switched to a manifold that didn't have the place for a IAT on the IM, where are they putting their IAT and how are they mounting it? are they all using the xenocron kit or making their own or just still mounting it in the IM and compensating for it in their tune?
i would think there would be more info about this, but a search turned up very little.

silverstreek81

see by looking at the xenocron flange, it looks flat and the IC pipes are round, so how well could this be mounted unless it was rounded to properly mate up to the rounded piping. unless i'm just not understanding how it works on the welding it to the pipe part.

i would think also, maybe it should be mounted like a wideband O2 sensor. would think you would for sure not want it mounted upside down so it wouldn't collect any condensation. but would straight up be best or maybe to the side so it's not sticking up too far and taking a change of hitting the hood?

EmminoDaGreat

I use an obd2 style sensor, which you can run a dye over (can't remember the size). Then I weld a bung into the charge pipe and thread it in... Works beautifully and never have to worry about it blowing out, or leaking boost.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

the plastic on the obd2 sensor is so thin and rigid that heating it would make it harder to get off. It took me all of 60 seconds with a fresh razor blade to get the grey plastic off the tip.

i got the epoxy off the tip with the same blade, maybe 5 minutes total of work... now I would probably try heating the epoxy to soften it to get it off the junction, but it literally just chipped off in large pieces with little pressure. the mistake I made was removing the plastic below the sesnor junction at the tip... If I would have left it alone then the wires wouldn't have weakened.

If I can find my obd1 style in the intake manifold sensor I'll try that one as well

v8killaz

my ? is iat after the turbo in the piping or at the intake charge of the turbo. right now my iat is just hanging ziptied to my harness

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

after, before the throttle body

there would be no way of getting an accurate IAT if it were before the turbo...

and why the hell aren't you using one? Im amazed your car doesn't run like **** since it wouldn't know the actual intake temp